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varano_ohms

Amplifier -- Sub -- PSU -- Speakers

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Hi,

do you connect the amplifier to the 2 jacks (RED-WHITE) behind the radio and the sub do you connect it to the amplifier?

having a 250w psu is enough for sub amplifier and a 2x 60w speakers?

car radio aiwa 40Wx4

 

Thanks

Regards

 

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1 hour ago, varano_ohms said:

Hi,

do you connect the amplifier to the 2 jacks (RED-WHITE) behind the radio and the sub do you connect it to the amplifier?

having a 250w psu is enough for sub amplifier and a 2x 60w speakers?

car radio aiwa 40Wx4

 

Thanks

Regards

 

so, you have a computer PSU youre using to connect to car audio stuff that you want to use in your home, right?

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17 hours ago, youdoofus said:

so, you have a computer PSU youre using to connect to car audio stuff that you want to use in your home, right?

yes, i have already connected the radio to psu 250W with a 60W speaker front right

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7 minutes ago, varano_ohms said:

yes, i have already connected the radio to psu 250W with a 60W speaker front right

first thing you need to know is that you need to get away from the watt ratings of a psu if youre using it outside of its intended purpose. Computer PSUs output voltage and amperage. Typically all PSUs will output 3.3, 5 and 12 volts. You want to ignore the 3.3 and 5 volt wires. The 12 volt wires are usually coming from a singular transformer, just split into multiple wires so that the molex plugs they connect to can evenly distribute the power where it needs to go. You arent using it for that anymore, so youre best off just cutting the molex off and summing them on something metal and insulated as to avoid sparks etc, but still get the full amperage you can from the PSU. If you dont do this, youll run the risk of trying to pull too much current thru tiny ass wires and thereby heating them past the point where their shielding is designed to protect them at, it melting or burning, then FOOM, fire...

 

Anyways, the deck needs +12v and gnd(which can also be obtained from the PSU) so does the amp. The deck will have a "constant" and a "switched" for +12v, and unless you plan on leaving the psu on at all times (HORRIBLE IDEA) youre going to run into the need of resetting your bass/treble etc etc if theyre digitally controlled inside the deck or find some alternate source of a tiny amount of +12v and a ground to maintain the internal memory on the deck and use the PSU for its main power.

 

the red and whites youre talking about are rca's for audio out from the deck to the amp. and yes, you then connect the sub to the amp. anyways, are you sure you understand the risks of playing with 12 volts in a home situation? Its a great idea on finding a way to burn everything you own to the ground if youre not taking precautions. If youre just cannibalizing a dead desktop pc to run some old car audio stuff in your house instead of spending a little bit of cash on a plate amp or a used PA amp, you had better know what youre doing man. It doesnt sound like you do since youre trying to use a 250 watt psu on a deck AND an amp. I use a 450 watt psu for testing car stuff just to see if it powers up and if itll play music at all, difference is that my 450 watt psu has been properly converted and i know how many amperes it outputs vs the drap on the stuff im hooking up is

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thank you
however I'm not going to connect amplifier and sub for now because I imagine 250W are few.
it would take at least 500W. correct?
(omitting for a moment amperage and voltage)

 

"you are therefore better by cutting the molex and adding them on something metallic and isolated to avoid sparks, etc.,"

you could send me a picture and kindly tell me how to do and which wires to cut
the 12V I took from the largest molex (24 pins), the other molex are free are not connected to the ground.
until now using the low volume radio there have been no sparks or problems

 

Edited by varano_ohms

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1 hour ago, varano_ohms said:

thank you
however I'm not going to connect amplifier and sub for now because I imagine 250W are few.
it would take at least 500W. correct?
(omitting for a moment amperage and voltage)

 

"you are therefore better by cutting the molex and adding them on something metallic and isolated to avoid sparks, etc.,"

you could send me a picture and kindly tell me how to do and which wires to cut
the 12V I took from the largest molex (24 pins), the other molex are free are not connected to the ground.
until now using the low volume radio there have been no sparks or problems

 

decks will only pull about 10 amperes even at full tilt, hence why they are fused that way. The yellow ones are usually +12v and the black ones ground. Blue and red are usually 3.3 and 5 respectively. A cheap DMM will help you with determining which are which beyond the color coding i provided Get a fuse container and sum them all up on the post in it, find out what amperage the psu can put out and fuse to a hair below that. E.g. if it says itll put out 4 amps, fuse it to 35. The 500 watt psu should put out around 70 or so, but the diagram on the bottom of the unit should tell you what kind of power it is capable of.

