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Cheezledzul

Beginner system/build question, head unit and speakers?

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Thank you in advance for any advice. I apologize for the long post. I hate to be that guy, im not sure what the culture is like on this forum, but im going to ask something people may get annoyed by on other forums. I just dont think googling best car audio is the right way to go about buying car audio. So fare warning if you dont want to help then I appreciate the visit and good luck with your future endeavors lol.

If this type of post isnt allowed let me know. Otherwise this is just the first step to many noob questions and research lol.

Would $500 for a head unit and speakers be sufficient? About $300 and 200 respectively. Also suggestions?
I know it is personal preference so let me try to explain.
 
I finally bought a used car instead of leasing so its time to put a little money into the sound quality. 2005 Nissan morano. From what I can tell it's a double din, front door 6"×9", back door 6-1/2". I'll get an adapter if needed, I think they're easy to install if I remember correctly.
Im not in the car a lot or for long periods of time but I am the type of person that needs to do things "right". At the same time I dont consider myself an audiophile by any means. I listen mostly to 80/90s hip hop, edm, and some reggaeton. I enjoy the highs and range more than loud ear cleaning bass. That seems just ridiculous to me but to each their own. I like the vocals and I think tweeters more than just overpowering woofers.
Example I'd never buy beats. They feel cheap to me and just sound like the focus is cheap bass and idk why people like that. No offense though. I use Sony mdr-7506, I've heard better but for $100 idk...
 
Back to the equipment. I have had a Rockford 800a2 amp and 12" kicker impulse sub & box for a long time given to me by my cousins. I will post the info when I get home.
I would like to use those if possible for now and upgrade in the future. But if you guys think they're complete junk please let me know or if they will severely effect the head unit and speakers.
 
I am willing to spend more than the $500 if necessary but for my situation I do not think a $2k+ build is necessary. At the same time if Im better off going to walmart and spending $200 than $500 then I definitely want to spend more. With a lot of my hobbies theres a price range where you have a big jump in quality. So for example with audio if $100-$200 head units are pretty much the same but a $300 unit is where you start getting into quality gear then thats where I want to be. I dont need a ton of flashy features for the head unit either. Sound quality is priority. 
 
From past research it was my understanding head units should really be where you spend the money first because it will supply more power to everything and adds channels? Among other features. I dont want the audio to get drowned out by bass like my first car so I figured head unit and speakers are the starting point. Looking at maybe a $1k system when all said and done.
I do remember reading that maybe an amp should be an important first step before speakers and a sub but not sure if Im remembering or understanding it correctly. If it is then thats what I will get aside from the receiver.
 
Im going to be installing everything myself. Im very handy and will thoroughly do research to make sure im doing everything correct. I installed an amp, sub and head unit in my first car ever in 2013 but that was basic equipment. 
 
Thanks again!
 
Edited by Cheezledzul

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requirements for a head unit. 

4 volt pre-out or higher. 13 band EQ+, time alignment, network crossovers, 24 bit dacs.   AKA most of pioneer's offerings. You can go as cheap as you can as long as it maintains these stats, they use the same audio chip from the flagship 800 dollar line to the 200 dollar line the only difference is processor, graphics and toy features. You can also just keep your stock head unit and forgo a head unit completely in the signal line. There's a Dayton audio DSP with bluetooth dongle (that allows for APTX streaming) for 180 dollars and it will be 10000x better than any head unit on the market in terms of sound quality and audio tuning capability.  Bluetooth stream to the dongle and dongle, audio is processed inside the DSP then goes straight to the amps and to the speakers all audio adjustments and tuning is done on your phone. All that equates to better results even with a spotify 320kbps stream than if you use a FLAC/lossless file via CD or AUX like zero comparison sounds that much better.

As for the audio setup, there's not much 6x9s out there that are decent other than image dynamics, Hybrid audio technologies etc.. Your range of capable drivers are better if you get an adapter. You want to focus all the money and power to the front, rears are completely useless and actually harmful to sound quality because you will destroy your soundstage by pulling it back vs having your music directly on your dash like a virtual studio concert performance on your dash.  You will need an amp for the speakers, clarity needs power a lot of it. a pioneer gm 8704 should be good for budget amp. 

those sonys arent much sound quality wise, more for studio work, there's no life in the sound in my opinion, midbass, soundstage, actual details is nonexistent. Jump up to the massdrop hd 6xx or hifiman he4xx  with an amp and you'll hear what you've been missing all your life haha.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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The amp is a Rockford 800a2

The sub is an older Kicker 12" Impulse (I think I'll double check the size) 

Edited by Cheezledzul

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20 minutes ago, Jeffdachef said:

requirements for a head unit. 

