Basic active subwoofer installation information.

Merton69

CarAudio.com Recruit
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Bristol
New here, so hello to All.
At the young age of 53 I have just bought myself my first car (bl*ody divorce!!).
I have recently bought an InPhase Active Subwoofer that will hook up to my Civic '09's factory Head Unit. Got to keep things cheap as court fees are ££££'s.
Anyway, I have been told that I need an IOC and saw an excellent one on Amazon (SCOSCHE LOC2SL Line-Out Converter with Bass Control) that includes a wire that will connect to the SW's power input that will switch it off and on the the car is switched off and on so it doesn't drain the battery.
Does this mean I don't have to run a power cable from the battery as the instructions suggest please?
Note: The instructions are on the understanding it is an aftermarket car stereo and not a factory head unit.
 

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I was thinking that most powered units have a built in LOC, but, whatever you do, don’t get the SOSCHE, it does not test clean at any level. The kicker Kicker KISLOC2 is a cleaner way to go, by far. It also does not require you to use the remote turn on from the HU. It generates the turn on voltage from the high level speaker inputs negating the need to use the HU. Here is the unit on Amazon.​

Amazon product ASIN B00I4EF1BC

Here is a YT vid that tells you what I’m talking about.



Just tap into a pair of speaker leads, run power to the powered sub, RCA’s from the LOC set your gains and you’re good to go.

Here is another one that gets great reviews

 
Thanks AnthonyO for the reply.

But I was told, earlier in the thread, I do not need a LOC, as it is a self powered SW?

I am getting more confused now.....sorry.

I just need to know what cable/port on the back of the HU do I connect the blue/white cable please?

Everything else appears to be sorted.

Thank you.
 
Without the wiring diagram I cannot be certain of the color associated with the head unit remote on or even if there is one on the HU. I assume there is and it usually the blue or blue/white wire. You can check this with a basic Multimeter. It will have no power when the ignition is off and will have power when the ignition is turned on.

The simplex method without even needing to remove the HU is to use an LOC. These are inexpensive, clean and simple to use. This takes the leads from any R/L speaker that you would normally use to connect to the eub anp and then you run an RCA cable from the LOC to the amp instead. It uses the L/R speakers to generate a 12v REM turn on without the need to have a REM from the HU.Just L/R speaker leads to the Kicker LOC and from the LOC to the amp with the L/R RCA and the REM from the LOC to the REM on the amplified sub.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kicker-46KISLOC2-Stereo-Line-Output-Converter/dp/B07VKFSLKN/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3BA10LZSO9JL6&keywords=kicker+LOC&qid=1692757606&sprefix=kicker+loc,aps,391&sr=8-1
 
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Merton69

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