 

The big molex is the only one that has any +12v at all or any worth giving a f*ck about. but seriously, get a plank of wood, or something not metallic to mount the PSU, the fuse bock and a ground coupling block to in avoidance of any variables that could cause you issues

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Hi,
from the PSU I only used the yellow and black cable (from the 24 pin molex I did not get them because the yellow and black cable are present)
I can not remember if it's + 12V1DC-8A or + 12V2DC-14A

the fuses are:     15A yellow radio cable
                           0.5A blue radio cable
I connected green (molex 24 pin) + black to a switch to turn on the PSU

I isolated the orange and blue cables from the radio

molex 4 pin (2 yellow + 2 black) is not used

I cut and isolate the sata cables.

psu is leaned on the wood momentarily and the cables are insulated and free
so what should I do?

 

radio cables :     

-yellow  _+12V

-black  _ground

-red     _switch

-orange _illumination

-blue _antenna remote

         

 

 

fuse.jpg

psu fsp.jpg

wiring.jpg

molex.jpg

Edited by varano_ohms

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1 hour ago, varano_ohms said:

psu is leaned on the wood momentarily and the cables are insulated and free
so what should I do?

 

radio cables :     

-yellow  _+12V

-black  _ground

-red     _switch

-orange _illumination

-blue _antenna remote

         

on the radio, ditch the orange and blue. cut them and cap them. red and yellow together to the +12v (black and yellow) and black to black.

 

That psu will be enough for the deck, but not also an amp. Period

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the cable connections are already made as you can see from the photos and the cables already cut and insulated.
I would like to know now what I should do to secure everything.
and what is the sufficient power required to put an amplifier and a sub + 2 speakers

there are 2 lines at 12v with different amperage (+ 12V1DC-8A or + 12V2DC-14A)
where is it better to connect the radio by choosing between the two?

how I identify the two 12V lines since the yellow cable is 12V and the black one is the ground

Edited by varano_ohms

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5 hours ago, varano_ohms said:

the cable connections are already made as you can see from the photos and the cables already cut and insulated.
I would like to know now what I should do to secure everything.
and what is the sufficient power required to put an amplifier and a sub + 2 speakers

there are 2 lines at 12v with different amperage (+ 12V1DC-8A or + 12V2DC-14A)
where is it better to connect the radio by choosing between the two?

how I identify the two 12V lines since the yellow cable is 12V and the black one is the ground

it says on the sticker that the yellow is the 8 amp and the yeloow/black is the 14 amp. just sum them on a copper binding post

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there are no yellow / black wires
there are only yellow wires
I got a yellow one like + 12v and a black one that is the ground
at this point I do not know what are at 8A and 14A
how to distinguish them?

i dont understand this: "just sum them on a copper binding post


and
what is the sufficient power required to put an amplifier and a sub + 2 speakers?( this is my first question)

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38 minutes ago, varano_ohms said:

there are no yellow / black wires
there are only yellow wires
I got a yellow one like + 12v and a black one that is the ground
at this point I do not know what are at 8A and 14A
how to distinguish them?

i dont understand this: "just sum them on a copper binding post


and
what is the sufficient power required to put an amplifier and a sub + 2 speakers?( this is my first question)

it shows yellow as 8 amp and yellow\blk as 14 amp

 

summing them just means to put them together, you theoretically should get 22 amperes from doing this. Youre going to want to have a pretty short lead from the PSU and get a thicker wire from there to avoid the wire heating up.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz thing.jpg

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then I took the yellow cable and a black one separately this means I have 14A flowing?
(I have not connected them together)

 

Edited by varano_ohms

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On 1/26/2019 at 4:21 AM, varano_ohms said:

then I took the yellow cable and a black one separately this means I have 14A flowing?
(I have not connected them together)

 

no, the yellow one does 8 amps and the yellow one with the black stripe does 14 amps.

