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6.5 door + 4" dashbord speakers recommendation

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alex6999
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Hi, looking for recommendation

Dash unit Kenwood KMM-BT522HD

Amplifier: Power Acoustik OV2-820,  RMS Power @ 4 ohms 180 watts x 2 channels. I think it per channel, and i kill expensive DLS speakers with 200W RSM with this apmlifier. I dont know that is RMS per 2 speakers, It play loud, but after they burn i found that crossover plastic was melted. It was  2007 DLS UP6 2-Way 6.5' Component System $238, found paypal invoice.

I bought NEW CADENCE 6.5" 300 WATT SLIM CAR COMPONENT SPEAKERS $69.95 USD and burn it

I bought Audiobahn and burn it.

I was very unhappy, i removed amplifier

It was in 2007-2008, now, after 10+ year i wish to continue burning speakers experiments :)

Loudness is priority. I will burn it again if it will be not load enough. Please recommend me budget setup. Bugdet!!! Burned cheap and expensive speakers smell the same

Doors with 6.5 speakers

Dashboard with 4" speakers and 1" tweeters. not sure about exact size
Option 1: disconnect dash speakers and install 2 way components speakers into door. Budget $100

Option 1.1: I have 2 set of crossovers and tweeters from DLS and Cadence, they alive

Option 2: Install 3 way, 6.5 into door, and 2 speakers in dashboard. Budget $150

I dont know what speakers will fit my dashboard

Thank you.

PS: I found $130 Massive Audio ZK6 (400W RMS) 6.5" ZK Series 2-Way Component Car Speakers

Power Handling:
    Peak: 800W per set / 400W each side
    RMS: 400W per set / 200W each side
Sensitivity: 93dB

Hard to believe

20190129_224626.jpg

20190129_224637.jpg

20374399_3_.jpg

Click to read more...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
alex6999 said:
Hi, looking for recommendation

Dash unit Kenwood KMM-BT522HD

Amplifier: Power Acoustik OV2-820,  RMS Power @ 4 ohms 180 watts x 2 channels. I think it per channel, and i kill expensive DLS speakers with 200W RSM with this apmlifier. I dont know that is RMS per 2 speakers, It play loud, but after they burn i found that crossover plastic was melted. It was  2007 DLS UP6 2-Way 6.5' Component System $238, found paypal invoice.

I bought NEW CADENCE 6.5" 300 WATT SLIM CAR COMPONENT SPEAKERS $69.95 USD and burn it

I bought Audiobahn and burn it.

I was very unhappy, i removed amplifier

It was in 2007-2008, now, after 10+ year i wish to continue burning speakers experiments :)

Loudness is priority. I will burn it again if it will be not load enough. Please recommend me budget setup. Bugdet!!! Burned cheap and expensive speakers smell the same

Doors with 6.5 speakers

Dashboard with 4" speakers and 1" tweeters. not sure about exact size
Option 1: disconnect dash speakers and install 2 way components speakers into door. Budget $100

Option 1.1: I have 2 set of crossovers and tweeters from DLS and Cadence, they alive

Option 2: Install 3 way, 6.5 into door, and 2 speakers in dashboard. Budget $150

I dont know what speakers will fit my dashboard

Thank you.

PS: I found $130 Massive Audio ZK6 (400W RMS) 6.5" ZK Series 2-Way Component Car Speakers

Power Handling:
    Peak: 800W per set / 400W each side
    RMS: 400W per set / 200W each side
Sensitivity: 93dB

Hard to believe
Click to expand...
you burned stuff because you completely clipped the amplifier forcing it to try to produce power it doesn't have a chance of producing which creates excessive heat in your speaker voice coils which blows your speakers. Doesnt matter  what the RMS rating for speakers is, if you fk up the signal you'll blow **** up. You literally bought waaaay too weak of an amp for the speakers you are trying to run and you cranked it up distorting the signal  because you arent happy with the output.  Note when i say distorting the signal, it doesnt mean you will hear audible distortion like buzzing or static, you wont hear it, you'll just smell it burning.   if loud is your main thing, get some 4 inch super tweeters, and some pro audio 6.5s midranges with 94 db sensitivity or higher.  For some budget sh*t you can do some ct sounds neos or skar fsx8s or prv 6.5s,  Your kenwood should have some tweeter high pass crossovers for the super tweeters, use the highest number crossover available and adjust the slope till it sounds good then EQ the rest out.  The kenwood doesnt have bandpass capabilities so you'll just have to leave the mids wide open only with a high pass. You dont really need to use any crossovers from your other sets.

