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Warpshift

Been some time....

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So I had created an account on this site over 5yrs ago and never really got back into it, vs buying some audio components from a great member named Jim. However he definitely pointed me down the right path for my truck's older, but still working great sound stage.

I can tear apart a car, PCs, and currently building my own homelab so I can finally knock out my Network+ and Security+ certs. However I have always been scared to do all the wiring for speakers in a vehicle as the last time I did it, I managed to blow a brand new set of old school CDT speakers. 

Anywho, I just picked up a new daily driver that I will be pouring over the forums for the best audio system I can build without breaking the bank. Oh and that new vehicle is a 2008 Honda Civic EX 4D. I need to install a new h/u and speakers. Then a decent sub to round it all out. 

 

Edited by Warpshift

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Welcome back. Haven't seen Jim on here in a while.


2016 Focus ST3 - Rockford DSR1 / PPI 900.4 / Silverflute 6.5" mids / Massive CT2 tweeters /Sundown Xv2 15"/ Taramps DSP3k / Stinger Roadkill / KNU wiring / Northstar SMSAGM80 /

2010 Focus coupe 157@46hz

Pioneer 80prs /(8) FU Audio 750 12"s / (4) FSD 2600s / (1) FSD 125.4 / (1) FSD 85.4 / (4) Crescendo UN-10" mids / (4) Crescendo FT1 tweeters / Stinger Roadkill / 2/0 EB flex wire / (5) Powerware 90AH batteries / DC 270XP Alt /

https://www.youtube.com/popwarhomie

too many freq at once, burn the coil, we all know, over 40-50hz, its all coilburning material.

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Welcome back mate,

Thanks for raising your question here.  So you are after a decent system with a bit of thump to bump your tunes...nice!!!:fro:

  • Find out what size your stock speakers are in the locations , look on line or visit a reputable shop to get that information.  If it turns out the wrong size then no doubt, they should be able to provide a replaceable according to the size.  Suggest you go for component speakers, as they provide better imaging and staging;
  • Suggest to  go for a 4 channel amp, that includes variable high pass/ low pass crossover functions, bass boost, subsonic filter , separate gain controls;
  • will need to purchase at least 4 gauge power kit;
  • Subwoofer and box - depending on your bass you are after according to your music taste, ported for RAP / (If you want boomy bass, and sealed box if you want tight well defined kick to your system;
  • Sound deadening is a good option to add to your front doors and boot area where the subwoofer will be placed;
  • You may need to purchase high to low converters if you are using stock speakers , but that's depends if your amplifier has provision to accept signal from speaker outputs;
  • Finally an installer to put it all in, if you are not competent to do the job yourself;

The work is fairly easy but to lay it out for you this is the steps you take;

