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SQ Vs SLP Real life applications

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Gotyoulooking

Gotyoulooking

CarAudio.com Recruit
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As I sit here and wonder what speakers and sub combination will giver me what I want, the more I read and educate my self and get even more confused!. I've found my self looking for answers to questions only the person writing can understand. Common example that I've seen here often are, what coaxial speaker are the loudest, or what sub's will give me the more bass. One thing I have managed to notice is, everyone seem to talk about the two separate systems separately. No one ever gets an answer for a balanced system. Its always either amp with XXX sub's or amp and XXX components. Why you must create this topic?, Well as I sit here looking for answers in the search bar I cant find anything to suit my needs, and my 1st attempt at it did not gather enough attention for anyone to chime in and give their opinion. So this is my second attempt.

What speakers and what power do I need to have a good and Loud sound system that sounds good even at a distance from the car/truck?

Click to read more...
 
Loud and sounds good is very subjective and by most measures you can get there a lot of different ways.   Apart from extreme applications or total junk tier there's not that much real difference in equipment and so long as you stay out of the junk draw when shopping more is dependent on install than just buying the right name as far as your end results.

 
Subwoofer power range 500-1500 watts and front stage power range 50-125 watts per channel for a 2 channel active front stage. No rear speakers, just front and a single ported 10 or twelve would be just right for most people. This forum tends to attract more of the SPL crowd so you will see a bias towards more power than this. Check out DIYmobileAudio for more SQ oriented opinions.  A sound quality oriented two way active with 100 wpc front stage and 1000 watt RMS ported 12 can get so loud in a car that it can cause permanent hearing loss just so you know. To get sound quality loud, SQL, (sounds good and gets super loud) you need a DSP, good qaulity low distortion seperate mid woofer and tweeter, and a very well built and designed subwoofer box with a high qaulity low distortion subwoofer. A guy named shredder is good at this so do a search for his posts. You will need some tuning tools or an expert to do it for you with a microphone and RTA to separately EQ each driver to the listening position and time align them too. All of this can easily be done with a budget of less than $1000.  The information is all in the history of this forum; you just have to search for it and be willing to do some reading. 

 
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hispls said:
Loud and sounds good is very subjective and by most measures you can get there a lot of different ways. so long as you stay out of the junk draw when shopping more is dependent on install than just buying the right name as far as your end results.
Click to expand...
I agree 100% with this ^^^^... I feel that sometimes subjective is either misunderstood or just overlooked and that is what it is really all about in the end. It's what the end-user likes and is happy with, not trying to appease the masses or some Sq judge and his guidelines. Buy decent equipment that works together well, get the install completed well, adjust to taste and enjoy... of course... it always seems that eventually we're always looking for more or just something different once it's all in there but that's car audio and one of the pitfalls of being bitten by this bug.

Set some goals and most likely you'll attain them or close... but be realistic... even just stating "Sql" could be interpreted probably 20 ways at least. 

 
Also vehicle dependent as well as for choosing the proper speakers/subs ect.,for those locations and spending time doing some prep work and deadening and speaker direction mounting/locations, good clean performing amplifiers, proper electrical to maintain the needs for supply.just throwing speakers in any vehicle doesnt get you the performance most seek.Installation, and planning out for what you are wanting and trying to meet saves time and headaches along with some research.There are also car audio shows that you can attend and seek realistic information as well as experience to gain knowledge and speak with installers and vendors about products installed and of what has been chosen.Some car audio shops may even let you in the installation bays to experience some of the speakers , subs and different types of sound systems in reality rather than a demo board

 
I guess my thought was that while searching for answers, I’ve never really see people looking for components or coax speakers that reach high audio levels. Mostly are just concerned about the spl of the subs, since this is what’s used for competition. Just can’t see my self with a system where the bass would over power the voice and mids for a daily driver. 

 
In your case, if you're referring to the Hx2 12's that you might be trying to find a good balanced front stage for... I'd think a good set of 6.5" components in well treated doors on 100x2 or so would do the trick easily. Install and setting the filters and levels correctly makes a huge difference when talking about frontstage and how it all blends together in my experience.

Once it's all in there just adjust to your musical tastes and enjoy.

Now if you're trying to hear it from a distance from the vehicle like you stated above, that's just going to be all about adding power and maybe even drivers IMO... but what I said above still applies I think.

Overthinking this stuff is easy. 

 
IMO, if you have a properly deadened ride and solid install, look for drivers with a higher sensitivity/spl. and/or 2 ohm, such as Focal, Image Dynamics, PRV, or some pro audio offerings. Just don’t look to cross too low to your subs, and make sure your subs play up to your mids, and you have a good shot at finding what you are looking for.

 
Gotyoulooking said:
I guess my thought was that while searching for answers, I’ve never really see people looking for components or coax speakers that reach high audio levels. Mostly are just concerned about the spl of the subs, since this is what’s used for competition. Just can’t see my self with a system where the bass would over power the voice and mids for a daily driver. 
Click to expand...
Again, stay out of the junk drawer when shopping and there's not really that much difference in brands.  If you need the fronts louder add more drivers and/or more power. 

