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Hi people, first post here and I'm building my first system. I will be running an Orion XTR-2500.1Dz amp powering an HCCA 12" black coil sub. I've currently got a 150a alternator on the stock electrical in my Mk7 transit sport. My question is what alternator/battery combo will I need. The amp is rated at 2500w RMS @1Ω though it has been bench tested here : https://youtu.be/DMBV0dVAtUo at 6744w Rms (I don't know wether to believe that or not). Can anybody help me make the calculations. Thanks, Gaz.
Ive had an Orion hcca300.1dsplx for a couple of months now. Amazing amplifier! But Im in the process of getting an rma which is proving to be difficult to say the least.
I have never had an issue like this. The amplifier when given power turns on and the light is green as well as the fan is spinning. No sounds comes out and it just makes a clicking noise over and over and over and doesnt play sound. The only way to make it play is to keep cutting power and turning it back on until it works. Thats not okay.
Has anybody ever experienced this and know how to fix this? It seems to do it more when it's colder outside.
Like I said, the amplifier is awesome but if anyone has experienced this, please talk about your experience.
By Michael Poole
Hey guys I'm brand new to this forum and need a little help. I apologize up front if this question has already been answered. If so please shoot me a link. I've scoped the internet far and wide and can't find a good answer. Anyway, let's get to the point. I'm in the works of new audio build and I want to run a high output alternator straight to a battery bank that will power all of my subs (8 in total totaling 2700 watts rms) then I want to run a step above stock alternator to the start battery and high/mid range speakers. So here's the problem (or at least I think so). The alternator grounds to the engine directly through the mounting bolts so unless I make an insane alternator mount I can't avoid having 2 power sources sharing the same ground.
Is this even a problem? Can you share the same ground or will you ultimately be connecting the batteries together? I want the systems to be completely separate but the more I think about it the more I think I'm not going to be able to do it.
Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if the question is layed out poorly hard to think of the right words and terminology.
As a side note in case anyone is curious, the build I'm on is 2 15" JLW0v3's, 2 12" JLW0v3, 2 10" JLW0v3's, 2 8" JLW3v3, 2 6.5" JL C7 speakers, 2 1" JL C7 tweeters, 2 5.5" JL C5 speakers, and 2 .75" JL C5 tweeters. 8 subs 8 speakers as many different sizes as possible all on a pioneer p99 in a chevy astro. All JL amps as well except for the highs and mids only because I love pioneer for multi channel applications.
So I'm intrested in two Soundstream T5.122 Tarantula T5 Series 2,000 Watt 12″ Subwoofers each is rated at 1,000 RMS. I used the amplifier slection tool on https://www.sonicelectronix.com/Matching-Subwoofers-Amps/2-63-94454?filter_f_op_123=232 . I know I want a class D mono amplifier and I want each speaker to have 1,000 or more RMS but no more than 1,500. I'm planning on adding this to my 2004 Ford F150 XLT Extended Cab. The vehicle has a OEM 110A alternator and a regular 12V battery. I need some help if whether or not I have an adequate amount of power to run the whole system.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me. Im looking for a high output alternator for my truck. I have an Orion HCCA 5000.1 powering 4 Sundown Audio 12's and a HCCA 2000.4 for the doors.