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40 minutes ago, youdoofus said:

no, the yellow one does 8 amps and the yellow one with the black stripe does 14 amps.

There are no yellow cables with the black stripe and I've said it several times
and even the images speak for themselves

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2 minutes ago, varano_ohms said:

There are no yellow cables with the black stripe and I've said it several times
and even the images speak for themselves

i know youve said it several times, but the diagram on your psu says there is one. so youre either missing it, the sticker is lying or the black on the yellow wire has worn off. do you have a dmm?

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On 1/27/2019 at 9:45 PM, youdoofus said:

i know youve said it several times, but the diagram on your psu says there is one. so youre either missing it, the sticker is lying or the black on the yellow wire has worn off. do you have a dmm?

you are right
it may be that it is consummated and I do not see it or see it only yellow

yes I have a DMM

What should I measure to identify the cables?

how do I put the psu in safety?
Do I have to connect the frame with a cable to the ground or do I have to put it in a wooden box?

if I connect the 2 cables with different amperage and their sum gives me about 22A after I have to put a bigger type 1.5 or 2.5 mm cable?

the fuse higher than 22A?

Thanks

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4 hours ago, varano_ohms said:

you are right
it may be that it is consummated and I do not see it or see it only yellow

yes I have a DMM

Thanks

What should I measure to identify the cables?

just find all the 12v ones and combine them

how do I put the psu in safety?

huh?


Do I have to connect the frame with a cable to the ground or do I have to put it in a wooden box?

no, it will provide the sufficient ground it needs inherently by the inverter based on the + voltage it outputs.

if I connect the 2 cables with different amperage and their sum gives me about 22A after I have to put a bigger type 1.5 or 2.5 mm cable?

sum them as close as you can you the PSU, and use a bigger cable from there to connect your stuff

the fuse higher than 22A?

the total output will be 22a based on the diagram on the PSU

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20 hours ago, youdoofus said:

What should I measure to identify the cables?

just find all the 12v ones and combine them

how do I put the psu in safety?

huh?


Do I have to connect the frame with a cable to the ground or do I have to put it in a wooden box?

no, it will provide the sufficient ground it needs inherently by the inverter based on the + voltage it outputs.

if I connect the 2 cables with different amperage and their sum gives me about 22A after I have to put a bigger type 1.5 or 2.5 mm cable?

sum them as close as you can you the PSU, and use a bigger cable from there to connect your stuff

the fuse higher than 22A?

the total output will be 22a based on the diagram on the PSU

I did not understand how to use the dmm in amperage to measure the current on 12v
joining all the yellow cables I could not distinguish them

if I join the yellow cables of what should be the cable in mm or AWG?
on this larger cable the fuse than it should be? since I get 22A
the fuse must be greater than 22A? how much? the diagram of the psu I do not have it

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3 hours ago, varano_ohms said:

I did not understand how to use the dmm in amperage to measure the current on 12v
joining all the yellow cables I could not distinguish them

if I join the yellow cables of what should be the cable in mm or AWG?
on this larger cable the fuse than it should be? since I get 22A
the fuse must be greater than 22A? how much? the diagram of the psu I do not have it

I did not understand how to use the dmm in amperage to measure the current on 12v
joining all the yellow cables I could not distinguish them

you dont use a DMM to measure amperage, you use a clamp meter like this https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-323-True-RMS-Clamp-Meter/dp/B00AQKIEXY/ref=asc_df_B00AQKIEXY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312167987195&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8862005689326562957&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017953&hvtargid=pla-439349889262&psc=1

this one is pretty expensive, and you can get one for around $25 but for what youre doing, it shouldnt be necessary. Just know that the 14 + 8 amps will equal 22 amps of max output

if I join the yellow cables of what should be the cable in mm or AWG?

 What? from where you join them to what youre connecting them to? if thats what youre asking, 8 awg should do it plenty fine


on this larger cable the fuse than it should be? since I get 22A

fuse it at 20 to be safe, but 25 will very likely be fine as well. id fuse it at 25 personally


the fuse must be greater than 22A? how much? the diagram of the psu I do not have it

the fuse should be at a level that prevents amperage higher than what you want to be thrown at your equipment to be. in this case, it would mainly be to prevent a amperage spike if the PSU goes out and spikes temporarily

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