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Quiet quality

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Quartersawn

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I posted not too long ago about a frankenstien sound system for a derby car. After doing some research my tinkering nerve got going and I started looking at sound deadening and such for my new car. I have a background in music and intermediate audio equipment but no experience in car audio. Just hoping to have a discussion about my options. Once I get the info I need I will make sure to post a project thread with pics!

My goal is not loud as hell. My goal is making the car quiet and making quality balanced sound.

Sound deadening got me started. My 2018 Corolla is great but it has 3 or 4 seperate door rattles and is not a quiet ride. I have done some research and found multiple threads on this site for great sound deadening. I will be following one of those threads shortly.

Since I am taking the doors apart I might as well change out the speakers. My problem is I would really like to keep my interior looking as stock as possible. The decent and flowing interior was one of the reasons I bought the car (plus I have always driven Rollas). Do I have options when it comes to speakers while using the stock head unit? I know they tend to be lower wattage but that is about the extent of my knowledge. What needs to be done to keep the functionality and look of my stock head and upgrade my sound?

Subs. Easy question here. Are there any decent quality under the seat subs or should I ditch the idea entirely?

I know it is annoying when a low post member asks a bunch of questions but I promise I am doing homework! I appreciate yall putting up with me!

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I looked into those and they look pretty good. Does focal have a good reputation around here? I lurked on another one of your recent posts and saw you recommended the Kicker Hideaway. The set of focals and the kicker should give me a pretty good range if the spec sheets are to be believed. Now I need about 600 bucks for the setup and deadening lol

 
Quartersawn said:
I looked into those and they look pretty good. Does focal have a good reputation around here? I lurked on another one of your recent posts and saw you recommended the Kicker Hideaway. The set of focals and the kicker should give me a pretty good range if the spec sheets are to be believed. Now I need about 600 bucks for the setup and deadening lol
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D&F swear by Focal, dunno about anyone around here and im not a fan, but you cant beat ^^^ those for drop in simplicity. Dean said when he was at Kicker last, they said those under seat subs are their biggest sellers by a very long shot.

 
Unfortunately it takes space to make bass. Under seat enclosures are a waist of time imo. Even in the video D said to the kicker rep you should throw these away. They're the best selling because people don't want to give up space. 

Personally I watch a lot of their videos they know head units and do a pretty good job on their installs but when it comes to enclosures and their recommendations I take it with a grain of salt. Really depends on goals I guess but the little under seat subs pre assembled have no chance of getting low with any kind of authority.

If I needed a lot of sound deadening material I'd go with noico. Not the thickest deadening but good for those on a budget.

I'd look for speakers that have a sensitivity rating of around 90 db since you're using hu power. You could use raw drivers too. If you can make  baffles it opens up options. You'll have to figure out what will fit. Crutchfield is handy for figuring out what will easily fit without taking the door panels off but since you're taking them off you can simply measure then find some raw drivers that'll work. Passive Crossovers can be an issue but I've used  pre assembled dayton crossovers before. Ideally you'd want an active crossover but it is what it is. Using raw drivers is an economical option for sure. If you go that route I'd try to match the sensitivity of the mids to the tweeters but you could use an L pad I suppose or eq the tweeters down if they're to bright. There's other was to tone down tweeters but if you can get close sensitivity it just  makes it easier.

 
fithwheel said:
Unfortunately it takes space to make bass. Under seat enclosures are a waist of time imo. Even in the video D said to the kicker rep you should throw these away. They're the best selling because people don't want to give up space. 

Personally I watch a lot of their videos they know head units and do a pretty good job on their installs but when it comes to enclosures and their recommendations I take it with a grain of salt. Really depends on goals I guess but the little under seat subs pre assembled have no chance of getting low with any kind of authority.

If I needed a lot of sound deadening material I'd go with noico. Not the thickest deadening but good for those on a budget.

I'd look for speakers that have a sensitivity rating of around 90 db since you're using hu power. You could use raw drivers too. If you can make  baffles it opens up options. You'll have to figure out what will fit. Crutchfield is handy for figuring out what will easily fit without taking the door panels off but since you're taking them off you can simply measure then find some raw drivers that'll work. Passive Crossovers can be an issue but I've used  pre assembled dayton crossovers before. Ideally you'd want an active crossover but it is what it is. Using raw drivers is an economical option for sure. If you go that route I'd try to match the sensitivity of the mids to the tweeters but you could use an L pad I suppose or eq the tweeters down if they're to bright. There's other was to tone down tweeters but if you can get close sensitivity it just  makes it easier.
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He doesnt want authority, and if you pay attention, they (D&F) dont do boxes, they use prefabbed stuff for a reason.

 
Talontsi90 said:
He doesnt want authority, and if you pay attention, they (D&F) dont do boxes, they use prefabbed stuff for a reason.
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You're funny. Who said anything about them building boxes? You're mistaking authority with loud. If he had said I want very little bass response then sure get the under seat kicker. I thought he said balanced? I stand by my statement "under seat sub waste of time"

 
Is there an option where I keep the functionality of my stock head unit AND add an amp? A sort of post stage amp? At that point it would probably be a bit more than I can handle on my own but if it is a possibility then I am willing to pay someone at least part of the way. That woukd really open up my possibilities for sound customization.

 
you could get one of these JL processors.. http://intl.jlaudio.com/car-audio-processors

id do that and a good set of component speakers up front, 1 10" or 12" sub in the trunk and an amp or 2.  i have 1 12" sub in my trunk, still have plenty of room for a couple/few suitcases and shakes entire car with ease 

cars an Accord sedan.  ill put up a couple pics tomorrow.  its a simple, yet very nice sounding setup

 
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Quartersawn said:
Is there an option where I keep the functionality of my stock head unit AND add an amp? A sort of post stage amp? At that point it would probably be a bit more than I can handle on my own but if it is a possibility then I am willing to pay someone at least part of the way. That woukd really open up my possibilities for sound customization.
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Depends on your budget. Unlimited budget = alpine pxa h800 Digital sound processor with some zapco amps.     Or you can do a dayton dsp for dirt cheap and two pioneer gm series 4 channel amps.  

