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RAM Install questions....

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Medictrode

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Hello all,,

I am planning an install in my 2017 RAM 2500 Crew Cab and need some help. It currently has the 8.4 NAV uConnect unit, and the non premium stereo. It Has 3.5 inch-ish mid range speakers in the dash, and 5x7 speakers in all 4 doors. 

I purchased the Ported Fox Acoustics subwoofer box with 2 -12 Inch subwoofers(TBD on the brand), and the AudioControl D-4.800 for the DSP, Fronts and rears. TBD on which subwoofer amp I will be running. Fronts will be MB Quart 6.5 inch Components with the tweeters in the sails. Rears will be some sort of coaxial speaker.

The plan is to keep the 8.4 and connect the high output into the Audio control and process it so it's a usable signal for both Amps. 

With that said is there anything I need to know to get this all to work correctly? Does the 8.4 need a load applied in order for it to work properly? And are the outputs from it full range, or will I have to do some summing of signals in the DSP?   Any other tips would be appreciated, thank you for the help..

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I heard that too which is why I am going with the good DSP so it will tune back in what I need. Hopefully it all comes together ok and sounds good. 

 
In case anyone was wondering..(Likely not, but it's nice to have a followup in case anyone else has the same questions)...

I got the install done on my 2017 RAM 2500. I got the Fox box ported dual 12 Box and used to Kicker Comp R's..For fronts I used my Mbquart Separates and coaxials for the back. I plan on getting Focals or Morels soon, but spent enough on the rest so I re used these from my last truck. All 4 doors were given sound deadening, and those foam speaker rings as well. 

For Amps I went with the Audio control D-4.800 which takes care the the DSP and the fronts/rears. I ran 12Ga wire which was a bit overkill, but I had a 500 foot roll, and that fast wire stuff from the head to the amp for input. The sub Amp is the Rockford P500X, which is turned on and signal fed from the Audio control amplifier.  Power wire was ran under the truck and came up behind the rear seat. I used 1 Gauge which split into 2-4 Gauge wires. Both amps were mounted to a piece of PVC board on the back wall. I used threaded inserts on the back wall, and screwed the panel in with 1/4-20 hex head bolts. The back wall also was given a few sheets of sound deadening. 

As far as integrating into my factory radio, it was super simple. Some sites suggested I would need a 47 Ohm load in order for the OEM Harmon 8.4  head unit to continuously feed signal to the D-4 amp, but that wasn't the case. The DSP was much needed however due to the restrictive signals the OEM radio gives, especially when it comes to the bass roll off which the DSP will replace. Also, the D-4 Has the "GTO" feature which will turn itself on, as well as another amplifier when it is given any sort of signal. It works excellent and acts like any amp turn on would. 

Overall the system sounds amazing, and sitting in the drivers seat and tuning via laptop is pretty friggen awesome, and it has so many features. Also, that Fox Box absolutely slams, and I didn't expect it to be that loud for have 1.55 cu ft ported chambers. It's also built super solid. It was tricky to get it lined up and fit in just right, but overall it's an amazing box.. 

I hope this helps anyone else in the future..

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks, yeah it's pretty awesome...

Just a final update.. I pulled the front speakers out, did more door sound deadening treatments and put the Morel Virtus 603 component set in with the midranges are mounted in the dash. All I can say is WOW!!! Between the clarity of these speakers( also having more midrange now), and setting up the DSP properly with the time/distance function it sounds like a concert hall. Those Morels are definitely recommended and are not as bright/harsh as the Mbquarts were. The midrange speakers are unique in design as well.   

 
Medictrode said:
Thanks, yeah it's pretty awesome...

Just a final update.. I pulled the front speakers out, did more door sound deadening treatments and put the Morel Virtus 603 component set in with the midranges are mounted in the dash. All I can say is WOW!!! Between the clarity of these speakers( also having more midrange now), and setting up the DSP properly with the time/distance function it sounds like a concert hall. Those Morels are definitely recommended and are not as bright/harsh as the Mbquarts were. The midrange speakers are unique in design as well.   
Click to expand...
Did you notice any improvement doing more deadening in your doors? I have a Ram also but single layer deadened doors. Also running the foxbox which sounds good with 2 Sundown 10’s. Wonder if volume would allow for 12’s ....🤔

 
C-LocJiggleNuts said:
Did you notice any improvement doing more deadening in your doors? I have a Ram also but single layer deadened doors. Also running the foxbox which sounds good with 2 Sundown 10’s. Wonder if volume would allow for 12’s ....🤔
Click to expand...
Not enough air space.  It's really only about 1cf after port displacement 

 
Medictrode said:
In case anyone was wondering..(Likely not, but it's nice to have a followup in case anyone else has the same questions)...

I got the install done on my 2017 RAM 2500. I got the Fox box ported dual 12 Box and used to Kicker Comp R's..For fronts I used my Mbquart Separates and coaxials for the back. I plan on getting Focals or Morels soon, but spent enough on the rest so I re used these from my last truck. All 4 doors were given sound deadening, and those foam speaker rings as well. 

For Amps I went with the Audio control D-4.800 which takes care the the DSP and the fronts/rears. I ran 12Ga wire which was a bit overkill, but I had a 500 foot roll, and that fast wire stuff from the head to the amp for input. The sub Amp is the Rockford P500X, which is turned on and signal fed from the Audio control amplifier.  Power wire was ran under the truck and came up behind the rear seat. I used 1 Gauge which split into 2-4 Gauge wires. Both amps were mounted to a piece of PVC board on the back wall. I used threaded inserts on the back wall, and screwed the panel in with 1/4-20 hex head bolts. The back wall also was given a few sheets of sound deadening. 

As far as integrating into my factory radio, it was super simple. Some sites suggested I would need a 47 Ohm load in order for the OEM Harmon 8.4  head unit to continuously feed signal to the D-4 amp, but that wasn't the case. The DSP was much needed however due to the restrictive signals the OEM radio gives, especially when it comes to the bass roll off which the DSP will replace. Also, the D-4 Has the "GTO" feature which will turn itself on, as well as another amplifier when it is given any sort of signal. It works excellent and acts like any amp turn on would. 

Overall the system sounds amazing, and sitting in the drivers seat and tuning via laptop is pretty friggen awesome, and it has so many features. Also, that Fox Box absolutely slams, and I didn't expect it to be that loud for have 1.55 cu ft ported chambers. It's also built super solid. It was tricky to get it lined up and fit in just right, but overall it's an amazing box.. 

I hope this helps anyone else in the future..
Click to expand...
I'm trying to cash in on what I hope is your good nature here....

Hopping on your thread here trying to learn something. I'm a dinosaur that hasn't installed a stereo in anything in several years, so all this new tech is blowing my mind. 

My truck is similar to yours, but not identical. 2015 Ram 1500 crew cab. I also purchased the vented fox box. I'm planning to stuff a couple Skar ZVX8s in there that I have in the garage, power them with a Crescendo BC3500D because I've got that in the garage too. I have the 8.4 uconnect with Nav too, but mine is the Alpine, so I'm not sure what change that really makes. 

I'm trying to figure out what I need to actually connect my amp to my head unit. I see you purchased the Audio Control amp with the DSP built in. Pricey unit and I wasn't sure about amping the speakers for some time, but I'm wondering if going that route is better than buying a PAC AmpPro and then a separate DSP. Or did you still need an adapter before the Audio Control? I'm on overload here in acronym hell and I'm not sure what I actually need, other than more money so I could afford to pay someone else for this to be their problem and mine to enjoy as a finished product. 

Did you lose any functions of the factory head unit with your install? Or does everything still work?

 
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