Can't push in Hertz subwoofers. Are the blown? Is my amp the right amp for subs?

your amp can run the subs but you are the one running the system to the dirt clipping the hell out of the signal out of dissatisfaction of the output. So what you need is to get a fck ton louder so you dont ever run into this issue again and keep the amp and sub at safe operating levels while still getting brutal amounts of bass. Also never ever mention max power again EVER unless you want everyone in the car audio community to make fun of how nooby you are. its always RMS wattage ratings that matter.

so order of importance 

1s thing you can do is change the enclosure to a more efficient enclosure, do a properly done custom ported box built exactly for the sub's electro mechanical parameters and the car's acoustics in mind. AKA you need a skilled box builder that really knows how to get you loud and sound good.(ones that have proof of winning modern day spl contests doing big numbers with big bandwidth)

2nd thing, bigger amp for more headroom and to account for impedance rise. Right now wired at 1 ohm, you are getting 2-4 ohm power out of your amp. Thats just how the physics of a coil moving through a magnetic field works, the impedance does not stay at 1 ohm, it'll change at every frequency and the amount of power you actually get is FAR less than you can ever think of.  If its the Pioneer GM-D9601, you are at best getting 500 to 800 watts total for both subs wired at 1 ohm after impedance rise.  If your hertz subs are 750 watts RMS(not max) you'll need at least a 2000+ rms amp to get the max performance out of them.  However this is definitely 2nd place compared to the box.

3rd thing, upgrade electrical so you can handle the power. Also clean up your signal, if its an old outdated head unit with low preout voltage, you'll have weak bass from that as well. 

4th thing, upgrade to beefier subs/add more cone area.

Nope most of the guys here do their own installs, own box builds and custom amp enclosures. I agree with jeff top to bottom on what he said as he is dead on. People on here are from all over the world, US, Europe, Middle East, Aussie Land, Asia and so on.

JR69 said:

I apologize for the rookie lingo lol  but I am a rookie and I pay professionals, like i assume most of you boys on here are.  I just wanted to get a second opinion.  since I did spend a decent about of paper to get everything installed. I bought everything from a electronics store called "Visons" , it's in Canada. not sure where majority of everyome on here is from. So naturally I payed there install guys, to do the install. That way my warranty isn't voided. I was just frustrated.   to have my car back not even one day and for that to happen. I just wanted to make sure what happened did and if I wasnt sold and told the wrong equipment to buy. I appreciate the advice and I will be having a talk with my sales people and technicians. Cheers! 

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so called professionals couldnt set your gains right and caused you to blow your subs? Have fun with them.  what you'll hear with a lot of brick and mortar shops most of the times is how they gonna sell you sh*t and make money off you. you literally could have gotten what you wanted without going to hertz and dropping stacks of paper if the installer was worth a sh*t and got the the loudness and sound quality you needed along without you having to go through this blown sub business.

A  very simple test to see if your subs are blown is a small household battery and some speaker wire. Hook them both up as if you were to wire them up to an amp. The cone should move outward a little....or downward, reverse wiring if so. If no movement, then ya, blown subs. Test #2, is place your hand over the dustcap and gently push down, listneing to any scratchy sounds. If so, again, subs are a gonner. Test #3 is a simple DMM will test out the impedance of the subs, If it reads nothing, again, subs are ah gone.