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Okay here is the scenario. I am starting a build next month. I’m doing this one for a family member and they have a conversion van because my family member recently became handicapped. They love a decent sound system seems to be a genetic thing haha, anyway all this started with a need for 120 Volt AC outlets. So basically what will be in the Van without getting technical --- Amp, Distribution block, Capacitor, and a Power Inverter for the 120V outlets.
The Question… When adding a capacitor should I add the Capacitor before the distribution block so that it feeds the Amp and the Power Inverter or just use the Cap for the Amp. I see some debate on this and as to where the cap should be and what other items should be in the circuit with the Cap.
So with that question could you please provide a detailed answer as to your thoughts on this… Im sure many of you have a lot more experience and I mean real world experience with this sort of stuff, not just some guy reading the book but have encountered this issue and have installed things before.
I am in the process of replace the factory head unit (sony no nav) with another head unit (power acoustik with nav) and when I went to create a wiring harness, I noticed there were no negative speaker connections coming from original head unit.. So my question is, should I ground the ones coming out of the new head unit to each other or just leave them unconnected?
Hey all, I recently had a very well respected car audio place in town here install the Pioneer 4400nex in my 2003 trailblazer ltz with the bose sound system.
Now, they say they're going to take care of fixing it, but I would like to try and figure out what's going on incase they try to sell me something I do not need.
So, when I am sitting, engine off, key turned on, the stereo works great, sound comes through, head unit on. If I start driving, it will play for a few seconds to a few minutes, and the head unit stays on, the song continues playing, but I can hear nothing. It happens on radio, aux, carplay... All sound sources. Now, when I stop, turn off the engine, but the ignition stays on, the sound kicks back on immediately. There is a squealing noise while the stereo turns on, not a huge deal, kind of annoying but not a deal breaker. Any clues?
The shop said it could be a few things, but obviously wouldn't guarantee which was the source of the problem, as they haven't looked at it in detail yet. They said it could be the GM class II data bus, head unit, or "more likely your amplifier." I think they might just be trying to sell me an amp, and know what the problem is.
I would appreciate any and all input as to what could be causing this, so I can hopefully tell if they're scamming me or if they actually found a problem with my amp.
I recently just installed an Alpine type S 12" sub in my 2013 Ford Police Interceptor.
While I'm driving, the sub randomly spikes up in volume, and then does back down again. There's no coherent pattern that would link it to acceleration or braking.
Ive got a Clarion XH5210 2 channel Amp with a max output of 340W. The amp's remote wire is spliced off of my accessory 1 wire from my ignition switch, as I have a stock head unit. I also have an LC2i, which receives input from my rear speakers, and then through RCA, connects to my amp. Both are off the same power cable ran from the battery, and off the same ground which I have screwed into the metal frame in my trunk. All my wiring is 14 gauge speaker wire (except power and ground of course).
If anyone has ran into similar issues, help would be much appreciated!