 
Jcsaudio said:
Subwoofer power range 500-1500 watts and front stage power range 50-125 watts per channel for a 2 channel active front stage. No rear speakers, just front and a single ported 10 or twelve would be just right for most people. This forum tends to attract more of the SPL crowd so you will see a bias towards more power than this. Check out DIYmobileAudio for more SQ oriented opinions.  A sound quality oriented two way active with 100 wpc front stage and 1000 watt RMS ported 12 can get so loud in a car that it can cause permanent hearing loss just so you know. To get sound quality loud, SQL, (sounds good and gets super loud) you need a DSP, good qaulity low distortion seperate mid woofer and tweeter, and a very well built and designed subwoofer box with a high qaulity low distortion subwoofer. A guy named shredder is good at this so do a search for his posts. You will need some tuning tools or an expert to do it for you with a microphone and RTA to separately EQ each driver to the listening position and time align them too. All of this can easily be done with a budget of less than $1000.  The information is all in the history of this forum; you just have to search for it and be willing to do some reading. 
Click to expand...
Not sure about the budget aspect for a complete system for around 1k dollars, maybe I’m out of touch but a set of custom a-pillar pods can cost that much alone. I will agree with most else in this statement. 

DIYMA is more of a no holds barred circle jerk of knowledge and exotic equipment than the what’s the cheapest loudest setup you see so much of here.  Lots of great stuff to learn at both places and will mostly apply to a budget build as the case may be. 

To the op, Install will make or break any system, so don’t skimp on that. @keep_hope_alive has some really awesome install information, I suggest reading his logs for ideas. 

Hispls is right about more power. I have 1620 watts available for my front stage. Will I ever use it?  Hell no, since I don’t listen to test tones, but it’s nice to have as much as I want. 

 
shredder2 said:
In your case, if you're referring to the Hx2 12's that you might be trying to find a good balanced front stage for... I'd think a good set of 6.5" components in well treated doors on 100x2 or so would do the trick easily. Install and setting the filters and levels correctly makes a huge difference when talking about frontstage and how it all blends together in my experience.

Once it's all in there just adjust to your musical tastes and enjoy.

Now if you're trying to hear it from a distance from the vehicle like you stated above, that's just going to be all about adding power and maybe even drivers IMO... but what I said above still applies I think.

Overthinking this stuff is easy. 
Click to expand...
Well winter is in full effect here and there’s no way sounddeadning the vehicle outside it’s gonna work. So for now I’ll stick to making the best I can till it’s warm, then it will be getting a good treatment. Guess I’m just gonna look for some 2ohm speakers to make the most out the amp I have connected them to. Just waiting on some hardware for the box build and can’t wait to put that in and fill the bass void I have going on right now. Also I think the position on the door speakers themselves it’s whats holding the sound back, since they are tucked all the way under and fowards. Thanks guys. 

 
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I agree with you Smaple if you start talking custom speaker pods and trim. I just added up what my truck system costs me in my signature and if it were to be purchased with new equipment except for the subwoofer (refurbished) and I came up with about $1400. I guess if you buy used equipment that it can be done for less. It’s my two JL DSP’s that drove up the price, but those things are the key to good SQ in my opinion. Use a Dayton 408 DSP in its place and the budget would be $1150. 

 
Gotyoulooking said:
As I sit here and wonder what speakers and sub combination will giver me what I want, the more I read and educate my self and get even more confused!. I've found my self looking for answers to questions only the person writing can understand. Common example that I've seen here often are, what coaxial speaker are the loudest, or what sub's will give me the more bass. One thing I have managed to notice is, everyone seem to talk about the two separate systems separately. No one ever gets an answer for a balanced system. Its always either amp with XXX sub's or amp and XXX components. Why you must create this topic?, Well as I sit here looking for answers in the search bar I cant find anything to suit my needs, and my 1st attempt at it did not gather enough attention for anyone to chime in and give their opinion. So this is my second attempt.

What speakers and what power do I need to have a good and Loud sound system that sounds good even at a distance from the car/truck?
Click to expand...
because after 130db its not sound quality anymore, your details and nuances in sound, sound stage and precise instrument seperation is ghetto blasted by bass or overdriven to the point of midrange and tweeter distortion, no i'm not talking about static i'm talking about speaker break up which causes certain frequencies to be a bit peaky and its not tamable by EQ.

Actual SQ is different from what you are talking about which is just loud and relatively clean sounding which is easily achievable with some high sensitivity soft domes, titanium dome tweeters and Pro Audio Mids with an active network capable head unit and sh*t tons of 4 channel power.  For starters, crescendo un series or PRV neodymiums with massive CT2 tweeters or some alphard deaf bounce super tweeters with a pioneer gm 8604 bridged to the mids and a 100-150 rms x 2 for the tweeters should literally get you into the 150 db range loud and clear.

 
The “at a distance” part is the deciding factor here. Before I started building my system, I saw a video of a guy using Hertz drivers, and walking away from his car while filming the video. Sounded pretty clean even like 75 yards away. My system sounds pretty awesome sitting in my car, but you can’t hear **** outside it. I remembered in the video, the guy had all his components in the doors. My mids and tweets are in my pillars, so the only thing you hear outside my car is basically my door speakers, which run 73 Hz to 350 Hz. Think about how you are going to use your system most when deciding how you are going to do your install!

 
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Gotyoulooking

Gotyoulooking

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