As for quiet, you'll have to expect that you'll give up 2-5 mpg after all this is done.  You'll want to get some CLD which is stick on deadener to dampen vibrations, corollas are hollow and flimsy, get something strong like knukonceptz kolossus or stinger roadkill if you are on a budget. You'll then want to buy a roll of Mass loaded vinyl, second skin luxury liner works with this. You want to all doors, roof and floor with Deadener and MLV.  Also the corolla has a lot of hard panels vibrating against eachother so you'll want to get some closed cell foam as well to decouple (put in between two hard surfaces to prevent them ratting against eachother) and then you'll be done. Expect 100ish lbs total added to your car including the audio gear.  Google search keep hope alive 2014 accord build and you'll see how an acoustics engineer deadens his car.

 
my setup.  sub amp is mounted on right side of sub box.  the Oz Audio 6.5" mid is in the stock location below the tweet.  it wont win any awards but im content with it

IMG_1837.JPG

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IMG_1822.JPG

 
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Jeffdachef said:
Depends on your budget. Unlimited budget = alpine pxa h800 Digital sound processor with some zapco amps.     Or you can do a dayton dsp for dirt cheap and two pioneer gm series 4 channel amps.  

As for quiet, you'll have to expect that you'll give up 2-5 mpg after all this is done.  You'll want to get some CLD which is stick on deadener to dampen vibrations, corollas are hollow and flimsy, get something strong like knukonceptz kolossus or stinger roadkill if you are on a budget. You'll then want to buy a roll of Mass loaded vinyl, second skin luxury liner works with this. You want to all doors, roof and floor with Deadener and MLV.  Also the corolla has a lot of hard panels vibrating against eachother so you'll want to get some closed cell foam as well to decouple (put in between two hard surfaces to prevent them ratting against eachother) and then you'll be done. Expect 100ish lbs total added to your car including the audio gear.  Google search keep hope alive 2014 accord build and you'll see how an acoustics engineer deadens his car.
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The keep_hope_alive thread is what made me itching to do the sound deadening. I am a tinkerer so I think it will be a lot of fun. I cannot stand all the road noise in my corolla and since I will have it for a while 300-400 to get rid of that annoying whir at highway speeds is easy to justify. (I put 115k miles on my last car in 4 years)

nauc said:
my setup.  sub amp is mounted on right side of sub box.  the Oz Audio 6.5" mid is in the stock location below the tweet.  it wont win any awards but im content with it

View attachment 4860

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You do have quite a bit of room in the trunk still, however I am exploring all my possibilities in order to keep the sub out of the trunk if at all possible. I know I know. Another guy that wants room and bass. But I haul a lot of stuff for work and will most likely have to take the subs out every other week if I put them in the trunk.

This is what I am toying with right now.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-QE26dCE6M9o/p_500PSU3CRA/Alpine-PSU-300CRA.html?XVINQ=GLX&awkw=559299351574&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=309969121349&awdv=m&awug=9011821&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4qvlBRDiARIsAHme6otmb0BcA8WA2Mij55mNMYW5J5p0mYIKQp-BqZB0UI8Z8vH7_gc0XQgaAoCIEALw_wcB

It is made for my corolla of all cars. Local install shop recommend it. He was surpised by its existance.

Me being the skeptic I am, I did more research. The sub is 299 crutchfield and the included 4 channel amp is 130 or so. That means I am paying 320 for the mounting bracket and some trimmed up wires? As cool as that bracket is, I am pretty handy. I could probably make one out of MDF and carpet.

The install guy recommended this setup because I could upgrade the speakers at a later time if I chose to do so. Wouldn't having a 45w/channel amp be relatively dangerous on some stock baby magnet toyota speaker?

He also said that adding a JL processor (wrong word?) To make the setup compatible with my stock head would be around 100 bucks. Sounds reasonable. 

Is anyone following my rambling? I hardly know what I am talking about. All this effort to add a few Hz to my sound lol

To anyone who read all that, gold star.

 
for real though, these tang band 6x9 infinite baffle on the rear deck will have more bass than that sh*tty under the seat box.  https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w69-1042j-6x9-subwoofer--264-837

Just focus on the front stage and these IB subs will handle most of the low end.

As for the speakers, as long as you have a high pass filter, those stock speakers can handle a lot of power. I threw 145 rms to my stock toyota speakers with the tiny neodymium magnets and they never stank ever.

 
If space is an issue but you want big accurate bass, I'd recommend building an Infinite Baffle setup. Amps behind your rear seats, the whole trunk is your enclosure(deaden it) You have literally the whole trunk left to do whatever you wish. The JL cleansweep only flattens the signal, You need something that does both flattening the signal AND adjusting the sound or else you'll be stuck with mediocre results with no sound stage or time alignment,

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Quartersawn

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