Subwoofer problems

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Lewis Newton

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Hi, I have a 2005 ford fiesta mk6, 5 dr, 5x7 door speaker in each door, with a 1000w JBL subwoofer with a 200w nikkai amp connected to it. I have just transferred my system over from my old car which was the exact same that had an engine failure. Anyway, since transferring I have had a strange problem with the subwoofer. The whole sound system works perfectly with no flaws when i turn it up to max. However, as soon as the car starts moving, the subwoofer stops working properly, and the power light starts flickering. The sub sounds alot quieter and cuts in and out randomly. When a pull up to and junction and stop periodically, it will start working properly, before doing the same thing when I move off. Due to the power light flickering I assume its a problem with the power being delivered to the amp, although I can't understand for the life of me what it could be. Is there some variable output that I may have accidentally attached my remote cable to or something.

P.s I haven't changed any of head unit wiring since the old car which I didn't have the problem. 

 
Hi, I have a 2005 ford fiesta mk6, 5 dr, 5x7 door speaker in each door, with a 1000w JBL subwoofer with a 200w nikkai amp connected to it. I have just transferred my system over from my old car which was the exact same that had an engine failure. Anyway, since transferring I have had a strange problem with the subwoofer. The whole sound system works perfectly with no flaws when i turn it up to max. However, as soon as the car starts moving, the subwoofer stops working properly, and the power light starts flickering. The sub sounds alot quieter and cuts in and out randomly. When a pull up to and junction and stop periodically, it will start working properly, before doing the same thing when I move off. Due to the power light flickering I assume its a problem with the power being delivered to the amp, although I can't understand for the life of me what it could be. Is there some variable output that I may have accidentally attached my remote cable to or something.

P.s I haven't changed any of head unit wiring since the old car which I didn't have the problem. 
I thought you said in your other thread it wasn't the wiring? In fact you told me to forget about the wiring it wasn't the problem. 

Variable output? That does what lowers the power when your car moves? 

Idk I tried to help ya out. You seemed to think you had it handled at least what wasn't causing any problems  I kinda gave up I was just curious how you had things wired. Thought I surely miss read something 

You should post a pic of your install maybe someone can point you in the right direction. Besides  Id like to see that remote cable anyway.

 
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I've reverted the system back to a standard wiring. RCA cables from the sub out on the hu, everything else is standard other than the messy connections from where i'd cut the wires 

 
I've reverted the system back to a standard wiring. RCA cables from the sub out on the hu, everything else is standard other than the messy connections from where i'd cut the wires 
Good at least you're starting to listen. Thought u were a lost cause. I suspect your whole set up is off.

I'd suggest fixing the messy wiring 1st. Like I said I'm not familiar with that amp. However there's probably a switch on it marked hp (high pass) ap (all pass) and l.p.  (low pass). Put that on ap. Use the low pass crossover for your sub in your head unit. Start out at 80 Hz. U can go up a little or down a little whatever you like best. 

Research how to set gains by ear. You'll want the subwoofer level on the head unit set to max when you set your gain. Hopefully you have the amp wired bridged correctly. Since you're using the head units amplifier it probably starts clipping at around  3/4 volume. Research what clipping is if you don't know. After you determine where your hu starts clipping one notch below that will be your max volume and where you want the volume at when u set your gain. I also suggest not using bass boost at the amp or hu.

The car audio installer you talked to is either messing with you or retarded. Either way not trust worthy.

Just a little basic stuff you need to know  read all you can on this site and every where else you can. Good luck...

 
Yes I've sorted it thanks, turns out it was all just a bad ground, was only reading 6V for some reason ffs. Alot of time wasted but atleast I got there in the end lol

 
Yes I've sorted it thanks, turns out it was all just a bad ground, was only reading 6V for some reason ffs. Alot of time wasted but atleast I got there in the end lol
Time wasted? What turnip truck did you fall of off? Did you read your other thread thoroughly? Yeah that ground was the only thing that was wrong lol. Only wasted time was on my part. 

Good luck with your equipment...

 
Turns out it wasn't the problem, I just didn't turn the system up loud enough. Still happening. I've completely rewired everything I've messed with to what you said. The power cable and remote wire and ground are fine and read perfect voltages. Honestly I completely and utterly lost for what to do at this point. Thought the alternator may not be charging the battery enough whilst driving, but its a 90A whereas the other car was 70A which it worked on fine.  

 
Turns out it wasn't the problem, I just didn't turn the system up loud enough. Still happening. I've completely rewired everything I've messed with to what you said. The power cable and remote wire and ground are fine and read perfect voltages. Honestly I completely and utterly lost for what to do at this point. Thought the alternator may not be charging the battery enough whilst driving, but its a 90A whereas the other car was 70A which it worked on fine.  
So you're saying voltage doesn't move when you're playing very hard?

 
No, if anything i think it's the other way round the voltage is 12V when parked, but when I start moving the power light flickers if the sub is on over a certain volume. I assume it's drawing too much power for the car to handle. But doesn't really make much sense seeing as its a 200W amp on a 1000W (supposedly) woofer. 

 
I suspect that amp has garbage watt ratings and is complete garbage...never heard of that brand for one. For all you know, that 200 watt amp could push out 75 watts to a 1k sub. Clip clip city *****...2, that JBL sub you say handles 1k rms is prob not true....unless it's the older sub, I don't know and you never said what model # it was/is and no pics either. Sounds like your gain setting on the amp is way high, causing the amp to go into protect by overdriving it.

 
I suspect that amp has garbage watt ratings and is complete garbage...never heard of that brand for one. 
Op IS in the UK... I've never seen such crazy issues till these threads appear.

Somethings either being missed in translation or its just pure junk like a lot of equipment posted about by citizens of the UK.

 
Agree with Boomin Tahoe here,  Never heard of that amp, would be a cheapie Flea market gear.  Suggest you try another amp in your system so you can rectify the culprit, most likely it would be your amp.

Secondly, what power wiring are you using to power your system, 8 guage, 4 gauge, 2 gauge???

Please don't tell me you are using stock power wiring to run this amp?

 
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Lewis Newton

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