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By Tom Keyte
Hi, thanks in advance for any help. I've added a leisure battery to my van, using the wiring in this video: https://youtu.be/oOQHe_cZtI4?t=1044
I have this amp: https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-pioneer-gm-d8704_p-41014.htm and this head unit: https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/deh-s3000bt
I'm assuming the head unit will be fine if I wire it in to the fuse block (this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IVRC9RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
Should I re-wire the permanent or ignition switched terminal from the back of the head unit to the fuse block.
And my main question...
For the amp, Should I be connecting that via 16mm cable straight to the battery (or to the isolator switch in this case) and does it need its own fuse.
I am in the process of replace the factory head unit (sony no nav) with another head unit (power acoustik with nav) and when I went to create a wiring harness, I noticed there were no negative speaker connections coming from original head unit.. So my question is, should I ground the ones coming out of the new head unit to each other or just leave them unconnected?
I recently just installed an Alpine type S 12" sub in my 2013 Ford Police Interceptor.
While I'm driving, the sub randomly spikes up in volume, and then does back down again. There's no coherent pattern that would link it to acceleration or braking.
Ive got a Clarion XH5210 2 channel Amp with a max output of 340W. The amp's remote wire is spliced off of my accessory 1 wire from my ignition switch, as I have a stock head unit. I also have an LC2i, which receives input from my rear speakers, and then through RCA, connects to my amp. Both are off the same power cable ran from the battery, and off the same ground which I have screwed into the metal frame in my trunk. All my wiring is 14 gauge speaker wire (except power and ground of course).
If anyone has ran into similar issues, help would be much appreciated!
So I bought the cheapest car around and of course, it has a crap sound system. fortunately, I had 2 pair of speakers laying around:
- PIONEER TS-R6951S 400W 3-Way (this one I want to put in the back)
- Boston exl-60c 25w RMS 220w (and these ones in rear passenger seats)
and I plan to buy another 2 pair to put in the front door side for the driver and other passengers PIONEER 600W TOTAL 2-WAY 6.5 INCH.
However, since I'm new to this type of hobbies/ DIY I don't know anything other than how to make the installation, so the thing I want know is if I need a new stereo player and an amp as well or I easily make the setup work without either of them, and is there anything I am missing.
if I put a new stereo I will lose the controls from the steering wheel.
Btw before installing the speaker I'm definitely going to revest the sides of the door with sound proofing/vibration deadening sheets to improve the sound ofc.
Hi! So my current setup are Dual 6x9 200w rear deck and Dual 5.25 in the front doors. I’m wanting to know if it would be possible to mount 6x9 speakers in the rear doors and splice them to existing wires. Would this cause any issues with power to my speakers? Would doing this result in screwing up my head unit at all? I have an aftermarket Sony head unit, I don’t know the exact model. Thanks!