Jump to content


ss3079

Get Your SPL Related Questions Answered Here!

Recommended Posts

A few of our seasoned SPL vets wanted a thread where they could answer YOUR questions, regarding SPL competition.

 

How do I squeeze the extra 10th of a db out of my box? What can I do to make my current box better? Whatever your question is, as long as it's regarding SPL competition, post it here!

 

SQ guys get left out, again ;)

 

http://www.soundoff.org/events.htm

http://www.iasca.com/events/

http://www.nsplcompetition.com/mainpages/events.htm

http://www.termpro.com/asp/eventschedule1.asp

http://www.mecacaraudio.com/

http://www.slapshow.com/events/index.htm

 

I know they're links to the events pages ... but I'm sure you can find your way to the rules when Loyd or someone tells you to check out the rule page and doesn't supply a link :D;)

 

- Steve


Moderator

 

2007 Chrysler 300C

 

2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab

Optima, Volant, Bully Dog, Corsa, Gibson, Powermaster, California Super Trucks, Fox Racing, Airaid

Alpine 7998, Alpine HDA-5460, Arc Audio MEQ-30, (2) Adire Audio Shiva, Image Dynamics CD-2COMP, Image Dynamics CX64, (2) Image Dynamics ID8V.2, Arc Audio 2100CXL, Arc Audio 4150CXL, Arc Audio 1500D-R

 

2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX14

I dont mean to be rude, but what is the highest level of education that you finished?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yah.. I'll make it a point to visit this thread at least once a day...

 

and always keep in mind... every vehicle is different, every install is different.. what works in one car, may not in another.. thats the joy of competition SPL...

 

now ask away :)

 

Loyd L.


SQL Prolly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ditto, Ill help out whenever possible. ;)


1 volt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)]

 

1 watt = 1 joule / second

1 watt = (1 Newton)(meter) / second

1 watt = [1 kg/(second^2)] (meter) / second

 

simplifying we find:

 

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter)] / (second ^3)

 

 

therefore:

 

P = (I)(V)

 

1 watt = (1 volt)(1ampere)

1 watt = ( [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)] )(1 ampere)

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / (second^3)

 

 

And that is WHY Power is in the SI units of Watts. enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok me first....

 

My system is in my sig and I am wanting an all out SPL setup but still be able to plug it for daily drive. I plan on upgrading me alt and adding possibly upgrading my amps too. I was thinking, Orion 2500D, or a pair of MTX 81000D's but that is in the future. I am thinking about having 140^2 inches of port area but idk my when it comes to stuff like that. I was thinking around 40-50 for my daily setup. I want to have as much SQ for daily and as much SPL for comps as possible. Is 140^2 overkill or is it good or what???? Also is 45Hz a good SPL tuning. I know tuning higher is not always a garented raise in SPL so that is why I was...

 

Thanks in advance, glad a thread like this was finally made....

 

 

Jon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For SPL, a good start is the total Sd of the driver(s) for port area. Tuning is really dependant on the system/car. If you can get access to a meter for a little bit, may want to make adjustable ports with different tunings and see where you peak.

 

Hopefully that helps...good luck :)


randysavagenm6.jpg

ctsig.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ok me first....

 

My system is in my sig and I am wanting an all out SPL setup but still be able to plug it for daily drive. I plan on upgrading me alt and adding possibly upgrading my amps too. I was thinking, Orion 2500D, or a pair of MTX 81000D's but that is in the future. I am thinking about having 140^2 inches of port area but idk my when it comes to stuff like that. I was thinking around 40-50 for my daily setup. I want to have as much SQ for daily and as much SPL for comps as possible. Is 140^2 overkill or is it good or what???? Also is 45Hz a good SPL tuning. I know tuning higher is not always a garented raise in SPL so that is why I was...

 

Thanks in advance, glad a thread like this was finally made....

 

 

Jon

 

 

 

See this is the thing, I need to know what you have for a system. Your sig says IA DP 12/15.....also the same for amp so im assuming you are in the planning stages.

