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By Isaac Lind
I keep thinking this and can’t figure this out in my head and it’s driving me crazy. So let’s say I have a 2 channel amp and two 2 ohm subwoofers. My amp is stable bridged at 4 ohm so I wire them in series. Now both subs pound at the same time. Now let’s say I just hook up each sub to each channel and let the subs run in stereo?! What would happen? Will they pound the same or pound in stereo and be kinda off?! My real thoughts on this are really because I have a really good zapco amp that is 1 ohm stereo stable that I could potentially hook up a lot more subwoofers too but only in stereo not bridged. But I just want to know will the subs pound the same in stereo mode as apposed to bridge mode or even mono amp style? Also if I did hook them up on each channel, is there A way to just make them run in mono mode instead of stereo? Thanks guys. Also I’ve had an account here but I’ve forgotten it and used my facebook for a new one lol.
By Tom Keyte
Hi, thanks in advance for any help. I've added a leisure battery to my van, using the wiring in this video: https://youtu.be/oOQHe_cZtI4?t=1044
I have this amp: https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-pioneer-gm-d8704_p-41014.htm and this head unit: https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/deh-s3000bt
I'm assuming the head unit will be fine if I wire it in to the fuse block (this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IVRC9RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
Should I re-wire the permanent or ignition switched terminal from the back of the head unit to the fuse block.
And my main question...
For the amp, Should I be connecting that via 16mm cable straight to the battery (or to the isolator switch in this case) and does it need its own fuse.
By Dylan Woods
to whoever reads this, I am extremely naive on car audio. I have a 2014 Dodge Avenger with a 600W Kicker Amp with 2 12” Kicker Subs. They recently stopped working going in and out only staying on for maybe 3 seconds. I took it to a garage and they said my amp wasn’t strong enough everything kept going into safety mode. I want to upgrade but I don’t want to get ripped off due to me being naive. I want to get 2 15” inch subs, a compatible amplifier, and new tweeters. I’m not afraid to put down a decent amount of money I just don’t want to go over $2,000 for what I listed plus instillation. I got a rate for 2k for all of that stuff it would be tezla brand. I live in myrtle beach and during bike week I always hear cars with the deepest bass and loudest treble. I want to go deaf and I want to shake houses from a block away. I need suggestions on the best equipment to get
By Nick Miles
Hey guys I'm fairly new to car audio but I need to find the source of my system having really high pitchy ness when the high notes are hit on just about any song at decently high volume. I talked with a friend of mine he said first adjust the EQ to lower the right part of the line graph down which is whta I believe the treble. I did this by lowering them from high 9/9 all the way down to zero at the very rightmost part of it. Then he told me to lower the gain. So I have a few questions with this.
Which gain is he talking about? Because I've narrated through and I found the DTE gain and I also found the gain for front left front right rear right and rear left as well as the sub in the crossover and also the tweeter. I don't wanna mess with this too much until I know what I'm doing for sure because I don't wanna blow my speakers out since they are already clipping pretty bad. I had adjusted all the gains to -3db from zero I hope I didn't do something wrong.
I'm using a Kenwood KDC-X303 cd receiver. Let me know thanks again for reading.