4 volt pre-out or higher. 13 band EQ+, time alignment, network crossovers, 24 bit dacs.   AKA most of pioneer's offerings. You can go as cheap as you can as long as it maintains these stats, they use the same audio chip from the flagship 800 dollar line to the 200 dollar line the only difference is processor, graphics and toy features. You can also just keep your stock head unit and forgo a head unit completely in the signal line. There's a Dayton audio DSP with bluetooth dongle (that allows for APTX streaming) for 180 dollars and it will be 10000x better than any head unit on the market in terms of sound quality and audio tuning capability.  Bluetooth stream to the dongle and dongle, audio is processed inside the DSP then goes straight to the amps and to the speakers all audio adjustments and tuning is done on your phone. All that equates to better results even with a spotify 320kbps stream than if you use a FLAC/lossless file via CD or AUX like zero comparison sounds that much better.

As for the audio setup, there's not much 6x9s out there that are decent other than image dynamics, Hybrid audio technologies etc.. Your range of capable drivers are better if you get an adapter. You want to focus all the money and power to the front, rears are completely useless and actually harmful to sound quality because you will destroy your soundstage by pulling it back vs having your music directly on your dash like a virtual studio concert performance on your dash.  You will need an amp for the speakers, clarity needs power a lot of it. a pioneer gm 8704 should be good for budget amp. 

 

So what size and how much would you suggest spending on speakers? Should I just leave the stock rear then and put the money into the front and get the dongle to use with the stock head unit? Do I need to look up the stock units specs and make sure they will match the specs you provided? If I'm understanding correctly I could get a $60 pioneer unit as long as it has the specs you provided? I just wont have Bill's and whistles that dont have anything to do with sound quality?

Also if I want all the sound up front, it's probably going to be just me and My girlfriend anyways, is the trunk too far for the sub? I'll need an amp for the speakers and a separate one for the sub?

Edited by Cheezledzul

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Just now, Cheezledzul said:

So what size and how much would you suggest spending on speakers? Should I just leave the stock rear then and put the money into the front and get the dongle to use with the stock head unit? If I'm understanding correctly I could get a $60 pioneer unit as long as it has the specs you provided? I just wont have Bill's and whistles that dont have anything to do with sound quality?

Also if I want all the sound up front, it's probably going to be just me and My girlfriend anyways, is the trunk too far for the sub? I'll need an amp for the speakers and a separate one for the sub?

the dongle means you wont even be using the head unit at all, its out of the equation. You wont have rear speakers unless you get additional amplifier channels for it.  a 60 dollar pioneer head unit wont have any of those features and the actual audio chip quality inside is garbage, the sound sucks out the box.  

The setup will be tweeter on channels 1 and 2 on the amp, midrange on 3 and 4 on the amp sub on 7 and 8. Crossed over by the dsp. 6.5 speakers usually have the best selection of quality drivers at a decent price it opens up your choices of drivers from 3-4 (decent ones with the 6x9) to several hundreds to choose from with 6.5s.  

Dont worry about distance from the sub, there's different physics on how subs work in a car. It'll be fine in the trunk. 


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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41 minutes ago, Jeffdachef said:

the dongle means you wont even be using the head unit at all, its out of the equation. You wont have rear speakers unless you get additional amplifier channels for it.  a 60 dollar pioneer head unit wont have any of those features and the actual audio chip quality inside is garbage, the sound sucks out the box.  

The setup will be tweeter on channels 1 and 2 on the amp, midrange on 3 and 4 on the amp sub on 7 and 8. Crossed over by the dsp. 6.5 speakers usually have the best selection of quality drivers at a decent price it opens up your choices of drivers from 3-4 (decent ones with the 6x9) to several hundreds to choose from with 6.5s.  

Dont worry about distance from the sub, there's different physics on how subs work in a car. It'll be fine in the trunk. 

Sorry. Really confused now lol. So the list of what I'll be getting and using is

1 dongle, 2 mid door speakers, 2 small tweeters, 2 amps and 1 sub? Or 1 amp for the 2 speakers and 1 sub? Would the amp and sub I have work well?

Can you reccomend some tweeters/mids? Would $300 total be enough for something decent or should I spend more like $400/500 not including the dongle and amp.

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your dsp aka your new head unit.  Has features of most 600 dollar + dsps out there.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-408-4x8-dsp-digital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-bt40-bluetooth-data-and-streaming-usb-interface-for-dsp-408--230-502

your amps

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8704-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B07N8HPTMC

amazing pair of tweeters sounding better than a lot of 200+ dollar tweeters. These are based off the old alpine type X models.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-alpine-HIEND-28MM-dome-car-tweeter-4ohm-50W-vifa-XT25-PK-scanspeak-seas-/222186264721

2 of these mids (sold single)

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/

So total you'll be spending around 500$ for a full setup and your sub will be repurposed.  

