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Gotyoulooking

SQ Vs SLP Real life applications

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10 hours ago, Gotyoulooking said:

Before anything research XJ electrical problems, one of the things you’ll find is the limited alternator options. I got lucky and have a 124amp from factory, but I’m planning on changing it to a 160amp with some grinding of the mounting bracket. Then you must do the Big 3. XJ’s are known for poor quality wires, or from my experience, the factory wires don’t have many strands and with our vehicles age become brittle and has a potential for cracking. Do the big 3 run all new speaker wires and see from there if you need a bigger alt. What year is yours? So far I’ve done the big 3, all new speaker wires to doors and back headliner pods. I get small dips here and there but nothing crazy. Look a my sig for what I have so far. Will be looking for comps down the line though. 

Between certain years, Chrysler was nice enough to put the alternators voltage regulator in the vehicles computer. This made things for those of us wanting to do stereo's not so good. Blow the regulator, replace the whole ECU. I am running a re-manufactured 120a alternator (90a factory on my 4.0L straight 6) and I am running a single 10 on a RF - Prime 1200-D and Components up front, coaxials in the rear doors off a 4 channel U.S. Acoustics amp. I don't have any dips in voltage unless my ground loosens up now on my battery. I have the Big 4 in 1/0 cables and 1/0 running to the back with 1/0 grounds.

I did some trial and error with alternators and even bypassed the voltage regulator in the ECU with a kit I got online so I could use my own adjustable voltage regulator.... All of it was a pain in the ass. Best bet with the Alternator route, in my opinion, is grab a factory one from a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited (136a) and swap the 7 groove pulley with the 6 groove if you have the straight 6. Or if you want the easiest way to handle it... run a second battery in the back.


2008 Pontiac G6 GT Coupe - Full Active Build Coming Soon (Technically in progress?)

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - Rolling Cluster F**K - But Sounds Good

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9 hours ago, ThxOne said:

Between certain years, Chrysler was nice enough to put the alternators voltage regulator in the vehicles computer. This made things for those of us wanting to do stereo's not so good. Blow the regulator, replace the whole ECU. I am running a re-manufactured 120a alternator (90a factory on my 4.0L straight 6) and I am running a single 10 on a RF - Prime 1200-D and Components up front, coaxials in the rear doors off a 4 channel U.S. Acoustics amp. I don't have any dips in voltage unless my ground loosens up now on my battery. I have the Big 4 in 1/0 cables and 1/0 running to the back with 1/0 grounds.

I did some trial and error with alternators and even bypassed the voltage regulator in the ECU with a kit I got online so I could use my own adjustable voltage regulator.... All of it was a pain in the ass. Best bet with the Alternator route, in my opinion, is grab a factory one from a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited (136a) and swap the 7 groove pulley with the 6 groove if you have the straight 6. Or if you want the easiest way to handle it... run a second battery in the back.

you can get an 160 amp from a 2001-2003 Dodge Durango/Ram 5.9L  you have to grind on your alt. bracket for it to fit. this is what I run got mine at a pick n pull off a 2002 durango


94 Jeep Cherokee XJ

1 funky pup 10" free air

1 100 watt Jensen amp

204 db in kick  outlaw

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25 minutes ago, tat2Jerry said:

you can get an 160 amp from a 2001-2003 Dodge Durango/Ram 5.9L  you have to grind on your alt. bracket for it to fit. this is what I run got mine at a pick n pull off a 2002 durango

How much grinding?


2008 Pontiac G6 GT Coupe - Full Active Build Coming Soon (Technically in progress?)

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - Rolling Cluster F**K - But Sounds Good

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6 minutes ago, ThxOne said:

How much grinding?

not a lot, take alt. bracket off put alt in with 1 bolt and you can see how much, and where. then just grind til the other bolt goes in. took me about 10 minutes with a grinder and flapper disc.


94 Jeep Cherokee XJ

1 funky pup 10" free air

1 100 watt Jensen amp

204 db in kick  outlaw

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On 12/29/2018 at 1:24 PM, ThxOne said:

Between certain years, Chrysler was nice enough to put the alternators voltage regulator in the vehicles computer. This made things for those of us wanting to do stereo's not so good. Blow the regulator, replace the whole ECU. I am running a re-manufactured 120a alternator (90a factory on my 4.0L straight 6) and I am running a single 10 on a RF - Prime 1200-D and Components up front, coaxials in the rear doors off a 4 channel U.S. Acoustics amp. I don't have any dips in voltage unless my ground loosens up now on my battery. I have the Big 4 in 1/0 cables and 1/0 running to the back with 1/0 grounds.

I did some trial and error with alternators and even bypassed the voltage regulator in the ECU with a kit I got online so I could use my own adjustable voltage regulator.... All of it was a pain in the ass. Best bet with the Alternator route, in my opinion, is grab a factory one from a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited (136a) and swap the 7 groove pulley with the 6 groove if you have the straight 6. Or if you want the easiest way to handle it... run a second battery in the back.

I’m thinking of the second battery till the summer and I’m able to go to a pull it yard and get the 160 alt. Bad thing is I got a brand new duralast gold battery a couple months ago, can just add any agm in the trunk and be ok with the acid one for startups?


01 Jeep Cherokee XJ Limited

JVC KD-X360BTS

2-DB652 coax @4ohm - RF Punch 800.4

2- 12 RFD2212 HX2 @4ohm - RF T1500-bdcp, Ported box design by Shredder2

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On 12/9/2018 at 7:58 AM, shredder2 said:

of course... it always seems that eventually we're always looking for more or just something different once it's all in there but that's car audio and one of the pitfalls of being bitten by this bug.

^^^ this statement couldn’t be more true. I’m currently trying to talk myself out of spending another 400.00 on new components to swap out the the ones I just bought a month ago. Achieving the quality and sound you want is a unicorn. I’m pretty sure I’ll be chasing it for life. 

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