 

For starters 4.5 cubes would be a good start for the IA DP 15. I'd actually recommend a little bit smaller for the 12. Box size is going to also vary pending the amount of power you apply to the sub. The DP would come alive with about 2kw or more, so 2 mtx's would be a necessity.

 

Feeding the amps, you at least need a good deep cycle up front, so I'd recommend an Optima Blue Top Group 31 - proven loudest battery for burping with the engine off when you are sucking a lot of power from the battery.

 

Run 1/0. Do not skimp on it.

 

As far as port area that should work. The only box I've tried with the mentioned sub was 2.2 cubes tuned to 41hz with about 50sq in of port and 4400 watts rms. (No I couldn't get it to full excursion either.) Also another oddity, the box is dictating the loudest note, not my truck. This box is the same size withthe same port length, but I've been able to make my note go from 44hz to 47hz with some tweaking internally using angles and fiberglass and whatnot. This also gave me a bit of spl to boot.

 

If you have an SUV there are several ways to make a loud box. Typically the CRX box is the easiest to get loud. Loyd has a few other tricks I'm sure he is going to share....by firing the ports and subs back I hear? ;)

 

As far as what to tune to for SPL, that can only be determined by testing on the meter with different tunings.... The same can be said for direction of firing.


1 volt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)]

 

1 watt = 1 joule / second

1 watt = (1 Newton)(meter) / second

1 watt = [1 kg/(second^2)] (meter) / second

 

simplifying we find:

 

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter)] / (second ^3)

 

 

therefore:

 

P = (I)(V)

 

1 watt = (1 volt)(1ampere)

1 watt = ( [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)] )(1 ampere)

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / (second^3)

 

 

And that is WHY Power is in the SI units of Watts. enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

eh.. I feel like a ramble..

 

there's 3 keys to being a winning competitor

 

winning meaning you can go to a large, sanctioned show, and bring home a first place trophy..

 

winning meaning holding state records, world records, and being world champion..

 

1. SPL meter

2. Electrical System

3. Being able to think on your own

 

number one is basic.. if you don't own, or have access to a good SPL meter.. might as well hang it up right there.. can't test what works if you have no meter.. ear doesn't play well in this area..

 

number two.. is sadly, the most overlooked portion of a vehicle...

 

sure.. you just bought 10 2 kw amps... whatcha gonna power them with? That stock alt and battery isn't gonna take kindly...

 

you NEED

 

1. Alternator(s)

2. Batteries

3. Large Wire

 

1. Alternator is duh... its the only device in a vehicle capable of producing power.. its used to supply the amps, supplement batteries to power amps, and recharge batteries in orgs where the vehicle must be off.. bigger is better..

 

2. Batteries.. yep.. can't run without them... if you have 600 amps of current draw from your amps... 1 200 amp alt isn't gonna float the boat.. I recommend something at least 900 cca, and with long warranties :)

 

3. Wire... usually overlooked.. verah bad.. ALWAYS upgrade the underhood wiring from the alternator (power and ground) and front battery (power and ground) the gains from doing that will astonish you.. make sure the amps are wired up with the largest wire that will fit in them.... also make sure you're using good ground areas.. the battery bank needs lots of grounds, with big wire.. Don't ever skimp in this area.. it will come back to bite you in the ass...

 

Finally... number 3.. you can't be a copycat in this game....

 

every box doesn't work in every vehicle... every box trick doesn't work in every box.. every woofer doesn't work the same in every box..

 

don't follow... use number 1 to make your own combinations come together.. That's one of the beauties of attending and competing at a world finals event.. you see all these completely different installs.. within tenth's of a db from each other... truly amazing..

 

leave yourself open to change, and be willing to spend countless hours working on your system... thats what it takes...

 

Loyd L.


SQL Prolly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Loyd 110%.

 

BTW Im in sarasota, fl and have a termlab usb so if any one needs metering let me know.