As for an amp, get a pioneer gm 8604.which will be WAAAY more power than that power acoustik.   PS that power acoustic only makes 30 x 2 clean watts at best, its a bottom of the barrel extreme garbage amp with fake numbers to trick noobs to dont know better.

 
Thank you.

But crossover resistors burned too, they are ceramic, but plastic body deformated. Clipping does not burn resistors.

I have another power accoustik, it's poweracoustik pa2-1600, it larger, and rated 370rms per channel. Bad too? Ok

Ok, will buy Pioneer GM-D8604, but is class D good for speakers?

2 channels for tweeters and 2 channel for mids?

skar fsx8s is 8" and does not fit my doors

Skar Audio Fsx65 4 6.5" is OK and $20 each. Sensitivity 92.5, not 94 as you said. It's looks little bit cheap.

Anything better?

Twitter, they all cheap, for example Audiopipe (ATR-4061) 300 rms, sensitivity 105, looks nice. $30 each. This looks very good. But I can only read specs... if it's true.

 
alex6999 said:
Thank you.

But crossover resistors burned too, they are ceramic, but plastic body deformated. Clipping does not burn resistors.

I have another power accoustik, it's poweracoustik pa2-1600, it larger, and rated 370rms per channel. Bad too? Ok

Ok, will buy Pioneer GM-D8604, but is class D good for speakers?

2 channels for tweeters and 2 channel for mids?

skar fsx8s is 8" and does not fit my doors

Skar Audio Fsx65 4 6.5" is OK and $20 each. Sensitivity 92.5, not 94 as you said. It's looks little bit cheap.

Anything better?

Twitter, they all cheap, for example Audiopipe (ATR-4061) 300 rms, sensitivity 105, looks nice. $30 each. This looks very good. But I can only read specs... if it's true.
Click to expand...
if loud is your primary objective, a 3 way setup isnt going to be ideal for you, those are for sq more often times than not. Youre going to want gobs of power and pa style drivers, probably a couple on each side and some bullet style tweeters. I think youll find that with enough power, youll get the loudness you want and wont feel the need to crank the piss out of it because it actually sounds decent due to it not being starved of power which actually worsens the sound as you turn it up. Also, ive seen several passive crossovers burn up because of clipping. I was working at a car audio shop for many years back in the day and had some customers who refused to get bigger amps when they got better speakers and would be burning up crossovers, low and behold they had their gains pegged. He didnt say the skars were 94 db sensitivity. He said to get something with that kind of sensitivity and threw the skars out there as something to look at. "if loud is your main thing, get some 4 inch super tweeters, and some pro audio 6.5s midranges with 94 db sensitivity or higher.  For some budget sh*t you can do some ct sounds neos or skar fsx8s or prv 6.5s,"

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jeffdachef said:
Jeffdachef said:
you burned stuff because you completely clipped the amplifier forcing it to try to produce power it doesn't have a chance of producing which creates excessive heat in your speaker voice coils which blows your speakers. Doesnt matter  what the RMS rating for speakers is, if you fk up the signal you'll blow **** up. You literally bought waaaay too weak of an amp for the speakers you are trying to run and you cranked it up distorting the signal  because you arent happy with the output.  Note when i say distorting the signal, it doesnt mean you will hear audible distortion like buzzing or static, you wont hear it, you'll just smell it burning.   if loud is your main thing, get some 4 inch super tweeters, and some pro audio 6.5s midranges with 94 db sensitivity or higher.  For some budget sh*t you can do some ct sounds neos or skar fsx8s or prv 6.5s,  Your kenwood should have some tweeter high pass crossovers for the super tweeters, use the highest number crossover available and adjust the slope till it sounds good then EQ the rest out.  The kenwood doesnt have bandpass capabilities so you'll just have to leave the mids wide open only with a high pass. You dont really need to use any crossovers from your other sets.

