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Lazlo
10+ year member

Junior Member
Number of subs preferred: 1

Size preferred (if configuration allows): 10"

Budget: lower, but negotiable, more value than price

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance):  JBL GTO 601.1 580rms@2ohm

Space available (take measurements, do not guess): camaro stealth box .6cuft

Goals:  Replace stolen kicker cvr 10s

Listening habits:  Metal/hard rock

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: none, space/specs biggest concern

Been out of the game awhile, about 10 years ago I used this site alot to put together a modest system in my 98 camaro.  Focal seperates up front, coaxs in sails, kicker cvr10s in sealed box on back deck(I think .75cuft each), JBL GTO amps 75.4 and 601.1.  Recently just the subs and box were stolen, I'd like to replace them.  I've never had any complaints, but not blown away either.  I'd like to go with a stealth box this time and get the subs out of the big window, kind of surprised it took this long for someone to take them.  Problem is the very limited space in the small steath box.  I don't need to be heard down the road, I do like some punch, feeling the kicks.  So what's new in the game, old favorites that are still around?   The RE SE10 was the go to back then, but they look way different now, still good?

 
I had a '96 Camaro and I have shop build me something very similar like this WITH the amp rack build into it, icr how he did it though as it has been 20+ years since then Now do NOT buy this but it is an idea on how you can do it. And tbh it didn't cost me that much maybe 250 back then and it was built to the sub's that I was putting in it. I had 2 10" in mine so I could still have the amp rack built in and it was mounted in the storage area facing up just like the one in the link. I lost my T-Top holders but I just put them in the bags and laid them on the back seat.

http://vi.vipr.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=332768648194&t=0&tid=10&category=50564&seller=halfpricecaraudio&excSoj=1&excTrk=1&lsite=0&ittenable=false&domain=ebay.com&descgauge=1&cspheader=1&oneClk=1&secureDesc=0&oversion=c49eee01

 
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I know guys, same compromise I made when I first put this together.  Except now I have a wife and 2 kids.  Now, the past box wasn't ideal, I got 1.5cuft IF I want it shown, I don't anymore.  Like I said I had 2 tens, I always regretted going cheap on the subs, but maybe it was the box.  So a higher end sub, getting the power of both of them in a small box will definitely NOT give me what I had before?  What if it was 1 12, assuming I build another box for the deck?  I'm not loading the whole trunk, t-tops, cargo, getting to the spare, same reasons I didn't do it then.

 
Alright so went back to the drawing board and figured some things out.  A channel on my 4 channel amp is gone and the 601 just doesn't seem to be enough anymore so redoing all of it.  I was surprised how small and cheap amps have gotten and figure I could do the whole back well with t-top storage and not have to worry about an amp rack, just screw them to the box.  I'll still only get about 1cuft per sub, sealed since it's on the small side?  I am thinking a pair of SSA Demon 10s, Taramps HD 3000, and I'll need a new 4 channel.  What's the difference between the HD 3000 and MD 3000?  Worth an extra $30?  What 4 channel would you recommend, preferrably around 125-150w @ 4ohm.  I found some polk 2 channels that seem to fit the size/budget, any opinions on those?  Powering focal 165 v2.  Will class D amps be good for the fronts, I really only need 1 I guess, the other 2 channels are for the rear speakers.  https://www.ebay.com/i/232940992312?chn=ps

 
Alright so went back to the drawing board and figured some things out.  A channel on my 4 channel amp is gone and the 601 just doesn't seem to be enough anymore so redoing all of it.  I was surprised how small and cheap amps have gotten and figure I could do the whole back well with t-top storage and not have to worry about an amp rack, just screw them to the box.  I'll still only get about 1cuft per sub, sealed since it's on the small side?  I am thinking a pair of SSA Demon 10s, Taramps HD 3000, and I'll need a new 4 channel.  What's the difference between the HD 3000 and MD 3000?  Worth an extra $30?  What 4 channel would you recommend, preferrably around 125-150w @ 4ohm.  I found some polk 2 channels that seem to fit the size/budget, any opinions on those?  Powering focal 165 v2.  Will class D amps be good for the fronts, I really only need 1 I guess, the other 2 channels are for the rear speakers.  https://www.ebay.com/i/232940992312?chn=ps
MD is worth the extra 30, better deep bass response. class D works fine Dont do two amps, unnecessary wiring and space taken up.... https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8704-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B07N8HPTMC.  I'd bridge the 4 channel and leave the rear speakers on head unit power for actual sound quality and loudness results. 

I'd so a single beefy 12 ported if you only have that much space. aeroported as well. Those demons dont do that hot in sealed compared to ported purely from the TS parameters, they have an EBP of 67 which is suited for ported. For sealed performance you want subs that have an EBP of 50ish or less. you are better off getting a single SSA Icon 12 ported in the space and power you have vs trying to put subs in sealed which they were not engineered for.

image.png

 
I'm more after the "feel" of the kicks over booming bass.  Seems like you're the resident metal head here, I'll follow your recommendation.  Anything else I should look at?  I don't plan on anything near 3000w, I do have 1/0 running to the trunk and big 3 but stock alt.  But for the price and size of the amp, nothing wrong 1500w of headroom, right?  What would you tune the box to?

 
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I'm more after the "feel" of the kicks over booming bass.  Seems like you're the resident metal head here, I'll follow your recommendation.  Anything else I should look at?  I don't plan on anything near 3000w, I do have 1/0 running to the trunk and big 3 but stock alt.  But for the price and size of the amp, nothing wrong 1500w of headroom, right?  What would you tune the box to?
38hz to 40hz for metal. After impedance rise, it'll just be the right-ish amount of power to the sub. 

the bloated low end boom is from all the people making blind recommendations for low 30hz tuning without even considering the music type others listen to lol.

 
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I hear you.  The few friends I have into car audio are all about dub step and rap.  They have setups that are brutally loud but sound like ****.  Alpine type Rs in bandpass boxes.  More into subs than the rest of the system.  I got a lot of **** for spending more on my fronts than anything else.  When I put this together in the first place the subs were an afterthought, I wanted an awesome front stage. Now I got a little more to focus on the subs.

 
If you really do want SQ over everything a pair of dayton HO 12s in a sealed would work well for SQ. They work in smaller boxes and are geared for linear SQ and musicality but still gives good overall loudness. I'd say they are right in between a JL W3 and W6 in terms of performance.

 
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467

These?  Would you really build it only .5 cuft each?  That would make things alot easier, just a straight box instead of building to the contours of the trunk.
you have to account for the space the subwoofer takes up as well and the wood thickness but yes this would be the more SQ oriented approach.

i'd do .75  cubes "after sub displacement and wood thickness based on winisd graphs. You'll also need to stuff with polyfill. 

image.png

 
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Perfect, thanks for running that.  Sounds like a plan 👍.  That's exactly what my old box was......but the problem was it wasn't "hidden".🤔

 
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Lazlo

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