1 volt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)]

 

1 watt = 1 joule / second

1 watt = (1 Newton)(meter) / second

1 watt = [1 kg/(second^2)] (meter) / second

 

simplifying we find:

 

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter)] / (second ^3)

 

 

therefore:

 

P = (I)(V)

 

1 watt = (1 volt)(1ampere)

1 watt = ( [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)] )(1 ampere)

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / (second^3)

 

 

And that is WHY Power is in the SI units of Watts. enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I had forgot that I needed to change my sig. I am looking at a HiFonics 1500D for now. Also I am getting the 15". I don't think I am giong to be able to get my hands on a mic anytime soon, if ever so that part will be hard. An HO alt and deep cell are also on my list for the future. I just want to get the basics right now and build from there. All this is going in a Buick Centery so I do have some limits on the size of my box. Space is no problem but hieght is. I am having to either put the face of the box at an angle or give the box an unregualar shape, hard to explain but I know what I am doing..lol. I am leaning more toward and angled face so I can move the box around a little. If I do it the other way it will be built perfectly to the trunk so I could not move it at all. I'm quite a ways away from FL or else I would take your offer up. Would be awesome to meet some of the ppl from here. Maybe one of these days I will.

 

Thanks everyone for your imput so far. Looking forward to getting the stuff in and start competing...

 

 

Jon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I should be attending a few shows in CT/NJ sometime this summer...I know it's a far ride for you, but may be something to do and experience...


randysavagenm6.jpg

ctsig.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok guys heres one for ya! This weekend I'll be entering my FIRST competition. Now my box is tuned to 30 hz(Iknow its not the greatest fo spl). Now what frequencies should I start with for the comp? My hearing isnt that great so I really dont know where to start. Should I just use a 30 sec sine wave of a variety of freq. And I know you should base your tuning around the resonnant freq of the car but what should I do if I dont know it?


- 99 Cougar -

- Rainbow CMX265 Kickbass - PG ti600.2 -

- Mach 5 Audio (2) IXL12's in 3.2 cubes net@ 33hz - USAmps MD.1D -

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm still in my final planning stages for subs and amp but I thought I'd ask few questions before I go ahead and buy my equipment. First off, I have a 1999 Mazda 626 so I'm sort of limited when it comes to putting a big box in the trunk. I decided to go with 2 Treo SS15.44 and I'm going to power them both with Hifonics BX1500 (750wrms to each driver). Wayne from Treo told me that I would need 3.5ft^3 for both drivers sealed or 5.5ft^3 ported (I forgot to ask him what should I tune the box to). I'm probably gonna go with 2 1"MDF ported boxes (easier to fit them in). This setup would be used for daily driving, but I'd also like to compete at few small local car shows. I want my setup to be SQL for daily driving and maybe be able to have more SPL for competitions. I am going to run 1/0 awg wire, do the big 3, already have a quote from Iraggi for an 180 amp (better at idle than 200amp) alternator, and I'm still not sure what battery to get (right now i have Autocraft Titanium 800cca), but I'm prob gonna go with Optima Blue Top like Bumpin 'Yota recommended. So I have my electrical system pretty much covered up. I'm going to get about 40ft^3 of Dynamat Extreme and deaden the trunk. Would I have to use any other sound deadener that doesn't cost a lot along with Dynamat Extreme in order to reduce rattles? Where would you guys recommend facing the subs, what tuning should I have on the box, and how big of a port? Box is really concerning me right now, and I've posted on a lot of forums and haven't gotten any answers :(. Bumpin' 'Yota: I will come to dB Drag in Jupiter on August 14th and I won't have nothing installed by then, I hope I can see you there to ask you few questions :). Also, I've never built my box and I'll have to ask few local shops for quotes on it (Pro Sound.. shop in Gainsville quoted me $250 for those 2 boxes), or would you guys recommend that I get someone to do me a design so I do it myself? I know this is kind of OT (if you mods think its too much OT you can delete the post or I'll do it, and maybe have someone email me at linksyz@comcast.net for few anwers)

 

Thanks,

Nino


2008 Nissan 350Z

 

Alpine CDA-9887

Focal 165 K2P

DLS Iridium 10"

Alpine PDX 4.150

Alpine PDX 1.600

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok guys heres one for ya! This weekend I'll be entering my FIRST competition. Now my box is tuned to 30 hz(Iknow its not the greatest fo spl). Now what frequencies should I start with for the comp? My hearing isnt that great so I really dont know where to start. Should I just use a 30 sec sine wave of a variety of freq. And I know you should base your tuning around the resonnant freq of the car but what should I do if I dont know it?

