Mazda 3 build

A good EQ will allow you to get what youre missing. That is, if the JL's arent **** like i read everywhere else, not many people like them. Whats the HP crossover point on the mids?

baldwaldo99 said:

Help! I’m running JL Audio c3’s component in the front, c2’s coaxial in the rear and a 10 “  w6 sub in the trunk. It’s all running off an rd900/5, LC7i, and a TWK88 DSP. I love ALL music from Etta James to Datsik. I feel like I am missing some mid bass. I purchased another rd900/5 so I can lose the crossovers and grab either 2 jl 6” subs ( don’t know where to put them), 2 8”s (same prob) and another 10” w6 in the trunk. Do I need a new aftermarket head unit? I’m also sound deadening as much as I can. Where do I start?

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.... dude you are throwing money down the drain, stop it and lets focus on getting real results without throwing money away at JL audio which are **** for value to performance ratio. 

What you first want to do is to fully acoustically treat your doors then turn them into ideal speaker enclosures. Like how this acoustics engineer preps his doors for god tier midbass 

2nd return that JL, put the rear coaxial on head unit power then run active with the front components meaning you ditch the passive crossover tweeters on channel 1 and 2, mids on 3 and 4. Rears royally f**k up the sound stage by pulling it back vs a live performance on your dash if you care about any sort of sound quality, dont put any power or attention to them at all music is recorded in 2.1 not 4.1 not 5.1 you cannot effectively create some virtual surround sound the best possibility is a perfect center stage on your dash.

you have a friggen JL DSP there's no reason for you not to actually use it the way its intended to. As for the sub, Build an efficient custom ported box or even a 1/4 wave transmission line enclosure if you want more output. I'm guessing you have a prefab sealed/ported which is going to be junk for performance.