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Shh Very Quiet... How do I get a quiet car

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jjohnston
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I have always been into car audio, had a car that went to competition, won some awards, etc.  But didn't get far into sound deadening and making a car quiet.  my deadening was mostly done for panel rattles.

Today I have kids, and my car is a family hauler traverse.  I need to keep the factory system.  I'm going to do a DSP/Amp and some infinity speakers up front, all hidden within factory openings.  I know its not Ideal for SQ, but its the position I am in.

One thing I would really like to do is make the car inside as quiet as possible, without gutting the whole interior.  This is where I need help and guidance.  Right now the interior of my car reads about 65db A weighted. (not sure if A is the proper weighting to use for this or not).  Since I'm doing front door speakers, I want to put stinger RoadKill Ultimate.  Its the one with the deadener, and the foam absorption all in one.  Then hopefully a spray on undercoating/deadening in the outside wheel wells and underbody.  I will need to do everything in stages due to money, but am curious of anyone has taken the time test, or knows based on experience an educated guess as to the DB drop for each stage below?  OR if anyone has any other recommendations to what my thoughts are.

  1. RoadKill Ultimate on front doors (door skins only)
  2. Underbody/wheel well spray on deadener outside of car
  3. RoadKill Ultimate on Back Doors (door skins only)
  4. RoadKill Ultimate on hatch door (door skin only)
  5. Roadkill Ultimate on Roof
I think first I want to know will I notice a difference if I do just the front doors at all....  But would be cool if anyone has experience to tell me #1 has an aproximate 1db drop, 2 an additional 1 db drop, etc...

Click to read more...
 
deadener only reduces noise if you already have vibrating hollow panels. If the car is already pretty solid, you wont notice much difference.  You'll still want to do it on the door, roof and especially floor. When you are doing so, you'll also want to add a layer of 1/4" mass loaded vinyl on top of that (especially the floor) and your car will be quiet as a BMW.

 
jjohnston said:
I'm looking at this...

https://stingerelectronics.com/newsroom/blog/new-product-roadkill-ultimate
Click to expand...
looks like a complete waste of money, just a layer of closed cell foam on top of the aluminium backing which does absolutely nothing soundwise, you need MASS LOADED VINYL for any real acoustical barrier results which is heavy in mass and actually blocks sound, deadener and mass loaded vinyl will absolutely sh*t all over this overpriced foam gimmick purely due to physics standpoint and actual SQ builds that win nationals that require an absolutely quiet environment. As for the deadener side, What you want is a stronger butyl/aluminium backing which looks like they didn't change at all its still 80 mils which is the same as their expert roadkill, literally took their expert roadkill and slapped some cheap foam on top and marketed as something different they are trying to copy GP car audio's stfu deadener https://gpcaraudio.com/gp-stfu-v2-250mil-40-sqft-10-sheets/  all the foam does is decouple panels from rubbing against solid metal parts, you can just buy some closed cell foam from walmart and achieve the exact same results.

. Knukonceptz kolossus is much thicker and proven deadener on the thread on DIYMA forums that rannked 1st in a bench deadener dyno test of 50+ kinds of deadener on the market right now. 

You also have ampere vibraflex which is straight thick as fk deadener this is one sheet

image.jpeg

 
Ok, so I'm better off with the normal roadkill, and use the savings for a roll of MLV.  does it make sense or help to put MLV in the door?  do they make self adhesive mlv, or is that more cut to fit, and glue in?

My thought with the ultra roadkill was that the fabric side would absorb any sound that makes it through the deadener.  deadener to stop the vibration, fabric to "absorb" the sound, but maybe its a gimick?

 
jjohnston said:
Ok, so I'm better off with the normal roadkill, and use the savings for a roll of MLV.  does it make sense or help to put MLV in the door?  do they make self adhesive mlv, or is that more cut to fit, and glue in?

My thought with the ultra roadkill was that the fabric side would absorb any sound that makes it through the deadener.  deadener to stop the vibration, fabric to "absorb" the sound, but maybe its a gimick?
Click to expand...
Its not fabric, its foam. That kind of foam only absorbs some upper frequencies like higher pitched wind noise. You'll still get a lot of road noise. While MLV absorbs and blocks the whole sound spectrum.  You can use 3m 90 spray adhesive plus screws or specialized tape.  please read this thread to see how an acoustics engineer makes his car absolutely quiet and ideal for sound quality.



pl

 
Traverse, as in Chevy Traverse? If so, RIP. You might drop a couple dB, but let's be real, a family hauler (van) is absolutely not going to be whisper quiet due to the massive amounts of glass, which is an incredibly poor sound insulator. Filling gaps between the fender and door will help block some airflow and thus noise. CLD won't do you too much good, but a layer on the roof skin will reduce rain noise drastically. MLV on the doors and floors will kill some of the drone. Aside from that, not much to do.

 
Jeffdachef said:
Its not fabric, its foam. That kind of foam only absorbs some upper frequencies like higher pitched wind noise. You'll still get a lot of road noise. While MLV absorbs and blocks the whole sound spectrum.  You can use 3m 90 spray adhesive plus screws or specialized tape.  please read this thread to see how an acoustics engineer makes his car absolutely quiet and ideal for sound quality.



pl
Click to expand...
Didnt i already point him there? Or did he simply ignore it?

 
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