 

 

Well ther are several ways to skin this cat. If I were in your shoes, and it was a dB drag event, id start out with a sine wave at 40hz moving up to 60hz for qualifying. (Keeping track of about when your car gets loudest.)

 

Then as soon as you can, pay for several reruns. (Inform the show promotor that you need to find your loudest note for these reruns - also keep in mind that the show promoter does NOT have to allow reruns after you qualify so in a multipointer it's unlikely you'll get reruns...)

 

Ideally you'd try to find your note while burping full tilt, but you do not have that luxury of time at an event. Therefore you will need to turn the system down about 20% from max and burp at each note starting at about 40hz and going up in frequency. Note what the score does. When the score stops climbing with each change of note you have a good idea of where your loudest note is.

 

Full power burping may or may not change this note, so in your elimination rounds you need to try refind the loudest note.

 

1. Right when the judges say "GO!" nail the system at the loudest low volume frequency for about 4 seconds straight.

2. Note the score. You'd be surprised how many times I've forgotten to do this - when in the lanes, there is a LOT of adrenaline.

3. Then, after you've noted the score, move down one frequency and make no other changes.

4. With about 5 seconds left, nail it again and see if the score changed.

 

If there was no change, the next time you run try one frequency higher than your loudest low power burp frequency.

 

If neither differing frequency improves your score you've found your loudest note.

 

If your score went up at all with either differing frequency, continue in that direction until your score stops climbing.

 

 

Once you have found your loudest note, THEN you can try changing other things like moving your seats, visors, center console, holding various panels etc.

 

but DO NOT make any more than 1 change at any one time!!! That way you know what each change does for your loudest volume. ;)


1 volt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)]

 

1 watt = 1 joule / second

1 watt = (1 Newton)(meter) / second

1 watt = [1 kg/(second^2)] (meter) / second

 

simplifying we find:

 

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter)] / (second ^3)

 

 

therefore:

 

P = (I)(V)

 

1 watt = (1 volt)(1ampere)

1 watt = ( [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)] )(1 ampere)

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / (second^3)

 

 

And that is WHY Power is in the SI units of Watts. enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I heard somewhere that the loudest freq. is usually 10-15 hz above the port freq. If this is correct, which I dont know if it is, why would i have to go up to 60 hz?

 

Should I do a 40-50 30 sec wave that way I can sort of narrow the range down?


- 99 Cougar -

- Rainbow CMX265 Kickbass - PG ti600.2 -

- Mach 5 Audio (2) IXL12's in 3.2 cubes net@ 33hz - USAmps MD.1D -

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm still in my final planning stages for subs and amp but I thought I'd ask few questions before I go ahead and buy my equipment. First off, I have a 1999 Mazda 626 so I'm sort of limited when it comes to putting a big box in the trunk. I decided to go with 2 Treo SS15.44 and I'm going to power them both with Hifonics BX1500 (750wrms to each driver). Wayne from Treo told me that I would need 3.5ft^3 for both drivers sealed or 5.5ft^3 ported (I forgot to ask him what should I tune the box to). I'm probably gonna go with 2 1"MDF ported boxes (easier to fit them in). This setup would be used for daily driving, but I'd also like to compete at few small local car shows. I want my setup to be SQL for daily driving and maybe be able to have more SPL for competitions. I am going to run 1/0 awg wire, do the big 3, already have a quote from Iraggi for an 180 amp (better at idle than 200amp) alternator, and I'm still not sure what battery to get (right now i have Autocraft Titanium 800cca), but I'm prob gonna go with Optima Blue Top like Bumpin 'Yota recommended. So I have my electrical system pretty much covered up. I'm going to get about 40ft^3 of Dynamat Extreme and deaden the trunk. Would I have to use any other sound deadener that doesn't cost a lot along with Dynamat Extreme in order to reduce rattles? Where would you guys recommend facing the subs, what tuning should I have on the box, and how big of a port? Box is really concerning me right now, and I've posted on a lot of forums and haven't gotten any answers :(. Bumpin' 'Yota: I will come to dB Drag in Jupiter on August 14th and I won't have nothing installed by then, I hope I can see you there to ask you few questions :). Also, I've never built my box and I'll have to ask few local shops for quotes on it (Pro Sound.. shop in Gainsville quoted me $250 for those 2 boxes), or would you guys recommend that I get someone to do me a design so I do it myself? I know this is kind of OT (if you mods think its too much OT you can delete the post or I'll do it, and maybe have someone email me at linksyz@comcast.net for few anwers)

