Help Troubleshooting Sub with No Sound

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easterbran

CarAudio.com Newbie
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Hey everyone, I'm new here and a novice with car audio. I recently installed a powered subwoofer (integrated amp) into my Subaru Outback using the factory headunit and speakers, and it was working well, but suddenly won't work anymore. I had not changed any connections, settings, or anything else between when the sub worked and when it stopped working. I am looking for advice on troubleshooting steps to take. Please have a look through the details and let me know if there are any things I can try. Thanks!

The Problem:

Subwoofer will not produce any sound even with max Gain (LPF set to about half), audio source (bluetooth smartphone) equalizer set with bass to max and volume all the way up). Subwoofer used to make an audible "pop" noise when turning the sub on and off when it worked properly, but no-longer does so. Note that I used to have a similar issue with the same sub in my other car (aftermarket headunit, Alpine 4-ch amp, aftermarket speakers), so my money is on something wrong with the sub itself.

EDIT: Something weird I just noticed. The gain dial on the sub ranges from 6V-0.1V. That is, fully counterclockwise is at 6V. Is my Gain dial reversed from the normal "Clockwise is more gain"? See attached pic.

System:

-2001 Subaru Outback Base (Factory Headunit and speakers)

-PAC SNI-35 Line Output Converter (to use RCA cables with factory headunit, I tapped into the front speakers)

-MTX RT8PT Powered Sub (120 W RMS)

Connections:

-8-Gauge power wire from car battery (with inline 40A fuse)

-Ground from sub to frame, ring terminal soldered onto 8-Gauge ground wire, screwed with sheet metal screw into unpainted frame (NOTE: I did not sand the area because it was unpainted)

-Remote turn-on wire from headunit 12V ACC to sub

-Twisted Pair RCA cables from LOC (behind headunit) back to sub (NOTE: one female RCA jack on the sub was broken (internal plastic was missing and brand new RCA cables would not plug in to only this jack), so I soldered in a new RCA female jack, and all was working well).

Proposed Troubleshooting Steps (Green is what I've already done):

  1. Verify inline fuse (in engine bay) and fuse on sub are good (both visually inspected to be ok. Subwoofer Power LED turns on when car is on, and off when car is off).
  2. Make sure sub speaker is not blown with 9V battery test (connected 9V battery to 12V+ and Ground terminals on sub and the speaker pops out just a bit) (I had also checked Resistance across the sub speaker itself and saw a non-zero, constant reading, so I assumed it was not blown). May need to recheck these.
  3. Verify amp on sub is not in Protection mode (Protec. LED is OFF)
  4. Verify Gain is not off on sub (Gain set to max)
  5. Using DMM, test that subwoofer is receiving 12V+
  6. Using DMM, play something like a 50 Hz test-tone and look for AC signal coming through both RCA cables (remember the RCA cables are brand new, so I don't think they are bad)
  7. Sand ground area on frame and reattach sub ground terminal, make sure connection is snug
  8. Check front speaker to LOC connections behind Headunit and make sure they are still intact (they were soldered and heatshrinked) and not shorted
  9. LOC has adjustable gain for each of the two channels, make sure they are at least 50% (though everything was working before with whatever the current LOC gain settings are)
  10. LOC has two brown ground wires coming out of it. The instructions say "Connect the brown wires to ground only if there is no sound from the amplifier". Currently the two brown wires are not connected to anything (and this configuration worked fine before, so I'm not sure why this would change anything).
amp_settings.JPG

 
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Nice work troubleshooting so far.  Using a DMM is the correct approach.   A 9V battery should make the sub move a lot.  Power the sub from a known source to verify.

 
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Update on the troubleshooting... I am still stumped:

  • Sub is receiving 12.6V + to the Power terminal, and 12.3V + to Remote Turn-On terminal. The sub turns on and off with the car, as expected, and I hear a faint pop coming from the sub. Power LED lights up Red.
  • Playing music, I see 0-0.2V AC on both RCA cables coming from the LOC. Playing a 50 Hz test-tone, I see 0.3V AC on both RCA cables. So there is definitely some signal coming through them (as there should be, these are brand new cables).
  • I didn't like the way one of the Female RCA jacks looked (see pic) and it was difficult to get a good contact with the RCA male pin. The one on the right is the old one, and you can see how the conductive material is recessed waaaay deeper into the socket than the new socket on the left (you can see the gold conductive material right at the edge of the hole on the left one). I soldered in the new female RCA and verified that connections were good with the DMM.
  • I went through all wiring, capacitors, Gain potentiometer, FETs, etc. inside the subwoofer amp with the DMM and found nothing wrong. All solder joints looked good, no bulging capacitors, nothing.
  • I connected a 9V battery across the sub speaker and it moved noticeably, so the speaker is not blown.
  • I then sanded the unpainted area that I had previously used for Ground, as well as the washer I used between the sheet metal screw and ring terminal. The connection to Ground is rock-solid and clean.
  • I double-checked the sub's amp fuse, inline power fuse, all fuses in my car related to radio, and they were all fine. I did notice that my rear right speaker is not working, but this shouldn't matter since the LOC is tapped into the front speakers.
  • The only settings on the factory headunit allow for Bass, Treble, Fade, and Balance. I tried every combination of these possible, as well as messed with my phone (audio source) equalizer settings with no luck.
The last thing to try, suggested to me on Reddit, is to pick up a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and try playing my phone through the sub directly. If that works ok, then I need to check my RCA cables and LOC connections behind the headunit.

Please let me know if anyone has any other things to try.

20181215_064042.jpg

 
Last edited by a moderator:
SOLVED! There was a loose solder joint on a resistor on the Power circuit-board in the amp. 

I had hooked my phone directly to the sub using a RCA to 3.5 mm mini adapter and got no bass, so I knew it was something with the sub.

I then started going through the internal amp connections with the DMM (checking for continuity) when I noticed that the terminals that output to the sub speaker were reading only a few mV. I used a 9V battery to provide power while testing. Sure enough, there was a bad joint, which I quickly added some solder to. If you bent the leg just right, it would make a connection, which explains why it used to work intermittently (until the bass vibrated the connection back out of place). Bass hits hard and sounds great :)

Inked20181215_230938_LI.jpg

 
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easterbran

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