Beginner multi size subwoofer setup question

Trash

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I was thinking of attempting a build using a Fi IB318 v2 in Infinite Baffle being 5hz-45 and two skar SDR-8s in separate IB being 45-200hz (The rest of the system would be four 6.25's and two 1.5's). Is it possible to phase in any way to achieve a solid sounding slope from 40-60hz with this setup? I really want this 18, but I don't want to give up so much room from 40-60hz with only 6.25s. For a little context it would be a 2001 solara with the 18 (baffle to trunk) where the rear seats are and the 8s on the rear interior panels.

 
Even when trying to get down to 10hz you think an 18 in infinite baffle is going to play 80hz nice and supportive? A 6.5 playing 45-60 hz is gonna compete with the spl of a dedicated 18?

 
why are you so concerned about playing down to 10hz....cruisin around playing test tones? i would filter em at 25-80 with some eq and call it a day, dont make it more complicated than it has to be....thats my opinion

 
first off unless you listen to pure re-bassed music, literally ZERO normal music out there right now goes down past 28hz.  Second. Mixing seperate sized subs will get you absolutely nowhere. AKA phase cancellation. They produce different waves at different locations and the sound waves fight eachother and most likely cancel eachother out or create massive distortion. Its literally widely known as the dumbest thing you can do in car audio next to cutting a stock head unit harness.   

You can use a dedicated midbass driver up front in the doors FULLY acoustically treated and enclosed turning the door into a proper speaker enclosure with deadening materials such as CLD and MLV and closed cell foam.

Then in the kick panels have some dedicated midrange speakers fire up on axis in the kick panels with kick panel pods. Then you have tweeters up top for imaging. This requires an 8 channel dsp, two 4 channel amps 100 rms or higher per channel, bridge one of the the amp to the midbass, the other ran to the midrange and tweeter. DSP controls all the crossover functions. This will fill in the gap you are missing and pull the bass imaging up front making you feel like the bass is on the dash rather than coming behind you. This is the proper way to do midbass. Your idea with those skars is 100% guaranteed to fail because science and physics plus i've done it before when i was young and dumb too always garbage results. 

 
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