As for an amp, get a pioneer gm 8604.which will be WAAAY more power than that power acoustik.   PS that power acoustic only makes 30 x 2 clean watts at best, its a bottom of the barrel extreme garbage amp with fake numbers to trick noobs to dont know better.
Click to expand...
also, where the hell have you been??
Click to expand...

 
alex6999 said:
Thank you.

But crossover resistors burned too, they are ceramic, but plastic body deformated. Clipping does not burn resistors.

I have another power accoustik, it's poweracoustik pa2-1600, it larger, and rated 370rms per channel. Bad too? Ok

Ok, will buy Pioneer GM-D8604, but is class D good for speakers?

2 channels for tweeters and 2 channel for mids?

skar fsx8s is 8" and does not fit my doors

Skar Audio Fsx65 4 6.5" is OK and $20 each. Sensitivity 92.5, not 94 as you said. It's looks little bit cheap.

Anything better?

Twitter, they all cheap, for example Audiopipe (ATR-4061) 300 rms, sensitivity 105, looks nice. $30 each. This looks very good. But I can only read specs... if it's true.
Click to expand...
Yes it does burn resistors and everything on the path. Stop buying garbage amps aka anything power acoustik. literally take their rms power numbers and divide it by 10 and you'll get more of an accurate number. 

class D doesn't matter as much as your overall install, tune and the amount of headroom you have for power. It'll run cooler and more efficient  as well. 
 

The skars are cheap but they do get loud and dont sound half bad.




 
Jeffdachef, thank you, but your video about 8" midbass

Fsx 8 - 94.5 dB

Fsx65 - 92.5 dB

2 db is 1.58 times louder

I better choose another brand you recommenced: PRV Audio

PRV Audio 6MB200-4, 100 RMS and 93 db, $27

PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY-4 with neodymium magnet, 125 RMS and 94 db, but $45

1 db is 26% louder.  So, which one to choose, regular or neodymium version?

PRV Audio 6MR500-NDY-4 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Woofer 4 Ohm(in your signature) 250 RMS, 96db, but $100, expensive, but will be 5 times more louder(at 250 RMS) than PRV Audio 6MB200-4 ????? or something wrong with my mathematics? Anyways this speakers needs bridged amp

6MB200-4 - $54+$75(half of amp) = $129

6MB250-NDY-4 - $90+$75 = $165, 1.26 louder

6MR500-NDY-4 - $200+$150 = $350 and 5 times louder, best value? or wrong mathematics again?

Tweeters, what about them?, I see, all of you using Massive CT 2 tweeters, but I have tweeters from DLS UP6 component speakers, its rated 50W RMS each and 93db, can I kill it with 100RMS amp? Actually I have factory installed 1" tweeter and 3-4" speaker in parallel, why not to same again? So I need tweeters with 4 mounting holes with exact 3" between holes to put in parallel with DLS tweeters.

How pioneer will work if 2 channels 4 ohm and another 2 ohm?

 
alex6999 said:
Jeffdachef, thank you, but your video about 8" midbass

Fsx 8 - 94.5 dB

Fsx65 - 92.5 dB

2 db is 1.58 times louder

I better choose another brand you recommenced: PRV Audio

PRV Audio 6MB200-4, 100 RMS and 93 db, $27

PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY-4 with neodymium magnet, 125 RMS and 94 db, but $45

1 db is 26% louder.  So, which one to choose, regular or neodymium version?

PRV Audio 6MR500-NDY-4 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Woofer 4 Ohm(in your signature) 250 RMS, 96db, but $100, expensive, but will be 5 times more louder(at 250 RMS) than PRV Audio 6MB200-4 ????? or something wrong with my mathematics? Anyways this speakers needs bridged amp

6MB200-4 - $54+$75(half of amp) = $129

6MB250-NDY-4 - $90+$75 = $165, 1.26 louder

6MR500-NDY-4 - $200+$150 = $350 and 5 times louder, best value? or wrong mathematics again?

Tweeters, what about them?, I see, all of you using Massive CT 2 tweeters, but I have tweeters from DLS UP6 component speakers, its rated 50W RMS each and 93db, can I kill it with 100RMS amp? Actually I have factory installed 1" tweeter and 3-4" speaker in parallel, why not to same again? So I need tweeters with 4 mounting holes with exact 3" between holes to put in parallel with DLS tweeters.