 

Thanks,

Nino

 

Pro Sound in Gainesville? I lived there for 4 years and never heard of that one....is it a brand new one on N Main street near the old AudioWorx? If that quote was for ported and finished boxes, it's a pretty good quote. I also build boxes for people as well, so lemme know....

 

I dont have a whole lot of time right now, so I'll post back later on tonight when I do. ;)


1 volt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)]

 

1 watt = 1 joule / second

1 watt = (1 Newton)(meter) / second

1 watt = [1 kg/(second^2)] (meter) / second

 

simplifying we find:

 

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter)] / (second ^3)

 

 

therefore:

 

P = (I)(V)

 

1 watt = (1 volt)(1ampere)

1 watt = ( [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)] )(1 ampere)

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / (second^3)

 

 

And that is WHY Power is in the SI units of Watts. enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pro Sound in Gainesville? I lived there for 4 years and never heard of that one....is it a brand new one on N Main street near the old AudioWorx? If that quote was for ported and finished boxes' date=' it's a pretty good quote. I also build boxes for people as well, so lemme know....

 

I dont have a whole lot of time right now, so I'll post back later on tonight when I do. ;)[/quote']

 

i'm not sure what the name of the shop was (I think he said somethin like Pro Sound and dudes name was Shane if I recall right). Yes, the quote he gave me was for ported boxes (he said he'd have to make 2 and put a board on top so it looks like 1 big box. Sarasota is a bit farther away than Gainsville (I'd travel up to Orlando or Gainsville to get my box). Thanks for replying, no hurry about posting, just do it when you get some free time :)


2008 Nissan 350Z

 

Alpine CDA-9887

Focal 165 K2P

DLS Iridium 10"

Alpine PDX 4.150

Alpine PDX 1.600

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ok guys heres one for ya! This weekend I'll be entering my FIRST competition. Now my box is tuned to 30 hz(Iknow its not the greatest fo spl). Now what frequencies should I start with for the comp? My hearing isnt that great so I really dont know where to start. Should I just use a 30 sec sine wave of a variety of freq. And I know you should base your tuning around the resonnant freq of the car but what should I do if I dont know it?

 

your peak will probably be in the 40-55hz area... best thing you could do is play say.. 40 hz.. then jump up to 45.. then 50.. and keep going until you don't gain on the meter.. then play around with frequencies between the tones you just played...

 

Loyd L.


SQL Prolly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I heard somewhere that the loudest freq. is usually 10-15 hz above the port freq. If this is correct, which I dont know if it is, why would i have to go up to 60 hz?

 

Should I do a 40-50 30 sec wave that way I can sort of narrow the range down?

 

 

Ima get fired from my job due to lack of sleep posting on forums...lol

 

I've had systems that peaked about 4hz above their tuning to as much as 10hz. Same vehicle. Beats me why, but if I had to guess, I'd venture how the sub reacts to the box....

 

One lesson I learned early in my drag career, is that if you have NO idea what your note is, you shouldn't limit testing to what you think may be the loudest note. My old no wall install peaked at 38hz. Not at 42hz like I thought for a few shows. That mistake cost me 1.5dB or so... If you can test everything from 30-70, but I'd bet dollars to donuts your loudst is somewhere betweetn 40-60hz...