  • find a hole through your engine bay to run the red power wire, usually through the fire wall from a rubber grommet;
  • allow for adequate length so it can securely run close to the fire wall to the positive battery terminal;
  • allow adequate space so it bends and can be tucked away neatly away from the engine bay;
  • You will also need some tools to get this work done, screw drivers, flat and star, portable drill, multimeter, scissors, head unit prying tool, electrical tape, soldering iron, solder, conduit to cover power wires (depending on wire sizes), crimping tool, or a vice; Piece of timber to cover boot area shape; wet rag, dust pan and brush, vacuum cleaner;
  • educate yourself to use a multimeter, your best friend in car audio work;
  • run the power cable from the fire wall, to the interior of the vehicle and run the power cable one side of the vehicle, close to the door plastic covers , you will need to remove them with a flat screw driver, but do it gently so the clips don't break; (don't connect the power cable to the battery but you can crimp the end with lug and attach the fuse holder (without the fuse in it)
  • Next remove your head unit to check if it has provision for RCA's ( if not you will need to purchase speaker wires to connect to the speaker outputs of the head unit and run them the opposite size to the power cable (passenger side by remove the plastic trims near the door)
  • Need to run a remote trigger wire the same side as the red power cable from the battery.  If not available from head unit, then use the amplifier with signal sensing from the speaker output of the head unit all the way to the trunk area;
  • in the boot area, use a rear seat anchor point to attach ground wire, after you have crimped the lug into the end of it,
  • Using 1/2 inch plywood, cut out your trunk floor area and you can use large Velcro to attach it to the trunk floor. Use drill to make holes for power, ground / remote/ speaker out put wires / RCA cables;
  • Attach the amplifier and connect the wires and ensure they are tight, use Velcro mount the amplifier horizontally in the boot area, in a corner;
  • Grab your subwoofer box and wire it up bridged to the rear channels of the amp;
  • Run front speaker wires from the trunk area to behind the head unit and connect it to the speaker outputs of your front door car speakers;
  • Now the doors, open the plastic door trims using prying tools, avoid nudging firmly to avoid clips being broken;
  • check for hidden screws and remove them, usually one in the door handle, behind door opening lever, and another near the power window button(s);
  • take the cables out from the door opening lever carefully, inspect how they are fitted so you can put it back once done;
  • Remove stock speakers, take out component speakers to check correct size before installing, and cut the wires;  you may need to solder additional wire to accommodate the passive crossover network then out to your after market woofer / tweeter;
  • Run your tweeter wires up the door sail area and mount it securely to the sale using appropriate bracket; check if all speaker wires are away from the window winding mechanism;
  • Wipe inside of the doors with damp cloth and then apply sound deadening inside the inner curved panel, sparingly, you can cut an add deadening material, do this in a hot day as its easier for the adhesive to stick nicely due to warm temperature;
  • You may need to apply speaker adapter if needed or you can fit it straight in if it fits in the spot with the hole aligned,
  • use some sound deadening around the speakers before you install  it, solder the speaker wires, tweeters, to the passive crossover and place the crossover on the sound deadening material outside so it sits between the door panel and the plastic door trim; ensure that speaker is wired correctly checking the polarity;
  • Apply sound deadening to the outer panel between the plastic door panel, again, sparingly, you can knock on it to see it does not ring;
  • Place the door trim back and check the crossover, and speaker is all clear to operate;
  • Repeat the same step the other side;
  • Ones that is done, check ground, , power, Cables on the amplifier is all secured.  Connect your subwoofer and secure it with Velcro or use small L brackets to secure it to the Plywood panel.
  • Check all gains on the amp is on minimum;
  • Connect the fuse on the battery terminal and then turn your radio on. ( if your radio  has provision for high pass, low pass, subwoofer control, use them to adjust the sound)
  • Go to your amp and get a mate to turn the volume to 3/4 before you start to set the gains on the amp.
  • Also engage your amps high pass to run the front speakers, and set your rear channel to low pass, start with 100hz and then 80hz,
  • Run it on low to medium volume for a week before the speakers break in then you can adjust the gains later;
  • Turn your ignition to see there is no engine noise;  (mounting the amp on the timber board, will restrict electro magnetic ground loops so you don't get any)
  • ensure your subwoofer is secured in the trunk area, add a subwoofer grill for protection against mums shopping, kids scooter, your golf bag etc..:suave:
  • Let us know how your go.
  • This is a rough impression but you can be more creative and have good wood working skills to do a better custom work using more elaborate tools such as router / Perspex, Custom subwoofer box instead of a sealed / ported prefab box but its a good start to searching for a decent sound in your ride.

Let us know how you go mate!

 

DSC_0065.jpg

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On 5/14/2019 at 2:47 AM, Warpshift said:

So I had created an account on this site over 5yrs ago and never really got back into it, vs buying some audio components from a great member named Jim. However he definitely pointed me down the right path for my truck's older, but still working great sound stage.

I can tear apart a car, PCs, and currently building my own homelab so I can finally knock out my Network+ and Security+ certs. However I have always been scared to do all the wiring for speakers in a vehicle as the last time I did it, I managed to blow a brand new set of old school CDT speakers. 

Anywho, I just picked up a new daily driver that I will be pouring over the forums for the best audio system I can build without breaking the bank. Oh and that new vehicle is a 2008 Honda Civic EX 4D. I need to install a new h/u and speakers. Then a decent sub to round it all out. 

 

Yeah Jim's been gone for a minute. He's an old man now. Welcome back.


Refs = PapaGeno21, Goindef154, 92c1v1c, Disarmer, chemmins, 97maxima, kroid777, ithertz, basscort2009, hunterw, mar08052, appleyard, millimac247, jonny101abc, sundownz, cranberryyumyum, mig139, daboyfrumdabx, skateguy92, basebalz13.

