Speaker replacement Gen6 Camaro

if you plan on keeping the head unit and powering stuff off the head unit or LOC, give up on the idea, it'll sound like sh*t because the stock factory head unit is complete sh*t and its tuned for the stock speakers with a built in EQ curve and crossover like you said.  You'll want to add a, digital sound processor "DSP" with signal summing and factory De-equalization and 4 channel amp and rerun wire to all doors to bypass factory crossovers for any real results otherwise you'll be spending a lot of money for completely garbage results..  Leave rear speakers on stock amp and power and leave them stock, they are useless. A DSP with cheaper(but still quality) drivers fully amped will sound better than a 2000 dollar speaker set on a factory head unit and amp. 

If you can get the hybrid audio, it will sound really good SQ wise, it'll be mediocre spl wise but utter destruction for your wallet haha. They definitely will sound good if you have an amp and dsp.

other 2-3 inch wide bander options if the hybrid is to expensive. pick the ones with the highest sensitivity rating above 88 db if possible. 

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/woofers/15?N=19809+4294967118+4294964608&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&PortalID=1

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-2-fullrange/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/

a pioneer gm8704 should be plenty of power for you. around 140 ish dollars. 

DSP if you can find something used, it would be good.  Otherwise a dayton dsp at 150$+30 for bluetooth dongle would be fine if you had an RTA to flatten the signal and build your eq curve from there.

as for 6x9s your options for quality drivers are limited. Also if you dont have a sub, you'll notice that the amount of bass from aftermarket speakers is very low compared to stock even when amped. It'll have midbass but not actual sub bass, when you upgrade the system you really will need to add a subwoofer or else your low end will be literally gone. 

if you do get a subwoofer these 6x9s will be perfect 

https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-69mr500php-4-6-x-9-midrange-loudspeaker-4-ohm--294-2761

if you dont plan on getting a sub, you can get some alpine type R coaxials and cross them over with a low pass filter. they generally have pretty decent bass with no high pass filter on them.

Those 20 rms ratings are actually when you have the setup at full range with barely any or extremely low high pass. With an actual crossover around 2500-4000khz + the rms actually shoots up to the 100 rms range. something like the faital pros at 91 db would be massively louder than the HATs and still sound decent however if you say its not going to fit then you'll have to get the HAT tweets. The HATs would sound very sound quality and resolving with the hood up, not guaranteed to fully satisfy your spl needs with the hood down at high speeds though.

I actually have the prvs, they play down to 63hz just fine, the 500hz range is mainly how they use the driver in a 3 way setup with dedicated midbass in those Brazilian setups. There's not much good 6x9 options out there so you'll just have to settle with less output. There's also the audiofrog gb 6x9 as well with 92 db sensitivity but thats all.

If you have a fix, you can just get a dayton audio dsp for 150 and it gives you literally everything you need and can be controlled via bluetooth app. 

Ive never had a problem with stage using a 3500 x-over point from mids to highs. A slight bump at 1000hz on the eq will do wonders for raising it if needed.

Skip the Flutes, take a look at Stevens Audio 6.5’s, Or even their MB 8’s, if you can shoehorn them in. I couldn’t fit an 8 in my 5th gen w/o modifying my door card. If you are keeping the car for 8+ years, and it’s a vert, you should seriously think about buying an extra set of a pillars, and put your mids and tweets in them. Then you could run the Faital Pros, which were a great recommendation.

boomgoesthedynamite said:

I'm not really up for trying to fabricate a-piller mounts.  I'm pretty picky about aesthetics and know that I won't be able to make anything that won't irritate me to look at.

Audio is important but second to aesthetics for me.  I like to be able to fully revert to stock without a trace.  As such, I'm working to balance cost vs. quality vs. what will fit in factory locations.  That leaves me with 6x9 or 6.5" in doors and 2-2.5" full range in dash.  Now I'm just looking for a quality option for those two pieces.

Click to expand...

PM me as I have some options to show you today.