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Will my 0/1 gauge CCA sufficient for my system?

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Mcdaddy7777

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Ok I'm a car audio noob, and I feel I overlooked one simple thing. My wiring. 

Here is what I am trying to run. I have a 4 channel amp that is around 300 watts RMS. 

Sound Ordnance M75-4 75W x 4 Car..

I also have a 600 watt RMS amp.

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

I'll be using a little distribution block that will split the 0/1 gauge to 4 gauge and 8 gauge for each amp. 

From what I have read, 4 gauge wire should be sufficient for my application provided the run isn't super long. Now I'm assuming that's for OFC wire not CCA wire.

Now the question is why did I buy 0/1 cca? Well, I didn't think wire type mattered at the time. Also, I was thinking of wiring two 12" subs, but now I changed my mind and amp just doing one. Also, I already have the 0/1 run through the firewall. I would prefer to not have it ripped out. 

So the million dollar question. Will my 0/1 be sufficient for both of my amps? My thinking is that the extra thickness will overcompensate for lack of conductivity of CCA. 

For my last question, I also have 4 gauge and 8 gauge CCA for each amp. I was thinking I'll probably need to replace those with OFC as however, would I be able to get away with it if I keep them super short after the distribution block? I'm more fine with replacing those since I could just buy the 4 and 8 gauge OFC that I need by the foot. 

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You should be fine with the supply wire you have for the amps you are wanting to run so you dont have to rip it back out and replace it.OFC is better wiring compared to CCA,but CCA will work just fine.Short runs of OFC to the amps from a fused distro block is fine as well.Be sure to fuse at the battery for the supply wiring accordingly as well. Use the same size ground as your supply and ground to the frame of the vehicle is best.You can run a solid distro block for easy connections for grounding amps.Id recommend you do the Big 3, if you havent done so already.I recommend on any vehicle for any after market system.You should be able to pull up a You Tube Vid to watch on how easily to do that,its worth the extra $40-60 bucks.Be sure to check your battery connections ect approx.every 3-6 months for corrosion. You may want to give yourself an extra 6-8" oneach connection so you can refresh them over time to clean wiring for a fresh connection.But you should be fine with what you are running.

 
Dont cheap out on your fuse block or distro blocks. I recommend XS-Scorpian(Made by Stinger) or Stinger,or a reputable brand not an off brand.Ive never had issues with XS, or Stinger, Always served very well,never melted down on me or burned and created issues.T-Spec is decent as well. Im sure others will chime in to recommend as well.But I always say..Run what you have and utilize the best of what you have,and run it!

 
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Although this might be more than what I need, this makes the most sense: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42097_Stinger-SHD821.html

I'm thinking maybe 40 amp fuse for the 4 channel amp and 60 amp fuse for the monoblock? Also, I'm thinking of using a 100amp ANL fuse for next to the battery. I might replace the fuse holder I have there, but I'll worry about that later. 

If I want to be able to ground my amps from the distro block, wouldn't I need two ground inputs (4 and 8 gauge from the amps) and then one 0/1 gauge output to the chassis(which I could use my 0 gauge CCA wire I already have)? Forgive me, I could have this completely wrong.

 
Decent 1/0 CCA should be good for 200A or more.

Your amps' max current draw is 110A.

You're more than covered.

RF recommends 8 awg and 50A power for the sub amp.

8 and 60A for the 4 ch.

Those push the limit for cheap 8 awg cca, but honestly I'd probably use what I had and not think twice.

Use 4 awg if you have it.  If you have to choose, apparently the SO needs more current than the RF (maybe not if the SO is running full range speakers).

 
I got the system installed. The sub sounds really good! The only problem is that I do hear a very faint hissing noise with the speakers which are connect to the sound ordnance amp.

Also, the sound in the speaker are very bright. The guy that installed the system told me to maybe turn the LOC a little to see if that alleviates the issue. I have this LOC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have been told that it's a good LOC and it was one of the LOC's that sonic electronics recommended. 

For my speakers, I have infinity components 90 watts for two channels and focal's that are 60 watts for the other two channels. The infinities are at 2 ohms and the focal's are at 4 ohms. I feel like I matched the power up appropriately.

For the hissing issue, I hope I didn't match my speakers with the amp improperly. FYI I did use 4 gauge OFC for the rockford and 8 gauge OFC for the sound ordnance. I know that @n2audio said that it might need 4 gauge (maybe for CCA), but of course that won't really fit that amp. Crutchfield does say that the SO takes 8 gauge.

Here's my theory on the hissing. The guy that installed my system ended out using CCA wire for the grounds for each amp. 4 and 8 gauge respectively. Maybe those are insufficient and the ground is poor?

As for the LOC, is there a way I can know how to set that? I heard that it has to do with matching the input watts of the amp (or maybe it's volts).

Also, I did get a good stinger fused distribution block and got two 60 amp MANL fuses for each amp.

 
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