Speaker wiring help

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L1ttlet

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Okay so I currently am running a wolfram125.4 amp that can play 2ohm stable. I currently have a pair of passive crossovers and some 6x9's in the rear.

I am planning on going with 4 super tweeters and 4 6.5 midbass. One super tweeter and one 6.5 midbass per channel. I don't want any passive crossover and want to go active.

Here's my confusion and question, to me it makes absolutely no sense to run two sets of wires from each door to amp to run 2 super tweeters of one channel and then 2 more off another channel and repeat with midbass. What I'm wanting to do is hook up one super tweeter to midbass with a filtering cap ofcourse and then the midbass all the way up to amp, would this change the ohm load and is this even possible? Would it drop down wattage per speaker, would each one be seeing the same amount of power, is the filtering cap a potential fire hazard, does anyone else run their setups like this? So many variables and unanswered questions I have. 

Any help would be awesome, my mind is wandering with this one and google is of very little help.

 
I have that same amp...

Going active means 1 ch of the amp per speaker. And yes the impedance will change if you hook up 2 spkrs per ch on the amp, wheather it's the tweeters or mids. @Jeffdachef can explain a little more than I can. He's more in depth than me.

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Okay so I currently am running a wolfram125.4 amp that can play 2ohm stable. I currently have a pair of passive crossovers and some 6x9's in the rear.

I am planning on going with 4 super tweeters and 4 6.5 midbass. One super tweeter and one 6.5 midbass per channel. I don't want any passive crossover and want to go active.

Here's my confusion and question, to me it makes absolutely no sense to run two sets of wires from each door to amp to run 2 super tweeters of one channel and then 2 more off another channel and repeat with midbass. What I'm wanting to do is hook up one super tweeter to midbass with a filtering cap ofcourse and then the midbass all the way up to amp, would this change the ohm load and is this even possible? Would it drop down wattage per speaker, would each one be seeing the same amount of power, is the filtering cap a potential fire hazard, does anyone else run their setups like this? So many variables and unanswered questions I have. 

Any help would be awesome, my mind is wandering with this one and google is of very little help.
thats not going active at all.  Going active means you have independent control of the tweeter and midbass so you can actually adjust the levels/crossover/time alignment seperately. When you wire a tweeter to midbass like that its just a ghetto ass wiring and setup job thats gonna sound like absolute sh*t.  You also need an active capable head unit ahem *pioneer*. Dont be lazy, run two sets of wires one dedicated for tweeters and one dedicated for midbass its not a can I or cant I. Its literally sound fking amazing or sound like dogsh*t.  

 
Well damn, now I'm rethinking everything, thank u for the info. So question, what size speaker wire should suffice for up to 300watts of power rms, since now I will need to run 2 sets of wires for my build.

 
You gotta ask about what gauge speaker wire to use for 300 watts, you shouldn't have a system to begin with.

That said, I'm using 16 gauge for my Polks to the amp. I wouldn't go  past 12....you will hear no difference and is a bit overkill.

 
I have 12 now and it is just to much to be running with all the ither cables I have running like a 9 wire for the 3 volt meters, rca's bass cable, remote wire, fan wire. Just to much for one side. I was thinking 14awg or 16awg, I'll go with the smaller as I have hardly any room left to run cables through car. 16 awg, u say for how many watts u predicting?

 
You gotta ask about what gauge speaker wire to use for 300 watts, you shouldn't have a system to begin with.

 

That said, I'm using 16 gauge for my Polks to the amp. I wouldn't go  past 12....you will hear no difference and is a bit overkill.
And we all gotta start somewhere, better to ask questions from experienced individuals in my book than to waste money and have to try again. Rather ask and get it right the first time. Ur always helpful, I take it u been in car audio for quite sometime.

 
125rms. As I said I'm not gonna be running much watts so no need to run any thicker gauge wire. Just not necessary and you 'll spend more time fighting it to get it right vs using smaller gauge wiring. 

And to answer your last question yes. Been into it since the 90s.

 
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