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On 5/15/2019 at 10:56 AM, DRBOOM said:

Welcome back mate,

Thanks for raising your question here.  So you are after a decent system with a bit of thump to bump your tunes...nice!!!:fro:

  • Find out what size your stock speakers are in the locations , look on line or visit a reputable shop to get that information.  If it turns out the wrong size then no doubt, they should be able to provide a replaceable according to the size.  Suggest you go for component speakers, as they provide better imaging and staging;
  • Suggest to  go for a 4 channel amp, that includes variable high pass/ low pass crossover functions, bass boost, subsonic filter , separate gain controls;
  • will need to purchase at least 4 gauge power kit;
  • Subwoofer and box - depending on your bass you are after according to your music taste, ported for RAP / (If you want boomy bass, and sealed box if you want tight well defined kick to your system;
  • Sound deadening is a good option to add to your front doors and boot area where the subwoofer will be placed;
  • You may need to purchase high to low converters if you are using stock speakers , but that's depends if your amplifier has provision to accept signal from speaker outputs;
  • Finally an installer to put it all in, if you are not competent to do the job yourself;

The work is fairly easy but to lay it out for you this is the steps you take;

  • find a hole through your engine bay to run the red power wire, usually through the fire wall from a rubber grommet;
  • allow for adequate length so it can securely run close to the fire wall to the positive battery terminal;
  • allow adequate space so it bends and can be tucked away neatly away from the engine bay;
  • You will also need some tools to get this work done, screw drivers, flat and star, portable drill, multimeter, scissors, head unit prying tool, electrical tape, soldering iron, solder, conduit to cover power wires (depending on wire sizes), crimping tool, or a vice; Piece of timber to cover boot area shape; wet rag, dust pan and brush, vacuum cleaner;
  • educate yourself to use a multimeter, your best friend in car audio work;
  • run the power cable from the fire wall, to the interior of the vehicle and run the power cable one side of the vehicle, close to the door plastic covers , you will need to remove them with a flat screw driver, but do it gently so the clips don't break; (don't connect the power cable to the battery but you can crimp the end with lug and attach the fuse holder (without the fuse in it)
  • Next remove your head unit to check if it has provision for RCA's ( if not you will need to purchase speaker wires to connect to the speaker outputs of the head unit and run them the opposite size to the power cable (passenger side by remove the plastic trims near the door)
  • Need to run a remote trigger wire the same side as the red power cable from the battery.  If not available from head unit, then use the amplifier with signal sensing from the speaker output of the head unit all the way to the trunk area;
  • in the boot area, use a rear seat anchor point to attach ground wire, after you have crimped the lug into the end of it,
  • Using 1/2 inch plywood, cut out your trunk floor area and you can use large Velcro to attach it to the trunk floor. Use drill to make holes for power, ground / remote/ speaker out put wires / RCA cables;
  • Attach the amplifier and connect the wires and ensure they are tight, use Velcro mount the amplifier horizontally in the boot area, in a corner;
  • Grab your subwoofer box and wire it up bridged to the rear channels of the amp;
  • Run front speaker wires from the trunk area to behind the head unit and connect it to the speaker outputs of your front door car speakers;
  • Now the doors, open the plastic door trims using prying tools, avoid nudging firmly to avoid clips being broken;
  • check for hidden screws and remove them, usually one in the door handle, behind door opening lever, and another near the power window button(s);
  • take the cables out from the door opening lever carefully, inspect how they are fitted so you can put it back once done;
  • Remove stock speakers, take out component speakers to check correct size before installing, and cut the wires;  you may need to solder additional wire to accommodate the passive crossover network then out to your after market woofer / tweeter;
  • Run your tweeter wires up the door sail area and mount it securely to the sale using appropriate bracket; check if all speaker wires are away from the window winding mechanism;
  • Wipe inside of the doors with damp cloth and then apply sound deadening inside the inner curved panel, sparingly, you can cut an add deadening material, do this in a hot day as its easier for the adhesive to stick nicely due to warm temperature;
  • You may need to apply speaker adapter if needed or you can fit it straight in if it fits in the spot with the hole aligned,
  • use some sound deadening around the speakers before you install  it, solder the speaker wires, tweeters, to the passive crossover and place the crossover on the sound deadening material outside so it sits between the door panel and the plastic door trim; ensure that speaker is wired correctly checking the polarity;
  • Apply sound deadening to the outer panel between the plastic door panel, again, sparingly, you can knock on it to see it does not ring;
  • Place the door trim back and check the crossover, and speaker is all clear to operate;
  • Repeat the same step the other side;
  • Ones that is done, check ground, , power, Cables on the amplifier is all secured.  Connect your subwoofer and secure it with Velcro or use small L brackets to secure it to the Plywood panel.
  • Check all gains on the amp is on minimum;
  • Connect the fuse on the battery terminal and then turn your radio on. ( if your radio  has provision for high pass, low pass, subwoofer control, use them to adjust the sound)
  • Go to your amp and get a mate to turn the volume to 3/4 before you start to set the gains on the amp.
  • Also engage your amps high pass to run the front speakers, and set your rear channel to low pass, start with 100hz and then 80hz,
  • Run it on low to medium volume for a week before the speakers break in then you can adjust the gains later;
  • Turn your ignition to see there is no engine noise;  (mounting the amp on the timber board, will restrict electro magnetic ground loops so you don't get any)
  • ensure your subwoofer is secured in the trunk area, add a subwoofer grill for protection against mums shopping, kids scooter, your golf bag etc..:suave:
  • Let us know how your go.
  • This is a rough impression but you can be more creative and have good wood working skills to do a better custom work using more elaborate tools such as router / Perspex, Custom subwoofer box instead of a sealed / ported prefab box but its a good start to searching for a decent sound in your ride.