 

You'd probably be safe with 40-55hz, especially considering hte trunk car, but I have seen a few installs peak at 65hz. (CRX hatchback)


1 volt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)]

 

1 watt = 1 joule / second

1 watt = (1 Newton)(meter) / second

1 watt = [1 kg/(second^2)] (meter) / second

 

simplifying we find:

 

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter)] / (second ^3)

 

 

therefore:

 

P = (I)(V)

 

1 watt = (1 volt)(1ampere)

1 watt = ( [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)] )(1 ampere)

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / (second^3)

 

 

And that is WHY Power is in the SI units of Watts. enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Loyd, I think I recall reading something you said about switching your bracing...I'm throwing in some threaded rod tomorrow, what kind of gain did you see with the switch to threaded rod?


randysavagenm6.jpg

ctsig.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm still in my final planning stages for subs and amp but I thought I'd ask few questions before I go ahead and buy my equipment. First off, I have a 1999 Mazda 626 so I'm sort of limited when it comes to putting a big box in the trunk. I decided to go with 2 Treo SS15.44 and I'm going to power them both with Hifonics BX1500 (750wrms to each driver). Wayne from Treo told me that I would need 3.5ft^3 for both drivers sealed or 5.5ft^3 ported (I forgot to ask him what should I tune the box to). I'm probably gonna go with 2 1"MDF ported boxes (easier to fit them in). This setup would be used for daily driving, but I'd also like to compete at few small local car shows. I want my setup to be SQL for daily driving and maybe be able to have more SPL for competitions. I am going to run 1/0 awg wire, do the big 3, already have a quote from Iraggi for an 180 amp (better at idle than 200amp) alternator, and I'm still not sure what battery to get (right now i have Autocraft Titanium 800cca), but I'm prob gonna go with Optima Blue Top like Bumpin 'Yota recommended. So I have my electrical system pretty much covered up. I'm going to get about 40ft^3 of Dynamat Extreme and deaden the trunk. Would I have to use any other sound deadener that doesn't cost a lot along with Dynamat Extreme in order to reduce rattles? Where would you guys recommend facing the subs, what tuning should I have on the box, and how big of a port? Box is really concerning me right now, and I've posted on a lot of forums and haven't gotten any answers :(. Bumpin' 'Yota: I will come to dB Drag in Jupiter on August 14th and I won't have nothing installed by then, I hope I can see you there to ask you few questions :). Also, I've never built my box and I'll have to ask few local shops for quotes on it (Pro Sound.. shop in Gainsville quoted me $250 for those 2 boxes), or would you guys recommend that I get someone to do me a design so I do it myself? I know this is kind of OT (if you mods think its too much OT you can delete the post or I'll do it, and maybe have someone email me at linksyz@comcast.net for few anwers)

 

Thanks,

Nino

 

Not OT at all. ;)

 

Starting from the bottom up, to the best of my knowledge, adding dynamat knockoffs helped my score. (Using classic termpro, so I have no idea if I really did gain...) Most EVERYONE I talk to, tells me it hurt their scores a LOT. (Maybe I have a 153 on the TL right now and dont even know it! LOL) But it does WONDERS for rattles when used properly.

 

As far as firing direction and tuning, I don't know. That's something only a meter can tell you exactly. Your ears can do so to a degree, but often using one's ears is very misleading. (And damaging.)

 

Everything you mentioned looks good, and in fact I'd venture out on a limb and say you can likely support 2 1500s...(with 1 run of 1/0 for each amp because voltage drop between your battery and your amp is the DEVIL!!! lol)

 

One thing else - Ground your amp(s) with 1/0 not only to the floor boards, but also to the frame below. Then up front, do your big 3, but then upgrade and add grounds. You want the engine block grounded to the firewall, the frame, and the battery. Grounds are VERY important!

 

I have to make a trip to gainesville directly, so if you want we can get the ball rolling... PM me ;)


1 volt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)]

 

1 watt = 1 joule / second

1 watt = (1 Newton)(meter) / second

1 watt = [1 kg/(second^2)] (meter) / second

 

simplifying we find:

 

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter)] / (second ^3)

 

 

therefore:

 

P = (I)(V)

 

1 watt = (1 volt)(1ampere)

1 watt = ( [1(kg)(meter^2)] / [(second^3)(ampere)] )(1 ampere)

1 watt = [1(kg)(meter^2)] / (second^3)

 

 

And that is WHY Power is in the SI units of Watts. enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create a free account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's free & easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×