Jump to content


Recommended Posts

I have tried so many things but none worked so far. I have a JVC KW-DB93BT and a McHammer Mystic 5.1 amp. When i connect 1 RCA cable to my amp from my head unit there is no whine, but as soon as i put in the other RCA cable into the head unit alternator noise starts coming from the speakers that are connected to the amp.

I also tried a few fixes from this pinned topic (>>>Engine whine and ground loop fixes... take two) but none have worked so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey there mate!

Thanks for bringing up your issue,  The issue is with your head unit poor grounding inside the unit itself.  I have had this issue previously with Sony and Pioneer head units.

What you need to do is":

  • take out your current head unit;
  • apply speaker wires around your rear RCA inputs of your head unit, into a figure '8' to all of the RCA Inputs, ( if you have three, do all of them)
  • after you have go the bare copper speaker wires to form a figure 8 shape, apply solder so it holds it shape;
  • Ground all the speaker wires to the rear of your head unit to one point;
  • Reconnect all the RCA with the figure 8 wires and the RCA CABLES will hold them in place;
  • Check your grounding point and distribution connector terminals are all securely tightened on the amplifier and the grounding point as well;
  • Check your head unit grounding point is getting a good contact as well;
  • Hopefully, this should rectify your issue mate!

Let us know how you go.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

McHammer??!!?? *scratches head*

 

Anyhow, I would try a diff set of RCA's see if that works. And check your ground. Bare metal to bare metal. These are the main reasons for alt whine.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/11/2019 at 2:37 AM, DRBOOM said:

Hey there mate!

Thanks for bringing up your issue,  The issue is with your head unit poor grounding inside the unit itself.  I have had this issue previously with Sony and Pioneer head units.

What you need to do is":

  • take out your current head unit;
  • apply speaker wires around your rear RCA inputs of your head unit, into a figure '8' to all of the RCA Inputs, ( if you have three, do all of them)
  • after you have go the bare copper speaker wires to form a figure 8 shape, apply solder so it holds it shape;
  • Ground all the speaker wires to the rear of your head unit to one point;
  • Reconnect all the RCA with the figure 8 wires and the RCA CABLES will hold them in place;
  • Check your grounding point and distribution connector terminals are all securely tightened on the amplifier and the grounding point as well;
  • Check your head unit grounding point is getting a good contact as well;
  • Hopefully, this should rectify your issue mate!

Let us know how you go.

 

I will try this one out and give you an update if this resolves my issue

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create a free account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's free & easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


  • Similar Content

    • By Boboblittz
      Hello all
      Ive had an Orion hcca300.1dsplx for a couple of months now. Amazing amplifier! But Im in the process of getting an rma which is proving to be difficult to say the least. 
      I have never had an issue like this. The amplifier when given power turns on and the light is green as well as the fan is spinning. No sounds comes out and it just makes a clicking noise over and over and over and doesnt play sound. The only way to make it play is to keep cutting power and turning it back on until it works. Thats not okay.
      Has anybody ever experienced this and know how to fix this? It seems to do it more when it's colder outside.
      Like I said, the amplifier is awesome but if anyone has experienced this, please talk about your experience.
      Thanks!
      Brandon
    • By Michael Poole
      Hey guys I'm brand new to this forum and need a little help. I apologize up front if this question has already been answered. If so please shoot me a link. I've scoped the internet far and wide and can't find a good answer. Anyway, let's get to the point. I'm in the works of new audio build and I want to run a high output alternator straight to a battery bank that will power all of my subs (8 in total totaling 2700 watts rms) then I want to run a step above stock alternator to the start battery and high/mid range speakers. So here's the problem (or at least I think so). The alternator grounds to the engine directly through the mounting bolts so unless I make an insane alternator mount I can't avoid having 2 power sources sharing the same ground. 
      Is this even a problem? Can you share the same ground or will you ultimately be connecting the batteries together? I want the systems to be completely separate but the more I think about it the more I think I'm not going to be able to do it. 
      Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if the question is layed out poorly hard to think of the right words and terminology.
      As a side note in case anyone is curious, the build I'm on is 2 15" JLW0v3's, 2 12" JLW0v3, 2 10" JLW0v3's, 2 8" JLW3v3, 2 6.5" JL C7 speakers, 2 1" JL C7 tweeters, 2 5.5" JL C5 speakers, and 2 .75" JL C5 tweeters. 8 subs 8 speakers as many different sizes as possible all on a pioneer p99 in a chevy astro. All JL amps as well except for the highs and mids only because I love pioneer for multi channel applications. 
    • By Alejandro17
      So I'm intrested in two Soundstream T5.122 Tarantula T5 Series 2,000 Watt 12″ Subwoofers each is rated at 1,000 RMS. I used the amplifier slection tool on https://www.sonicelectronix.com/Matching-Subwoofers-Amps/2-63-94454?filter_f_op_123=232 . I know I want a class D mono amplifier and I want each speaker to have 1,000 or more RMS but no more than 1,500. I'm planning on adding this to my 2004 Ford F150 XLT Extended Cab. The vehicle has a OEM 110A alternator and a regular 12V battery. I need some help if whether or not I have an adequate amount of power to run the whole system.
    • By Drbueler
      Does anyone have any suggestions for me. Im looking for a high output alternator for my truck. I have an Orion HCCA 5000.1 powering 4 Sundown Audio 12's and a HCCA 2000.4 for the doors.
    • By jsmitty
      I believe the stock one is something around 90A, and that's just not cutting it. Let me know what you have :-)
×