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2RZ-FE

Amp in power protect

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So where do you guys mount your amps in a trunk? Flat or standing up? Where is your grounding location? Where does your power wire enter the trunk area? Need ideas to clean this mess of wires up to make it neat. 


Kenwood KDC-X597 head unit, Alpine R-S65C.2 comps, RF P300.2 amp, Pioneer TS-W3003D4 sub i(1.5cf @ 40hz), JBL GTR-1001 amp, Knukonceptz fuse blocks/wiring, Stinger 4k series rca's. 

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I try and mount flat if I can. Just so the board has equal heat distribution as heat rises ya know but have never had issues when I've had to go vertical. I Usually take the rear seat out including back rest and run it through there just make sure there's clearance for the wire not to get  pinched anywhere. Ground just depends on the car there's no 1 place just make sure it's a good ground. If you're unsure you can  check the resistance with a dmm.


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On 1/25/2019 at 8:09 PM, 2RZ-FE said:

So where do you guys mount your amps in a trunk? Flat or standing up? Where is your grounding location? Where does your power wire enter the trunk area? Need ideas to clean this mess of wires up to make it neat. 

flat, usually on its own board, but if thats not feasible, seat back also works just fine. Dont worry too much about the heat unless your amp is particularly hot as the entire shroud is a heat sink, and if your amp has a fan, even less to worry about. Grounding locations is pretty simple, run a bolt thru the very upper part of the side of the wall in your wheel well. Make sure there isnt anything on the other side of it when you do and tighten it down really well, once its all tight, you can have a shop tack weld it in place and theyll do this for just a couple bucks or jb weld it from the outside only and then spray it with something like flex-seal to make it waterproof again. If you get a shop to tack weld the bolts in place, id do a couple of them just in case, and then spray the same stuff on the outside to waterproof it. to make it neat, get yourself some loom like this https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving-braided/dp/B074GMNW7T/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1548770793&sr=1-2&keywords=woven+wire+loom

 

and taking the seat out is necessary, but ive always been able to fish the wires under the pivot point of the seatback

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I ordered a new fuse holder for under the hood. http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/inline-fuse-holders/sp/in-line-waterproof-mini-anl-fuse-holder/. This will have a 120A fuse.

The RF P300x2 amp has no onboard fuse so will be using one side of this. http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/distribution-fuse-blocks/sp/bassik-2-way-4-gauge-fuse-distribution-block/. It will have a 50 amp fuse. 

My JBL GTR-1001 has onboard fuses so won't run an inline fuse. It says to use a 105 amp fuse at the battery but I'm being conservative on the gain running it at 2 ohm so treating the amp like its a GTR-601 or running it at 4 ohm so a 70 amp fuse will do. 

Bought extra fuses.

The bottom of the seat comes out just by pushing back and pulling up at the front. 

I have the power wire running down the drivers side and running through the middle as it enters the trunk. My ground point currently is in the middle of the angled metal near the seat back between the floor and the trunk. May change it depending on where I rearrange the amps. 

RCA's are down the middle but away from the power. Speaker wires are down the sides away from the power wire. 

Now I need to decide if I really need the relay for two amp turn on or not. I will see how it goes without it.

Will look into the wire loom.

Edited by 2RZ-FE

Kenwood KDC-X597 head unit, Alpine R-S65C.2 comps, RF P300.2 amp, Pioneer TS-W3003D4 sub i(1.5cf @ 40hz), JBL GTR-1001 amp, Knukonceptz fuse blocks/wiring, Stinger 4k series rca's. 

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9 hours ago, 2RZ-FE said:

I ordered a new fuse holder for under the hood. http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/inline-fuse-holders/sp/in-line-waterproof-mini-anl-fuse-holder/. This will have a 120A fuse.

The RF P300x2 amp has no onboard fuse so will be using one side of this. http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/distribution-fuse-blocks/sp/bassik-2-way-4-gauge-fuse-distribution-block/. It will have a 50 amp fuse. 

My JBL GTR-1001 has onboard fuses so won't run an inline fuse. It says to use a 105 amp fuse at the battery but I'm being conservative on the gain running it at 2 ohm so treating the amp like its a GTR-601 or running it at 4 ohm so a 70 amp fuse will do. 

Bought extra fuses.

The bottom of the seat comes out just by pushing back and pulling up at the front. 

I have the power wire running down the drivers side and running through the middle as it enters the trunk. My ground point currently is in the middle of the angled metal near the seat back between the floor and the trunk. May change it depending on where I rearrange the amps. 

RCA's are down the middle but away from the power. Speaker wires are down the sides away from the power wire. 

Now I need to decide if I really need the relay for two amp turn on or not. I will see how it goes without it.

Will look into the wire loom.

that all sounds good man. The relay isnt necessary at all, esp for just two amps. Most amps just require a tickle of 12 volts to turn on, so not at all needed. if you get into a 5 or 6 amp situation, then you might want to consider it, but at this point all you need to do is couple a pair of 18 gauge wires and crimp them with the remote turn on wire and youll be fine. A lot of folks just get some mdf and carpet it to mount the amps to, some choose to make a cutout on the mdf behind the amp for cooling, and its a good idea, but not usually needed

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Got it all done just need to swap out the fuse block and under hood fuse holder when the new goodies show up. I got rid of the relay and things seem fine. Jumped from the more powerful amp to the other. 

Ground is on the floor where it slopes from the trunk floor to under the seat, made sure it clears. Didn't want to run a long ground to the sides of the trunk. 

Now need to get some wire shavings out of the carpet...

Edited by 2RZ-FE

Kenwood KDC-X597 head unit, Alpine R-S65C.2 comps, RF P300.2 amp, Pioneer TS-W3003D4 sub i(1.5cf @ 40hz), JBL GTR-1001 amp, Knukonceptz fuse blocks/wiring, Stinger 4k series rca's. 

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10 hours ago, 2RZ-FE said:

Ground is on the floor where it slopes from the trunk floor to under the seat, made sure it clears. Didn't want to run a long ground to the sides of the trunk. 

careful with that as that is where the gas tank is. I assume you used a self tapping sheet metal screw

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Used a 1/2” long self tap with lock washer since the sheet metal is thin. Covered it up with some aluminum tape in case it backs out. Sprayed it down with some flex seal. It’s not going anywhere. Plenty of clearance behind there. 


Kenwood KDC-X597 head unit, Alpine R-S65C.2 comps, RF P300.2 amp, Pioneer TS-W3003D4 sub i(1.5cf @ 40hz), JBL GTR-1001 amp, Knukonceptz fuse blocks/wiring, Stinger 4k series rca's. 

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3 hours ago, 2RZ-FE said:

Used a 1/2” long self tap with lock washer since the sheet metal is thin. Covered it up with some aluminum tape in case it backs out. Sprayed it down with some flex seal. It’s not going anywhere. Plenty of clearance behind there. 

good deal, you definitely dont want you play around with a punctured gas tank. at some point you may want to do the bolt thru the spare tire well from the outside in basically giving you a binding post. its better to have it tack welded on the outside so you can wrench on it on the inside, but not necessary

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