Need help from active crossover gurus

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C-LocJiggleNuts

CarAudio.com Recruit
Need some wiring help: I am rewiring my current setup and switching from passive to active and need some reassurance on the wiring. I am planning on a 2 way front stage with rear fill and 2 10" subs off a DSP.

Wiring plan is as follows:

Speakers:

9 wire from dash to 6 channel Arc audio X2-1200-6. Front midrange will be wired as they were before into the amp (minus the passive crossover). The tweeters I am planning on wiring them into what was the rear speaker wiring behind the dash. The rear speakers will now be powered up from the head unit itself.

RCA's

From the head unit:

Front = Tweeters. Will be input ch 1/2 (stereo) on the dsp.

Rear = Mids. Will be input ch 5/6 (stereo) on the dsp

Sub = Sub into the mono ch 3/4 input of DSP

Does that sound right? I want to be sure before I power everything up since I have already completed this wiring. Or if there is better way of doing this please let me know. Thank you.

 
make sure if you plan on using stock factory wire that their gauge of wire is big enough and that there is no in line crossover capacitor built in anywhere. Best to run new 16-14 gauge cable if possible. I usually use channel 1 and two for tweeters, 3 and 4 for midrange, 5 and 6 for midbass and 7 and 8 for subwoofer output but you can put it however you want it doesnt really matter. Bridge 4 of the channels for the midbass and use the other two for tweeter.   

 
Wouldn’t bridging 4 channels into 2 make it a 2ohm setup and damage the speakers that are 4 ohm speakers? I’m not too familiar with bridging other than + to opposite -. Perhaps you can break it down into dumbass terms for me. This amp is confusing to me with all of the different configurations. The manual doesn’t really specify how to wire it 2 way active with a dsp. And on a side note I need all crossovers on the amp set to full and the gains all the way turned down and adjust from the dsp right? 

 
Wouldn’t bridging 4 channels into 2 make it a 2ohm setup and damage the speakers that are 4 ohm speakers? I’m not too familiar with bridging other than + to opposite -. Perhaps you can break it down into dumbass terms for me. This amp is confusing to me with all of the different configurations. The manual doesn’t really specify how to wire it 2 way active with a dsp. And on a side note I need all crossovers on the amp set to full and the gains all the way turned down and adjust from the dsp right? 
you can leave the crossover off on the mid for the amp or if it goes down really low like 40 or 30hz, you can leave it on at the minimum crossover levels for extra protection from excursion on the low notes you can raise it a bit higher if your drivers pump out a **** ton of midbass even at 100hz at -24 db slope raising it up will technically count as a -36 db total slope at the point you leave it at. Its rare but some drivers run into mechanical issues from too much midbass/sub bass. leave it on around 1000hz  high pass for the tweeters for a 2ndary protection barrier just in case you accidentally turn off the crossover on the amp by accident or the software bugs out.   I generally have the amp gains around 30% or 40% and keep the levels down on the dsp and raise it up slowly from the dsp till you hear distortion aka speakers sounding like absolute **** as in peaky as fk, so you dont have to keep going back and forth to adjust the gain. 

looked up your amp, bridging should be simple channel 1 and 2  bridged for left  mid 3 and 4 is bridged for right mid and 5 and 6 will be tweeters set on stereo mode.

bridging will just get more power to your mids, it'll be 4 ohms bridged which will give you a lot of power to your mids which your mids definitely will love (just use a higher high pass crossover or steeper slope or a combination of the two if the midbass is pumping hard before you get the output you desire, thats how you keep from damaging it mechanically. Thermally it should take the power no problem when crossed over properly. In every one of my experience and everyone i helped, a sh*t ton of power to the mids always made the mids sound way more detailed, brings midbass alive from high levels to low volume levels. At higher volume levels, the mids dont distort as fast or get sloppy. Longevity is actually better since you dont have to ever come close to clipping the amp by having soo much headroom that you are ensured squeaky clean undistorted power to your mids. Its the secret to having amazing SQ and clean loud output.   You got a world class SQ competitor/record breaker scott bulwada putting a 750 rms amp to each midrange, midbass and tweeter in his car just to show how important headroom is.

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Ok. Thanks again man. Really appreciate the time you take to edit photos and explain everything. If you ever feel like you need a trip to Washington to do a tune, ill cover your flight.  :naughty:

 
if you select 2 channel mode you only need  a single rca for channels 1, 2 , 3, 4. and the other for channel 5 and 6
So I’m a visual guy. How bout a drawing?  Head unit side and amp side. For bridging do I use front r to left rear or vice Versa? I’m sure I’m seriously overthinking this. 

 
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C-LocJiggleNuts

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