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Jtyson

Box builders or someone who sells designs?

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I need a box for my 2015 Ram Crew Cab for a single 8" Skar ZVX8. Needs a giant box, but space in this truck is stupid. I have been speaking to someone from a company called Sound Off Audio who said he could build it, but then told me I'd have to bring it to him in Panama City, FL. I'm in New Mexico, so I can't justify a 3k mile road trip for a sub box. We have a couple mediocre audio shops here and I've had two of them build mediocre boxes for $500 each in the past so I don't care to go that route again. 

I have a table saw, clamps, glue, etc as I have a hobby wood shop. I could build it myself if someone told me what dimensions I needed to make it as I don't fully understand how to build ports and such. I'm up to paying a pro for that plan and building my own, or if you guys know anyone in this area that can help me out, I'd appreciate it. 

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Where do you plan on putting this sub at? Behind the rear seat? Under the rear seat? @shredder2 can prob cook you up a design for ya. Just need some more info that will more than likely get asked.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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On 3/20/2019 at 6:42 AM, denim said:

why is there "tuning frequency" for sealed?  just supposed to click "na" ?


Alpine 9887, Oz ME 180CS, RF R500X1D, 12" RE SE Sealed, Second Skin Damp Pro

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It will have to be under the back seat(s). These truck have stupid molded cargo areas so a rectangular box can't be used. So it would need to be something like this picture, except for a single 8" Skar ZVX8. 

sub box.jpg

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In posting that picture, I got the idea that I could probably buy a fox box and just modify it to fit my purpose. Anyone have any experience with their quality?

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I've seen this Foxbox in person and the supposed cu ft for them isn't true. I went to a buddy's house and he was doing exactly what you're wanting to do. I'm curious as to how your gonna modify an already prefab enclosure?


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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The wood portion I could build entirely on my own if I had their molded bottom part and knew what dimensions to do the wood. I have all the tools and skills needed to do the labor, just no idea how to do the design. Modding a prefab box wouldn't be ideal, but may be doable. 

On their site, their single vented box is stated at 1.85ft^3. So even if that were slightly overstated, it is more than the suggested 1.25ft^3 Skar calls for this sub. And if I wanted to use two of them since I have them, the dual vented box is stated as 1.55ft^3 on each side. So that might actually be close to what I would need. 

My question would be how important is the port area and port length that is mentioned by Skar for an enclosure? Fox doesn't list those on their site, so no idea how that would work. 

Was your buddy running the same sub?

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2 hours ago, Jtyson said:

The wood portion I could build entirely on my own if I had their molded bottom part and knew what dimensions to do the wood. I have all the tools and skills needed to do the labor, just no idea how to do the design. Modding a prefab box wouldn't be ideal, but may be doable. 

On their site, their single vented box is stated at 1.85ft^3. So even if that were slightly overstated, it is more than the suggested 1.25ft^3 Skar calls for this sub. And if I wanted to use two of them since I have them, the dual vented box is stated as 1.55ft^3 on each side. So that might actually be close to what I would need. 

My question would be how important is the port area and port length that is mentioned by Skar for an enclosure? Fox doesn't list those on their site, so no idea how that would work. 

Was your buddy running the same sub?

Port area and port length is just as important as the internal volume itself, if you want the sub or subs to sound good.

 

He was doing an install for someone he knows which utilized some JL shallow mounts. Which sounded ok to both of them but then he threw in some Audiofrog subs he had in his garage and sounded much better in the box.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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I sent an email to fox last night, so hopefully they get back with me with info on the port dimensions. If their prefab box will be adequate, then I'd be perfectly happy just buying something and putting it all in rather than having to build something. 

I'm sure it isn't something someone could pin down exactly, but how exactly does the port length change the quality/power? I can understand area, but there are plenty of ways to get a port that is 14.45"sq so does shape really matter so long as the port length is correct? Correct me if I'm wrong but a port would need to be something about 3"x5"x19" to hit the specs for that sub of 14.45"^2 and 19" length. 19" port length seems like it would be difficult to get anywhere in that box.

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12 hours ago, Jtyson said:

The wood portion I could build entirely on my own if I had their molded bottom part and knew what dimensions to do the wood. I have all the tools and skills needed to do the labor, just no idea how to do the design. Modding a prefab box wouldn't be ideal, but may be doable. 

On their site, their single vented box is stated at 1.85ft^3. So even if that were slightly overstated, it is more than the suggested 1.25ft^3 Skar calls for this sub. And if I wanted to use two of them since I have them, the dual vented box is stated as 1.55ft^3 on each side. So that might actually be close to what I would need. 

My question would be how important is the port area and port length that is mentioned by Skar for an enclosure? Fox doesn't list those on their site, so no idea how that would work. 

Was your buddy running the same sub?

if you have the skills to build it, get some cardboard, cut all the bottom portions, build the whole enclosure sealed with subwoofer cutouts completely and maximize every last bit of airspace possible.  Then get some packing peanuts, fill the enclosure completely full, then dump all the peanuts into a carboard box, measure length x width x height (to how much the peanuts fill up, that should give you a rough approximation of the airspace you have. Then we can figure out port values and numbers on here if you get us that information and we can recommend a proper dimension port for you.

