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ThxOne

Subwoofer direction question.

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  I am not going to have a lower back seat as there will be an amp/battery/dsp rack in its place. Since I will have no lower back seat the thought occurred to me that I have no need for the rear seat, back rest either. You know, the two parts that fold down to access the trunk. My question is... Would it be better for sound quality to wall off that opening with the sub enclosure and fire the sub and port directly into the cab as opposed to keeping the seat backs installed and having the sub firing to the rear of the sealed off trunk?


2008 Pontiac G6 GT Coupe - Full Active Build Coming Soon (Technically in progress?)

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - Rolling Cluster F**K - But Sounds Good

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15 hours ago, ThxOne said:

  I am not going to have a lower back seat as there will be an amp/battery/dsp rack in its place. Since I will have no lower back seat the thought occurred to me that I have no need for the rear seat, back rest either. You know, the two parts that fold down to access the trunk. My question is... Would it be better for sound quality to wall off that opening with the sub enclosure and fire the sub and port directly into the cab as opposed to keeping the seat backs installed and having the sub firing to the rear of the sealed off trunk?

if youre not going to have the rear seat lower, might as well ditch the upper. Youll not have to push the subs as hard to get the same dband wont be muffled at all by the seatback foam. completely seal at the bulkhead and port into the cabin, itll work the exact same as a blowthru in a regular cab p/u. so you dont need to have the subs in the cabin at all and will have a god result as you wont have any of that GODDAMN BACK DASH RATTLE... :: clears throat :: sorry, i have a jiggle back thurr thats just driving me insane and its too cold for me to go do anything about it

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1 hour ago, youdoofus said:

if youre not going to have the rear seat lower, might as well ditch the upper. Youll not have to push the subs as hard to get the same dband wont be muffled at all by the seatback foam. completely seal at the bulkhead and port into the cabin, itll work the exact same as a blowthru in a regular cab p/u. so you dont need to have the subs in the cabin at all and will have a god result as you wont have any of that GODDAMN BACK DASH RATTLE... :: clears throat :: sorry, i have a jiggle back thurr thats just driving me insane and its too cold for me to go do anything about it

That was one of my concerns... the muffling of sound by the back seat itself. That is one of the reasons I didn't want any speakers mounted to the back dash, so the holes could let soundwaves pass through the back dash. If it is going to work better and sound better by firing directly into the cab then that is what will be done... Now to locate some black leather that matches my front seats so I can make everything blend together.


2008 Pontiac G6 GT Coupe - Full Active Build Coming Soon (Technically in progress?)

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - Rolling Cluster F**K - But Sounds Good

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A very basic idea of what I am doing... amps and stuff below... sub firing in.

Back-stuff.jpg


2008 Pontiac G6 GT Coupe - Full Active Build Coming Soon (Technically in progress?)

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - Rolling Cluster F**K - But Sounds Good

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If you wall off the trunk like that, make sure you are fully sealing the cabin off from the trunk. This includes all spaces around the opening as well as the rear parcel shelf under the rear window. 


giphy.gif

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3 hours ago, ThxOne said:

A very basic idea of what I am doing... amps and stuff below... sub firing in.

Back-stuff.jpg

make the shape of the plank as close to the bulkhead as possible and make a gasket out of a thick rubber and bolt it with 4 bolts across te top a couple on each side and maybe foam in the bottom. But cut away the excess foam on the inside of the cabin and make it look clean

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I think got this pic from of the builds of @keep_hope_alive

You could build a frame like that and seal around it, then do a slip in box design with an oversized baffle that is cut to fit over the frame and cover it like a beauty panel, then use lag bolts inside of the box that go into the frame to secure the box. That would allow you opportunity to remove the box in the future. 

accordtrunk_IBwall_fg005-1.jpg


giphy.gif

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Yep, that's the frame I built for my 2001 Accord.  I had 1/4-20 T-Nuts in the frame to allow me to swap baffles.  That photo album is here:

http://s38.photobucket.com/user/phat_funky_beats/library/Accord 2009/0610trunkIBwall?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 


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On 1/27/2019 at 10:20 PM, THATpurpleKUSH said:

I think got this pic from of the builds of @keep_hope_alive

You could build a frame like that and seal around it, then do a slip in box design with an oversized baffle that is cut to fit over the frame and cover it like a beauty panel, then use lag bolts inside of the box that go into the frame to secure the box. That would allow you opportunity to remove the box in the future. 

accordtrunk_IBwall_fg005-1.jpg

he did it right and with a certain amount of, shall we say, overkill LoL!! keep-hope-alive doesnt mess around in the slightest

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