Let us know how you go mate!

 

DSC_0065.jpg

 

 

I was going to remove the 4ch amp from my truck which is a Pioneer GM-D8604. Maybe keep my Polk DB+ sub too, but I doubt it. My Pioneer is working great and I'm not trying to blow out windows or anything crazy.     

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I really want to run another 8in sealed box. I'm thinking either Sundown Audio, DC Audio, or maybe one from American Bass. Oh and the last time I attempted to build a box, I damn near cut  my fingers off. 

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I'm running a DC Audio m3 8 in a t-line enclosure. I don't know why you would want to run a single 8 in a sealed enclosure. Those brands you mentioned are for ported.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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1 hour ago, Boomin_tahoe said:

I'm running a DC Audio m3 8 in a t-line enclosure. I don't know why you would want to run a single 8 in a sealed enclosure. Those brands you mentioned are for ported.

For the love off god quit spreading misinformation. Those brands aren't made for ported. I've run plenty of Sundown in sealed boxes. They all make subs that perform fine in either. Also a lot of people prefer small enclosure because they don't want to give up a lot of room. Sometimes you literally act like you have no common sense what so ever.

Edited by Slo_Ride

Refs = PapaGeno21, Goindef154, 92c1v1c, Disarmer, chemmins, 97maxima, kroid777, ithertz, basscort2009, hunterw, mar08052, appleyard, millimac247, jonny101abc, sundownz, cranberryyumyum, mig139, daboyfrumdabx, skateguy92, basebalz13.

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1 hour ago, Warpshift said:

I really want to run another 8in sealed box. I'm thinking either Sundown Audio, DC Audio, or maybe one from American Bass. Oh and the last time I attempted to build a box, I damn near cut  my fingers off. 

Lmao, what the hell where you using? Bout lost a thumb on a table saw once but I was seriously distracted.


Refs = PapaGeno21, Goindef154, 92c1v1c, Disarmer, chemmins, 97maxima, kroid777, ithertz, basscort2009, hunterw, mar08052, appleyard, millimac247, jonny101abc, sundownz, cranberryyumyum, mig139, daboyfrumdabx, skateguy92, basebalz13.

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10 hours ago, Slo_Ride said:

For the love off god quit spreading misinformation. Those brands aren't made for ported. I've run plenty of Sundown in sealed boxes. They all make subs that perform fine in either. Also a lot of people prefer small enclosure because they don't want to give up a lot of room. Sometimes you literally act like you have no common sense what so ever.

 Those formentioned brands ARE made for ported, AND sealed. He didn't mention specific model # just brands. VERY few people I know that wanna run sealed. Ported is always the go to for high performance/high output.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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On 5/16/2019 at 5:02 PM, Slo_Ride said:

For the love off god quit spreading misinformation. Those brands aren't made for ported. I've run plenty of Sundown in sealed boxes. They all make subs that perform fine in either. Also a lot of people prefer small enclosure because they don't want to give up a lot of room. Sometimes you literally act like you have no common sense what so ever.

Tha's one of the biggest reasons why I don't want a ported box. Most that I have seen even for an 8in sub are much bigger than a sealed box. I don't want my entire trunk to be composed of a subwoofer. I do use my car for roadtrips and hauling stuffs too. 

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On 5/17/2019 at 3:41 AM, Boomin_tahoe said:

 Those formentioned brands ARE made for ported, AND sealed. He didn't mention specific model # just brands. VERY few people I know that wanna run sealed. Ported is always the go to for high performance/high output.

I'm wanting to best sound without the ungodly all bass and no highs to my music. Plus lately I have been all about that Retrowave and Space Dreams genres.

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On 5/16/2019 at 5:05 PM, Slo_Ride said:

Lmao, what the hell where you using? Bout lost a thumb on a table saw once but I was seriously distracted.

I wasn't paying attention and the blade caught the glove. i jerked and the whole machine came off the table, ripped the cord out of the wall, and I was done. 

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