.87 cubic foot box - too big for a 10" too small for a 12"

4BangerStanger

CarAudio.com Regular
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Number of subs preferred:. 1

Size preferred (if configuration allows):. 10 or 12

Budget: $100-$150

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): 500-600 watts

Space available (take measurements, do not guess):

Goals: clean set up that isn't super heavy or take up a lot of trunk space

Listening habits: mostly rap, but will include everything from country to musicals

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: have no brand preference, looking for best bang for the buck. 

Hello all. My story is not unlike a million others you've probably all heard. Used to be really into car audio 15-20 years ago and want to get back in to it. I'm planning a small system for my 2015 Mustang. I don't want to add a bunch of weight or lose my entire trunk. For the enclosure, I think I've decided to go with the one in the link below. It's pretty compact and custom tailored to fit the trunk. I can and have built boxes in the past. I'm just not sure I want to this time around. 

https://www.zenclosures.com/2015-Mustang-Subwoofer-Box-p/mustang15t1rfhalfbox.htm

For the amp, I've been looking at the RF R500X1D for the sub, I'm thinking a Sundown E-12 V.3 D4 or the 10" version. I've read a ton of good stuff about Sundown, so figured I'd give it a shot. My question is based on the volume of the box, .87 cubic feet, would it be better to go with the  10" (which calls for .5 cf) or the 12" (which calls for 1 CF). I guess essentially what I'm asking is if it's better to have a box that's too big for the driver or too small (could always load it up with polyfill).  I'd prefer the 12” personally because I like that deeper bass. But, don't want to sacrifice performance for the sake of a larger driver. 

I'm not married to either of these pieces of equipment. So, feel free to offer up alternative suggestions that would work better. If it matters, everything will likely be run from a Sony head unit. I'm waiting for the XAV- AX7000 to come out this summer. Which is fine, because I still have to save up for the Scosche dash kit, which is crazy expensive compared to the old $20 dash kits I remember :)

 
Sealed?.. Polyfill?

You want deeper bass go ported Imo.

I think you'll be seriously underwhelmed with either sub utilizing a sealed enclosure.

9fygxN.jpg


If you actually think that'll do... ok  

I'd throw it in a ported box, designed for your music if possible, especially with the power you're planning

 
Id go Kicker CompR in that case. That box should work fine with it. Im guessing you have an amp already cause $150 wont get you much in the way of a powered sub unless youre open to Pioneer.

 
Id go Kicker CompR in that case. 
I know you're new to this forum... A sealed box guy and Kicker fanboy to boot... do you even know what low bass is?

I'm trying and failing to understand your thinking with these "recommendations" you seem persist with.

Op ought to try for ported if his system includes lower power and he wants output with extension... not sealed

I know space may be at a premium in his car/trunk but I'd find a way to fit something like this...

Jbsz6p.jpg


That's not even as small as It could get... jeez..."Kicker... Sealed"

 
Sealed?.. Polyfill?

You want deeper bass go ported Imo.

I think you'll be seriously underwhelmed with either sub utilizing a sealed enclosure.



If you actually think that'll do... ok  

I'd throw it in a ported box, designed for your music if possible, especially with the power you're planning
I'm not opposed to a ported box at all. In fact, that would be my preference. The issue(s) become then we're talking about a bigger box, which means more weight and more trunk space lost. Both of which are in direct conflict with my objectives. If I could build a ported box this size and throw one of these subs in there, I would.  What would you think about a smaller sub, like an 8" in a ported box this size?  Could I just buy this box and throw a port in the side of it?

 
Id go Kicker CompR in that case. That box should work fine with it. Im guessing you have an amp already cause $150 wont get you much in the way of a powered sub unless youre open to Pioneer.
No amp yet. As I said above, I've been looking at the RF amp, but haven't purchased anything. The $150 is for the sub only. 

 
Shredder will be able to come up with a design that will work with the subwoofer you choose and it won't be that big. He did a quick box above and like he said he could go smaller with it.

 
Also, it might be helpful for me to clarify my stance on space. I have two basic requirements that make this box a perfect fit from a space perspective.

1.  I need to be able to fold down one half of the back seat so I can fit my fishing poles in the car.

2.  I need room in the back to fit things like folding chairs etc for sporting events. My wife and I also do Camp Gladiator, so we need room for mats and dumb bells. 

 
Shredder will be able to come up with a design that will work with the subwoofer you choose and it won't be that big. He did a quick box above and like he said he could go smaller with it.
In all honesty, it's not just the size. I like how this box made to fit in that spot, so it really makes the most of the space it does take up.  I could probably steal a little width and get some more volume. But, I'm not sure it'd be enough to really make a difference. 

 
That box might ok if you used a 10 inch passive radiator and then drilled a hole on the side for a high throw high power handling(~500rms) 8 that could move the pr with authority.

Dayton Ultimax, SA8, SSA F8L. and use a 1k rms amp. 

 
If you want some nice bass and need room for lawn chairs and fishing poles etc... I'd actually recommend two 12s in a 1.25 sealed enclosure on both sides of the wheel well like this but FIRING diagonally in towards the cabin (major phase cancellation issues if you have two subs firing towards each other) with around 1000-1500 rms if you want any real results.  Your zenclosure wont give much output at all because its too far away from the trunk lid which causes major cancellation between incident and reflected waves along with it being undersized. If you have some time just look up a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure tutorial. All the materials even with several fk ups will still run you under 50 dollars for both sides.  Just make it as big as you possibly can do and then stuff with polyfill.

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