When you get it in, we'll help you with the tuning process. I'd recommend downloaded the dayton dsp app on playstore and play around with it and see its potential yourself.

 


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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2 hours ago, Jeffdachef said:

your dsp aka your new head unit.  Has features of most 600 dollar + dsps out there.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-408-4x8-dsp-digital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-bt40-bluetooth-data-and-streaming-usb-interface-for-dsp-408--230-502

your amps

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8704-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B07N8HPTMC

amazing pair of tweeters sounding better than a lot of 200+ dollar tweeters. These are based off the old alpine type X models.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-alpine-HIEND-28MM-dome-car-tweeter-4ohm-50W-vifa-XT25-PK-scanspeak-seas-/222186264721

2 of these mids (sold single)

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/

So total you'll be spending around 500$ for a full setup and your sub will be repurposed.  

When you get it in, we'll help you with the tuning process. I'd recommend downloaded the dayton dsp app on playstore and play around with it and see its potential yourself.

 

Might as well link me to any cheap kits and wiring I'll need to install everything 🤣

Thank you btw. I would have never figured this all out on my own. 

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43 minutes ago, Cheezledzul said:

Might as well link me to any cheap kits and wiring I'll need to install everything 🤣

Thank you btw. I would have never figured this all out on my own. 

you'll need to run wire from your amp to your doors and tweeters. the stock wires usually are too small to handle anything over 50 watts. 

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Car-Audio-Sky-High/dp/B00MR58WVU/ref=asc_df_B00MR58WVU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194017009123&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11944135730442326142&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031569&hvtargid=pla-315259822033&psc=1

connectors for the speaker and butt connectors for your dsp wiring. 

https://www.amazon.com/Elite-M-Terminals-Connectors-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B01M0QT0MF/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=wire+connectors&qid=1556335416&s=gateway&sr=8-20

one for each amp.

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=amp+kit&qid=1556334692&s=electronics&sr=1-5

To crimp the big wires, you might also need a wire crimper for the smaller wires. Or you can just go to your local car audio shop and ask them to crimp the big wires for you for free if they nice enough.

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hammer+crimp&qid=1556335330&s=electronics&sr=8-1

 


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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10 hours ago, Jeffdachef said:

I cant pick the car up for 2 weeks so figured I'd start planning now. 

Is there anything I should worry about buying used? 

Also I didnt think about having to buy mids and tweeters. I could go up another 200 to say 700 total. Do you think that would give me a significant improvement in sound quality over the speakers you suggested?

I didnt download the app yet but would it be solely music I'm playing through my phone or am I hooking up the radio as well? And I take it the back speakers will be left disconnected?

No offence seems like a little bit of a waste lol. But I understand I know nothing about audio and trust what you're saying. Going to research it on my own regardless but never even heard of that. I always thought you replace all of them even when going to a local audio shop lol. 

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7 hours ago, Cheezledzul said:

I cant pick the car up for 2 weeks so figured I'd start planning now. 

Is there anything I should worry about buying used? 

Also I didnt think about having to buy mids and tweeters. I could go up another 200 to say 700 total. Do you think that would give me a significant improvement in sound quality over the speakers you suggested?

I didnt download the app yet but would it be solely music I'm playing through my phone or am I hooking up the radio as well? And I take it the back speakers will be left disconnected?

No offence seems like a little bit of a waste lol. But I understand I know nothing about audio and trust what you're saying. Going to research it on my own regardless but never even heard of that. I always thought you replace all of them even when going to a local audio shop lol. 

Not really. The ones i suggested hit waay harder than their weight class by far when ran active. this video sorta explains what i'm talking about.  What you know is a typical mediocre joe blow setup that gets scammed by the car audio shops for mediocre performance.   The kind of setup I'm talking about is whats used in high class competition cars or the really well done daily drivers. 

You will not use the head unit at all, just straight up music from your phone.   There's a little controller to can get too if you wish.  Back speakers disconnected but the front speakers have full power from your 4 channel amp.  your stock head unit only outputs like 3-5 watts rms the amp suggested is tested 125 rms per channel +.  You'll be heard several football fields away and the MOST important thing is soundstage. Music is recorded in 2.1 NOTt 4.1 or 5.1 there was never supposed to be rear speakers in the equation in the first place. All it does is drag the sound back.  Proper sound quality is when you can literally see a whole concert live on your car's dash. You can literally see the artist walking left or right, guitars on one side, bass on the other, drums sweeping across the dash etc.... You literally dont get that when rear speakers are used in the equation. Its not really a waste when its a full blown upgrade when done right. More speakers doesnt mean better, all that means is much more sound waves and cancellation along with localization going on.

