need information about this old school sub DD99Za-D2 18"

patatewz

CarAudio.com Recruit
30
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Hi,

Sorry for my bad english im a french canadian.  I just got this sub and i cant find anything on internet about it.  Can you please help me to find the spec of it?  Its a good sub?  

Its a 18" woofer.  never used and i have the original box.  I dont know how old is it...

on the box:

Model series: DD99Za-D2 18" composite cone 18122 09030 carbon fiber dust cap low impedance digital designs ddaudio

Do you know witch amp i need and witch sub box i need to run this sub? thanks a lot for your help!

here some picture:

IMG_0383.jpg

IMG_0382.jpg

IMG_0381.jpg

IMG_0380.jpg

 
and here the box i want to try with it if its ok...  i find the plan on the digital design site, but i need to know the missing length for the port... if someone can help me to get the right lengh. thanks!

missing lenght for 6cu ft 36Hz 18inch.jpg

 
Can i use this little amp with this sub? or i need a bigger one?



  • Kenwood eXcelon XR-1S



    1500W Max Reference Fit Class D Monoblock Amplifier

  • Reference Fit Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
  • RMS Power Rating:

    4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.
  • 2 ohms: 700 watts x 1 chan.

[*]Max power output: 1600 watts

 
i find the plan on the digital design site, but i need to know the missing length for the port... if someone can help me to get the right lengh. thanks!
The port width is 5" so just make sure you have 5" between that little turning the corner piece and the back wall.

That said, I'd suggest a bigger box and higher tuning if you really want to get loud.

As far as power DD-Z is a top of the food chain SPL sub.  They're designed to take 10,000W bursts for 3 seconds but really the coil is only going to be good for 1200W continuous power since they go for low MMS in these types of designs.   Also with "super stiff" suspension this may not even be a great option for a daily driver, you may not see the gains this motor provides until you get into bigger power.   If you only plan to run a 750W rated low end amp you'd probably get as loud or louder with a 2.5" coil sub.  If you can't make the box larger than 6 cube net you're definitely selling yourself short with such little power.  6 cube on that kind of 18" sub is if you plan to run it on legit 5K amp but you'd need to be always mindful of heat.

On lower power you'll want to go with about 8-10 cube box or even just try to trade that out for a sub and amp combo that works better for you.   DD-Z with composite cone should fetch you 1000$ in trade value or thereabouts which is plenty enough to get a more daily oriented sub + solid 2K amp. 

Nice piece of equipment for sure.

 
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wow thanks for the information!  long story short, this sub was lost after someone die... and i find it at friend house and i got it for 500$ sealed in box.

so now if i one rune it on daily with this 6 ft3 box i need a 5k amp thats it? i want play music with it no competition or burst.

can you give me a model of amp i can use?

and if i need 5 inch at the end its 19 1/2 - 5 3/4 = 13 3/4 for the missing lenght. im correct?

thanks!

 
wow thanks for the information!  long story short, this sub was lost after someone die... and i find it at friend house and i got it for 500$ sealed in box.

so now if i one rune it on daily with this 6 ft3 box i need a 5k amp thats it? i want play music with it no competition or burst.

can you give me a model of amp i can use?

and if i need 5 inch at the end its 19 1/2 - 5 3/4 = 13 3/4 for the missing lenght. im correct?

thanks!
You definitely stole this for 500$.  

Really that sub will function with a small amp but just if you don't plan to go into big power you could do better elsewhere.    These subs are built (mechanically) to handle tremendous bursts of power and the coil could handle 1200W sine wave indefinitely/continuous.  Anything that makes a woofer really handle more power robs efficiency.   While it's a tremendously efficient woofer in it's intended power application, a wimpier sub designed to function on 1200W may well do better on a 1200W amp.  

Big box will most certainly compensate for some of that lost efficiency though possibly at the expense of some musicality.  Neodymium motor subs can be notoriously peaky and those which are designed to win SPL world finals (like DD-Z) are designed to be peaky.   Not saying they can't sound good, just it's really not built for daily/music on modest power. 

Sounds about right for the length, I'd draw it out on paper to double check and/or dry fit the port as you're assembling the box to confirm you have precisely 5" all the way down the port and around the corner.   Personally I would just leave that off entirely and add a small 45 degree angle or roundover the corner behind the port.  Higher tuning should really gain you a lot of output in critical 40-55hz range. 

FYI DD did not publish specs on their older lines and many were custom built to order (particularly on the Z).  People who use this sort of sub generally don't use TS parameters to design their boxes but basically build the box around their vehicle's acoustics and tweak from there.

I don't think you understand the can of worms you're opening trying to use that sub to it's full effect, and it sounds like something like the FU 750 or Sundown SA line on a legit 1200W amp would get you were you're trying to go with money left over if you sell/trade the Z.  If you don't plan on doing some electrical upgrades and running a solid 2000-2500W amp you're really doing that sub a disservice and selling yourself short.

Do you have room for a bigger box?  What's your budget?  Are you willing to add batteries and a high output alternator?  What's the loudest vehicle you've ever auditioned?

 
OK, im willing to try this setup with your help.

i can<T have a bigger box because i want keep my rear seat.  My car is a Nissan Leaf.  So no alternator. a Dc\Dc converter rated at 100 amp.  My battery is a yellow top.  My head unit the standard one with a bit ten d sound processor to hook up my amp.

So for now, i need to make the box.  And im willing to install a bigger amp and a other battery if you think its will help.  I cant install alternator because my car is electric... so we need to figure out to work with 100 amp from the ddc converter.

 Personally I would just leave that off entirely and add a small 45 degree angle or roundover the corner behind the port.  Higher tuning should really gain you a lot of output in critical 40-55hz range.  (im not sure to understand this... you tell me its better to remove the internal side of the port? just make the 5 inch hole in the front of the sub without the L shape in the box?) sorry for my english again... french guy :)

im waiting for your reply and i go to the wood shop to order my mdf cut.

56532814611__70065705-C580-4883-94FE-4DAE8DE93C7B.JPG

 
Also rounding over both ends of the port and all edges generally helps if you have a router with roundover bit handy.   If you're good with woodworking use that extra layer of baffle to flush mount the sub.  That generally gains a little and looks nice.

How far from USA are you?   NADBL.org does all the competitions in the northeast and there's a fairly active Canadian group that comes to some shows up in Maine/NH, NY. 

 
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patatewz

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