Power handling of Dayton Audio components

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I have been running my current setup for around 4 years now and looking to move my amps off of the current amp rack and mount them to the back side of my back seats. I found that there was a newer version of my amps released in a nano trim which cuts inch(s) off in size which would make life a little easier when I do the re-mount. The new amps provide more power and am hoping to replace only the amps and not replace speakers.

Sub = Sundown audio SA-12 D2 powered by Soundstream RUB1.1000D running at 1 ohm 1000w x 1

Sub rated at 750w RMS

Replacement amp would be 1500w x 1 RMS  (Soundstream RN1.3000D)

Mids = Dayton Audio RS180-4 7", rated at 60w RMS

Highs = Dayton Audio RS75-4 3", rated at 15w RMS

Powered by Soundstream RUB4.500D at 4 ohm 75w x 4 RMS

Replacement amp would be 125w x 4 RMS (Soundstream RN4.1400D)

I have a feeling the sub can handle this power as Sundown audio under rated the power handling and have seen videos on youtube where people are pushing more than 1500 watts to the sub

I think the main concern is my mids & highs. When I originally did this install I was provided advice that the daytons can also handle much more then their rating. Please let me know what you think and if upgrading these speakers would be a good idea. Recommendations would be great.

Thanks1

 
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The newer soundstream amplifiers don't hold a candle to the older ones since they were sold off to Power Acoustik which supposedly makes their stuff in China. I'm sure Jeff or someone else would know better for sure.

 
as for the power handling, just raise it up until you hear the speaker gets stressed out or starts sounding peaky without getting much louder, thats a sign of it reaching thermal compression. You can have as big of an amp as you want.

 
So there is no true power limit to a speaker? I thought it was best to keep the amp RMS <= sub RMS, or as close to it as possible.

 
So there is no true power limit to a speaker? I thought it was best to keep the amp RMS <= sub RMS, or as close to it as possible.
nope. you can have a 15000 watt amp on a midbass and still be fine as long as you set the gains/head unit volume/attenuation levels to what the mid can handle.  You always have more amp power than not enough. Headroom is key to having longevity and a clean signal with ice cold operating temperatures along with low THD and overall sound quality. When you dont have enough amp power you run into distortion, clipping, heat from being overdriven, poor sound quality, wierd noises bad voltage drop, shorter lifespan etc....

 
Good to know, so maybe this upgrade ultimately helps. I'm adding 500 watts to my sub and 50 watts to my mids/highs and in the long run its for the better. Still debating on spending $300 on these amps for a system that sounds good as-is. 

 
Good to know, so maybe this upgrade ultimately helps. I'm adding 500 watts to my sub and 50 watts to my mids/highs and in the long run its for the better. Still debating on spending $300 on these amps for a system that sounds good as-is. 
do upgrades one at a time. If you want some real power for small footprint. This will absolutely destroy that all those sound streams.

https://www.amazon.com/Taramp-HD3000-1-Stable-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00FGULS78

as for the 4 channel I highly doubt that soundstream can come close to the power number it claims. Safer to go with a tried and true performer thats been tested to do more power than rated on the amp dyno.

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8704-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B07N8HPTMC

However you wont feel too much of a difference maybe a couple volume knobs of output with the amp swap if your box is already efficient.

 
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do upgrades one at a time. If you want some real power for small footprint. This will absolutely destroy that all those sound streams.

https://www.amazon.com/Taramp-HD3000-1-Stable-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00FGULS78

as for the 4 channel I highly doubt that soundstream can come close to the power number it claims. Safer to go with a tried and true performer thats been tested to do more power than rated on the amp dyno.

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8704-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B07N8HPTMC

However you wont feel too much of a difference maybe a couple volume knobs of output with the amp swap if your box is already efficient.
I honestly wasn't planning on upgrading, I was only looking to change the placement of my amps. But I have extra cash to play with so I thought I would invest in some smaller amps, and in the process possibly increase the power. I am hoping to keep the same brand/look of amps which is why I picked those 2 nano soundstreams. 

You make a good point, I don't expect my component or single 12" sub to put out more than they do now. I am pretty content with the current output, but if I can feed it more power and reduce the gain and improve the output while increasing the longevity of the speakers then I am for it.

You don't think 3000 watts to my Sundown SA12 D2 will kill it? Also, I do not want to upgrade my electrical system/batteries.

 
I honestly wasn't planning on upgrading, I was only looking to change the placement of my amps. But I have extra cash to play with so I thought I would invest in some smaller amps, and in the process possibly increase the power. I am hoping to keep the same brand/look of amps which is why I picked those 2 nano soundstreams. 

You make a good point, I don't expect my component or single 12" sub to put out more than they do now. I am pretty content with the current output, but if I can feed it more power and reduce the gain and improve the output while increasing the longevity of the speakers then I am for it.

You don't think 3000 watts to my Sundown SA12 D2 will kill it? Also, I do not want to upgrade my electrical system/batteries.
you dont have to use all 3000, just use enough till the sub gets stressed a bit then back it off. Or set the gain via your voltage drops. Just letting you know these amps are designed to be very efficient much more than the rubicon series which were current hogs that didnt output much power for how much it consumed. These taramps put out a sh*t ton of power while your electrical system is cruising by unphased.

if you want to keep the same amps taramps has a 4 channel too. this is an amp dyno of the DS 440 smaller brother of the DS 800x4. 

https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-DS800X42OHM-800-Ch-Ohm/dp/B074KRNVLF/ref=asc_df_B074KRNVLF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312140517066&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=703084901035164632&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031569&hvtargid=pla-569507371591&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62501500059&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312140517066&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=703084901035164632&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031569&hvtargid=pla-569507371591






 
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Wow, these Taramps look awesome, just about every dyno I've seen they output way over than their rating. I am no Soundstream fanboy by any means, I went with them originally because the price was/is right and I remember they were good back in the day, but I don't think they are what they used to be. For roughly the same price I can get Taramps and get smaller form-factor amps that are more efficient and output more power, seems like a no-brainer.

DS 800x4 = 544W RMS (4 x 136W RMS) @ 4 ohms. With this I will be pushing an additional 60 watts to each of my mids and highs, nearly double. 

HD 3000 = 3000W RMS (1 x 3000W RMS) @ 1 ohm. With this I am tripling the power going to my sub, possibly more as it is doubtful my current amp is outputting 1000W.

I have a few questions:

1. When you say 'dont use all 3000W', I thought the gain isn't really a 'wattage-knob', it only controls how hard the amp is listening to the source. How would I go about setting the gains without blowing my speakers? 
Edit: I found a video for how to set the gain using a multimeter (sq root of watts * ohms)

2. The 4 channel does not have a frequency adjustment in the cross-over, only a control for LPF/FULL/HPF. Will I need an external crossover to feed my mids and highs? My current amps have a frequency control and I am also using a coil as a LPF on my mids. 

3. I currently have a custom mounted pot to control the level of my sub (remote bass control on SS amp), the sub amp by Taramps does not appear to have this, only a jack for monitoring things. Is it possible to build this custom into my RCA lines?
Edit: Just found this: PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller

4. Will my stock battery + alt be enough to run these amps, even if I am only feeding my sub say 1000-1500 watts? I've read that these amps can catch fire if the voltage drops too low.

 
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