PA Driver Suggestions. Open to anything.

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dudeogo

Actually a Potato
Wanting to make my doors 3 way by adding 4 4" mids to each panel. (My doors are rather small or I would add larger drivers) 

I know there are a lot of offerings on parts express, but since this is an SPL build I need something that will keep up with my other mids. 

I wanted to grab the McLaren 4"s, but sadly they only come in 8 ohm. I need a 4 ohm driver so the only real option I see available to me are these DS18s

https://ds18.com/collections/pro-audio-mids/products/pro-x4-4bm-pro-series-midrange-bullet-loudspeaker

are there better options I've missed? these (and their brand) definitely don't scream high quality lmao 

 
Wanting to make my doors 3 way by adding 4 4" mids to each panel. (My doors are rather small or I would add larger drivers) 

I know there are a lot of offerings on parts express, but since this is an SPL build I need something that will keep up with my other mids. 

I wanted to grab the McLaren 4"s, but sadly they only come in 8 ohm. I need a 4 ohm driver so the only real option I see available to me are these DS18s

https://ds18.com/collections/pro-audio-mids/products/pro-x4-4bm-pro-series-midrange-bullet-loudspeaker

are there better options I've missed? these (and their brand) definitely don't scream high quality lmao 
uhm whats wrong with your current unlawful sounds mids and tweets setup?

 
uhm whats wrong with your current unlawful sounds mids and tweets setup?
nothing, just wanting to go 3 way. I feel as though there is too much stress on the 8's handling midbass and midrange at the same time would like to spread that out especially since the DSI-2 has enough outputs to support 3 way. Wanting to make the 8s midbass only and throw the midrange at the 4s 

 
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nothing, just wanting to go 3 way. I feel as though there is too much stress on the 8's handling midbass and midrange at the same time would like to spread that out especially since the DSI-2 has enough outputs to support 3 way. Wanting to make the 8s midbass only and throw the midrange at the 4s 
4s arent going to get that loud. Is that what you are hearing right now or is that what you are speculating? There shouldn't be any issue with the setup as is right now if the mids play at least up to 5khz naturally.  Anything sounding stressed would be a lack of power.

 
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4s arent going to get that loud. Is that what you are hearing right now or is that what you are speculating? There shouldn't be any issue with the setup as is right now if the mids play at least up to 5khz naturally.  Anything sounding stressed would be a lack of power.
It’s what I’m hearing. According to the manufacturer they play up to 10khz. 

Power is more than likely the issue. Still waiting on my real mids and highs amps. The clutch on the car went out so taking care of that rn.  so just have 4 8s and 4 tweets on a hifonics 1000.4 right now.  (just what I had laying around.) and I just noticed that sound quality suffered when the driver was required to play vocals and heavy midbass at the same time. I am really wanting to go 3 way though, even if it means finding room for 4 unlawful 6.5s per door as well. 

 
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It’s what I’m hearing. According to the manufacturer they play up to 10khz. 

Power is more than likely the issue. Still waiting on my real mids and highs amps. The clutch on the car went out so taking care of that rn.  so just have 4 8s and 4 tweets on a hifonics 1000.4 right now.  (just what I had laying around.) and I just noticed that sound quality suffered when the driver was required to play vocals and heavy midbass at the same time. I am really wanting to go 3 way though, even if it means finding room

for 4 unlawful 6.5s per door as well. 
stop trying to add more speakers when you dont have your power situation taken care of. that hifonics isnt anywhere close to what you need, it'll make your mids sound like sh*t when there's not enough dynamic headroom  for power.   Focus on getting real power to your mids before thinking of adding anything more.  Whats your current crossover points right now? hows the EQ curve? Do you have a perfect stage for time alignment?  Have you achieved perfect phasing between bass and subwoofer and mid and tweeter through proper time delay, phase switch control, crossover points and level matching?   

 
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IDK why soo many people have a lot of cone area for speakers yet they underpower their speakers soo much and think the solution is to add more speakers and make everything severely underpowered.

 
IDK why soo many people have a lot of cone area for speakers yet they underpower their speakers soo much and think the solution is to add more speakers and make everything severely underpowered.
I mean I’m putting a deaf bonce AAKOGO-1500.2 on the 8s and a 180.4 on the tweeters. should be enough power. Was just thinking about the 3 way route is all. 

 
If you must, these 4 inchers are 90 db sensitivity and higher, dont mind the 30 rms raiting, rating is for full range with no high pass filter used, if you bandpass these mids, the power rating should be 100+ rms.

https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-4mr60-4-4-full-range-4-ohm--294-2760

https://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-4fe32-4-neodymium-professional-full-range-woofer-4-ohm--294-1120
I don’t have to, the whole point of making the post was to get suggestions. If the general consensus is I’ll sound better 2 way rather than 3 way then I’ll stick with it. Saves me money anyway. 

 
get that done and dialed in first before doing anything speaker wise. Only upgrade if you really feel its necessary afterwards.  
And yeah i see your point there. Just didn’t want to get all the way finished with my doors only to decide that I wanted to change my setup and have to build new ones. But such is the life of the audiophile right? lol 

btw. I literally only have that hifonics on there to have music driving to work. There wasn’t even a thought in my mind to use it long term. Was about to get my 1500.2 in and then clutch decided to start slipping like crazy. Which is s $700 fix just for a slightly better than stock. 

 
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dudeogo

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