How pioneer will work if 2 channels 4 ohm and another 2 ohm?
Click to expand...
The video was just to let you see how they sort of sound like.. Those were 8 ohms so they were severely underpowered getting about 60ish watts per driver and they got that loud. We have em bridged and they are WAAAAY louder now. 

Its not going to be that big of a difference between the choices maybe one or two clicks on the volume knob. between 1 db.  As for tweeters, as long as you have it on a proper crossover, you shouldnt blow it. I have 150 rms going to an 80 rms tweeter, keep it clean and properly filtered and there should be zero issues in tweeters handling power.  I like the CT2s because they are a good balance between sounding good and loud.  The main difference between the MB and the NDY series is size and the neos handle a bit more power along with plays a bit higher up the frequency spectrum. Loudness is not too giant difference unless you have 450 watts going to the 250 rms prv neo then that thing becomes a monster. I've own both. 

If loud is the biggest concern, these tweeters are all over 102 db sensitivity however you'll definitely need to use your kenwood crossover  and EQ to tame them or else they will make your ears bleed in a bad way.  No you do not need to feed these full rms power, even if they are 8 ohms, they will split your ears with loudness.

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/horn-loaded-tweeters-midranges/35

You can use your dls tweeters first by themselves to see if it works or not but if you arent satisfied with them. Take em out and only use the new tweeters. You NEVER want to mix and match tweeters in the same car. 

 
alex6999 said:
6MB200-4 - $54+$75(half of amp) = $129

6MB250-NDY-4 - $90+$75 = $165, 1.26 louder

6MR500-NDY-4 - $200+$150 = $350 and 5 times louder, best value? or wrong mathematics again?
Click to expand...
wrong math again

id start off with the 6MB200s and put adequate power to them. they are the speakers i have and they do get very loud indeed

 
Jeffdachef said:
If loud is the biggest concern, these tweeters are all over 102 db sensitivity however you'll definitely need to use your kenwood crossover  and EQ to tame them or else they will make your ears bleed in a bad way.  No you do not need to feed these full rms power, even if they are 8 ohms, they will split your ears with loudness.
Click to expand...
sounds intriguing, but I definitely dont like what is wrote here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tweeter#Horn_tweeter

Will use my DLS tweeters.

Jeffdachef said:
You NEVER want to mix and match tweeters in the same car. 
Click to expand...
What happiness if i will install cheap marine horns outside vehicle?(and silk inside) There i need only loudness :)

Pyramid TW28 marine $22.98

youdoofus said:
start off with the 6MB200
Click to expand...
OK, start with them, thanks

 
alex6999 said:
sounds intriguing, but I definitely dont like what is wrote here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tweeter#Horn_tweeter

Will use my DLS tweeters.

What happiness if i will install cheap marine horns outside vehicle?(and silk inside) There i need only loudness :)

Pyramid TW28 marine $22.98

OK, start with them, thanks
Click to expand...
you can throw them outside it doesn't matter, as long as they arent interacting with the tweeters inside. if the DLS doesnt cut it, the massive ct2s are a nice compromise on loudness, durability and SQ.  However they would not like the power being split from you putting marine tweeters on the outside.  Also another thing that increases loudness is a 2ndary battery in the rear by the amps if you plan on running larger amounts of power in the future.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
How I can know my future amp (Pioneer 8604) not distorted?

Take FLAC with 500hz sinus, play it at full power and adjust amp gain to 20 volts AC on midbass 20x20/4 =100 watts. And 16 volts at 2khz on tweeters 16x16/4=64 watts

Correct?

 
alex6999 said:
How I can know my future amp (Pioneer 8604) not distorted?

Take FLAC with 500hz sinus, play it at full power and adjust amp gain to 20 volts AC on midbass 20x20/4 =100 watts. And 16 volts at 2khz on tweeters 16x16/4=64 watts

Correct?
Click to expand...
Nope, you dont use sine waves to set gains on mid and highs, music is overly dynamic and not a 0 db sine wave, setting it like that will just lead to utter disappointment in every way possible..  Just learn to recognize when you have speaker breakup aka when your speakers start sounding like **** (as in unpleasant and peaky/shouty and generally SQ goes out the window) or stops getting louder as you turn it up, thats already past clipping, tone it down several notches. You should have more power to play with so you wont be anywhere as disappointed as before.

 
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