Its easy to subtract airspace but its way harder to add. Instead of wasting money on a sh*tty prefab box, just build your own but make sure the box is as big as possible and squeeze as much airspace as you can possible do and a bit more.

Edited by Jeffdachef

09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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Alright I was able to pick up some mattress boxes this weekend. I'll tear things apart in the next day or two, build a mock up as best as I can, and see what to do. Still haven't heard anything back from Fox

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Fiberglass bottom can be an option. Lay foil, build frame, lay mat, few coats of fiberglass, secure and seal the top. 


Kenwood KDC-X597 head unit, Alpine R-S65C.2 comps, RF P300.2 amp, Pioneer TS-W3003D4 sub i(1.5cf @ 40hz), JBL GTR-1001 amp, Knukonceptz fuse blocks/wiring, Stinger 4k series rca's. 

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14 hours ago, Jtyson said:

Alright I was able to pick up some mattress boxes this weekend. I'll tear things apart in the next day or two, build a mock up as best as I can, and see what to do. Still haven't heard anything back from Fox

I've got the same truck, well, it's a '14 but the stupid molded cubby holes in the back are the same. When you go to spec out the space with cardboard, pull out the carpet under the seat and in that cargo area. The carpet has padding underneath and you will gain some space by removing it. 

I've honestly toyed with the idea of cutting out the metal that forms the little cargo area. It's pretty thin sheet metal that is tack welded in. If you're handy with a welder, it wouldn't be too hard to re-install it if you were to sell/trade-in your truck. With that metal gone, you could do a forward firing setup and gain all kinds of space. That's a little bit extreme but just food for thought. 

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7 hours ago, JLJunkieMX107 said:

I've got the same truck, well, it's a '14 but the stupid molded cubby holes in the back are the same. When you go to spec out the space with cardboard, pull out the carpet under the seat and in that cargo area. The carpet has padding underneath and you will gain some space by removing it. 

I've honestly toyed with the idea of cutting out the metal that forms the little cargo area. It's pretty thin sheet metal that is tack welded in. If you're handy with a welder, it wouldn't be too hard to re-install it if you were to sell/trade-in your truck. With that metal gone, you could do a forward firing setup and gain all kinds of space. That's a little bit extreme but just food for thought. 

I have considered the idea of removing the stupid molded tin extensively. But being that I intend to get rid of the truck in about a year, I don't think it is a good idea to go to all that trouble. I do have the welders and skill to do it, but I think that is a bit more work than I should take on. 

I didn't pull carpet or lift the seats to make the mock up box, so I guess I'll add a small factor in if my mock up happens to be close to adequate. 

Frankly, even just building the mock up for this thing today was stupid. From start to finish, I spent almost 4 hours, and I still haven't calculated the air space because I can't find any filler to check it with. I can say, that without a doubt, I'd rather buy a box than build one for such a ridiculous space. But, since I wasted the whole afternoon on this dumb mock up box, I'll see what I can find to work as a filler to check volume.

Anyway, the box is small. Just by looking at it, I'm thinking there is no way I get close to 3ft^3. As it is, the box touches the bottom of the seats. I think I can lift the seats up to 1.5", but still need to factor in mounting and excursion of the subs themselves. 

 

 

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Well - as I expected, not even close. I bought some bean bag filler styrofoam (what a mess) and filled the box this afternoon. Then dumped everything out that didn't static cling to the inside into a box 2'x2'x'2'. And it filled it a whopping 5". So basically 1.7ft^3. Now granted, I didn't pull carpet, nor lift the seats, and I probably could have done a little more work to stuff another inch or two under the seats, but I just don't know about getting the 3ft^3 that I would need without a TON of work. 

So....just how bad do you think one of those fox boxes would sound? Either a single or a double? I mean if they've already done the leg work to get the airspace maximized for the space, why shouldn't I save myself the headache and buy one? Sure the port may not be perfect for what I've got, but how bad is that really?

Edited by Jtyson

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Should've bought an older vehicle lol

 

Jokingly aside, those big plastic tubs are for the sub displacement area, magnet/basket space. I don't think it counts as the cu ft for the actual enclosure itself. When my friend did the same thing, he took the measurements of the enclosure, and also used some packing peanuts to determine the actual internal volume after crunching some numbers.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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Initially I didn't want this truck. I wanted a mega cab so I could build something behind the rear seats. But it didn't work out that way. So now I'm trying to make the best of it. 

I'm thinking seriously about just buying one of the fox boxes and modifying it to fit the 8" sub or subs. They claim 1.55ft^3 each side on the dual or 1.8ft^3 on the single. Port area and what not may be perfect, but hell, I don't have to build it, and it is bound to be a load better than the 150 watt alpine factory sub. I mean realistically I'm not looking to compete, just trying jam while I'm on the road 6 hours at a time. 

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Called and spoke with a guy at Fox today. Relatively friendly. He was on the road and told me to call back tomorrow if I wanted exact numbers but he believes the port area is 14in^2 and length 28". So that happens to be just barely short on area as the spec calls for 14.45, but the length is 9" too long. So I did some searching and seems that a shorter port will react better? But a longer port isn't necessarily a terrible thing. Any thoughts on that? 

Edited by Jtyson

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Well I took a leap, and ordered one from Fox. Now just need to get all the other parts and hope for the best. I'll report back - good or bad. 

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