 


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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thing with buying random component speakers with a passive crossover is, you have ZERO control over the crossover point where the mid and tweeter is. which is when the mid drops off and the tweeter picks up in the treble.   So depending on your vehicle acoustics you may get okay sound or you may get garbage sound, luck of the lottery.  However when using active crossovers on the DSP you can set your own crossover points making sure 100% you have a perfect blend between midrange and tweeter what this means is you have a guaranteed smooth frequency response along with the ability to time delay each midrange and tweeter for a perfect center stage.  If you dont know what that means, each speaker is a different distant from your ear... the dsp technology delays the audio coming from the speaker closer to you so it reaches your ear the same time as the farther speakers. This creates a virtual sound stage in your car centered on your dash.  Next level sh*t not a basic bitch setup hahaha


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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@Jeffdachef I'm still trying to translate your last 2 posts lol. But in the mean time, just to make sure I'm understanding right, the amp and sub I currently own would be paired. More so they're good enough quality? Is there a real noticable difference in sub woofer sound quality? Like I said I care more about sound quality then overpowering bass but I def need some thump. I feel like the first setup had in my first car sounded fuzzy and not a clean thump like you would expect. Not sure if it was because of poor tuning or quality of the gear or both.  I really hated how the subs sounded. Bass just sounded and felt like a vibration not a thump. 

Also do I need any sound proofing in the doors? It's just hollow thin metal or plastic 

Also the lack of other commenters leads me to believe either my post pissed them off or everything you're suggesting is 150% perfect and nobody has any other options. I'm hoping it's the second lol. 

Thanks again, cant say it enough

Edited by Cheezledzul

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1 hour ago, Cheezledzul said:

@Jeffdachef I'm still trying to translate your last 2 posts lol. But in the mean time, just to make sure I'm understanding right, the amp and sub I currently own would be paired. More so they're good enough quality? Is there a real noticable difference in sub woofer sound quality? Like I said I care more about sound quality then overpowering bass but I def need some thump. I feel like the first setup had in my first car sounded fuzzy and not a clean thump like you would expect. Not sure if it was because of poor tuning or quality of the gear or both.  I really hated how the subs sounded. Bass just sounded and felt like a vibration not a thump. 

Also do I need any sound proofing in the doors? It's just hollow thin metal or plastic 

Also the lack of other commenters leads me to believe either my post pissed them off or everything you're suggesting is 150% perfect and nobody has any other options. I'm hoping it's the second lol. 

Thanks again, cant say it enough

You'll find that when someone offers good advice, and takes time out of their day to do it (like Jeff), there's no real need for us to step in aside from helping time-wise. 

Can you clarify what you mean by "pairing the amp and sub?" I think you're trying to ask if the sub is ok and yeah it is for now, but it really depends on what it sounds like when you're finished and whether you're happy or not. You hint that you don't like it.. Kicker subs can get loud in the right box with the right tuning, but the market right now has very (relatively) good drivers for <$200 shipped to your door so I would recommend getting something other than the kicker, as well as building your own enclosure (or paying a reputable shop to do so). 

To get to the point where you feel like there's pressure and not just vibration you simply need more output. Tuning a system is more like lining up a bunch of out of place lines than it is throwing a bunch of stuff in a car and powering it.


I AM The Future of personal transportation, NOW!!
Pretty sure everyone on this site hates you (@JohnKuthe) more then me and that's very hard to accomplish.

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12 hours ago, wew lad said:

You'll find that when someone offers good advice, and takes time out of their day to do it (like Jeff), there's no real need for us to step in aside from helping time-wise. 

Can you clarify what you mean by "pairing the amp and sub?" I think you're trying to ask if the sub is ok and yeah it is for now, but it really depends on what it sounds like when you're finished and whether you're happy or not. You hint that you don't like it.. Kicker subs can get loud in the right box with the right tuning, but the market right now has very (relatively) good drivers for <$200 shipped to your door so I would recommend getting something other than the kicker, as well as building your own enclosure (or paying a reputable shop to do so). 

To get to the point where you feel like there's pressure and not just vibration you simply need more output. Tuning a system is more like lining up a bunch of out of place lines than it is throwing a bunch of stuff in a car and powering it.

Yes what I meant was is the sub going to be cohesive with the additions I'm putting with it. 

But I also was asking if I'm wiring 1 amp. My current one, to the sub and then buying a 2nd amp to run the tweeters and mids

Any recommendations for subs around $200? Also how would I know what type and size box to build for whatever sub I get? Does the company provide recommended specifications?

If possible I'd like to keep it on the smaller side. My hobbies require a lot of gear so I'd like to have trunk space. But this isnt the sole priority. I can always work around the box. 

Edited by Cheezledzul

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Mate, if your hobbies, require trunk space then seriously consider infinite baffle.  Its very efficient as long as you have a subwoofer with low FS and high QTS, basically most subwoofer would suit this category.

20150219_135751.jpg

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+1 for the infinite baffle, only if it's done properly. 

I'll let Jeff recommend a ~$200 driver seeing that I haven't really touched SQ Drivers for a few years. I've heard great things about the Image Dynamics lines http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/idmax

With the proper ported enclosure, driver, power, and orientation in the trunk you can still get loud without sacrificing your whole trunk. Relatively loud, that is. Something with decent SQ and decent output is all you need, and will sound better than 99% of whats out there

Whether you need two amps is up to you. You can get something like a 900.5 5 channel and wire everything active or you can get one 4 channel and one mono. Or you could leave the doors stock.. which would be pretty gross lol

Edited by wew lad

I AM The Future of personal transportation, NOW!!
Pretty sure everyone on this site hates you (@JohnKuthe) more then me and that's very hard to accomplish.

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2 hours ago, wew lad said:

+1 for the infinite baffle, only if it's done properly. 

I'll let Jeff recommend a ~$200 driver seeing that I haven't really touched SQ Drivers for a few years. I've heard great things about the Image Dynamics lines http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/idmax

With the proper ported enclosure, driver, power, and orientation in the trunk you can still get loud without sacrificing your whole trunk. Relatively loud, that is. Something with decent SQ and decent output is all you need, and will sound better than 99% of whats out there

Whether you need two amps is up to you. You can get something like a 900.5 5 channel and wire everything active or you can get one 4 channel and one mono. Or you could leave the doors stock.. which would be pretty gross lol

Lol definitely dont want anything to be gross. 

How do I figure out what the proper orientation and ported enclosure is for the sub and my trunk? Just to reiterate I'm getting a 05 Nissan morano. I believe the trunk doesn't have a cover either. 

Also I was asking based off @Jeffdachef reccomendations he provided a 4 channel amp I believe for the 2 tweeters and 2 mids. Which means he was planning to have me use my current amp and sub together right?

Lastly, just started doing some research. I know I'm getting ahead of myself with this question but with the dsp and time alignment. If I am setting it for the distance to the drivers ears what happens to the sound for the person next to me in the passenger seat? I'd I set it for the distance to the drivers seat will it noticeably decrease the sound quality for the passenger? 

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1 hour ago, Cheezledzul said:

Lol definitely dont want anything to be gross. 

How do I figure out what the proper orientation and ported enclosure is for the sub and my trunk? Just to reiterate I'm getting a 05 Nissan morano. I believe the trunk doesn't have a cover either. 

Also I was asking based off @Jeffdachef reccomendations he provided a 4 channel amp I believe for the 2 tweeters and 2 mids. Which means he was planning to have me use my current amp and sub together right?

Lastly, just started doing some research. I know I'm getting ahead of myself with this question but with the dsp and time alignment. If I am setting it for the distance to the drivers ears what happens to the sound for the person next to me in the passenger seat? I'd I set it for the distance to the drivers seat will it noticeably decrease the sound quality for the passenger? 

You try out different orientations. Your box should be about the size of a side table or smaller so you can rotate it. Generally speaking sub towards the trunk works the best but I'm not an expert on loading in cars. 

Regarding the 4 channel, yes you would run the doors active with the tweeters turned down significantly so one driver is one channel. 2 mids, 2 tweets. Then of course the sub channel. 

The passenger won't really notice unless they've trained their ears well enough. If you put enough time into it (not worth it) you can build two presets and tune each side individually. Basic EQ, filters, and TA will be more than enough

You could do it all pretty decently with <$1k. That's including two new amps, a taramps md3000.1 and some clone 4 channel like the ppi900.4, nvx 900.4, etc

Edited by wew lad

I AM The Future of personal transportation, NOW!!
Pretty sure everyone on this site hates you (@JohnKuthe) more then me and that's very hard to accomplish.

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20 hours ago, DRBOOM said:

Mate, if your hobbies, require trunk space then seriously consider infinite baffle.  Its very efficient as long as you have a subwoofer with low FS and high QTS, basically most subwoofer would suit this category.

20150219_135751.jpg

Is that amp you're using the same one I have? Rockford 800a2? How is it?

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