drunk-ordered some 6.5 components - how do I make the best out of them?

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kcducttaper

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I've had the Polk DB6502's in my wish list for a while now. After a couple glasses of wine, I saw they were on sale for $100 (I believe they come in pairs), so I ordered 2. My whip is a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer (short wheel-base version and non-bose). It has a 6.5" hole in each of the 4 doors and 2 in-dash mounts that I can stick tweeters in, so I just went with 6.5 components for this round. I've already installed a Pioneer AVH-X4800BS head unit and have an Alpine MRV-F300 amp on my Amazon wish list. I don't plan on adding a sub to the system because I value cargo room over subs. I'm sure this has been covered many times before, but what can I do to get "the best bass" out of my 6.5" door components? I don't know if I can be this picky without a designated sub, but I prefer smooth depth and SQ over brutal SPL. I don't need to rattle any license plates or anything, but as low as I can go without adding a sub is basically what I'm shooting for.

Also, it may be worth mentioning that my wishlisted amp is rated for 50w rms/channel@4ohms where my speakers are rated at 100w rms/channel@4ohms. Just goofing around with home audio stuff, I would think 50w rms would easily max out the excursion on more or less any 6.5" that's not a dedicated sub. Is that correct in the car audio world or should I up my amp to match?

Cheers!

 
Hey mate,

Thanks for brining up your dilemma

You are in the right way of reaching your goal. You have a decent head unit, and amp so now with speakers, all you have to do is"

  • buy sound deadening material
  • Open door panels, clean, apply alcohol then apply sound deadening to inner and outer door panels.
  • Get those new speakers installed and use the original stock foam from the stock speakers to go around the face of the speaker, they may cover the screw holes but I have noticed applying foam around the front face of the mid-woofer and followed by the plastic door panel provides good mid-bass performance and with your 50 x 4 rms amp you should get decent "thump" to your system  You may have to engage the high pass crossover and cross them say, 60Hz and play them.  If you want more volume, you may have to increase the cross over frequency to 70hz and see if your speakers can handle the power.
  • Since you have new speakers that will need say 1-2 weeks to break in, start with 80Hz for a week and then reduce the cross over frequency.
Let us know how you go mate!.

$_57.jpg

 
I've had the Polk DB6502's in my wish list for a while now. After a couple glasses of wine, I saw they were on sale for $100 (I believe they come in pairs), so I ordered 2. My whip is a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer (short wheel-base version and non-bose). It has a 6.5" hole in each of the 4 doors and 2 in-dash mounts that I can stick tweeters in, so I just went with 6.5 components for this round. I've already installed a Pioneer AVH-X4800BS head unit and have an Alpine MRV-F300 amp on my Amazon wish list. I don't plan on adding a sub to the system because I value cargo room over subs. I'm sure this has been covered many times before, but what can I do to get "the best bass" out of my 6.5" door components? I don't know if I can be this picky without a designated sub, but I prefer smooth depth and SQ over brutal SPL. I don't need to rattle any license plates or anything, but as low as I can go without adding a sub is basically what I'm shooting for.

Also, it may be worth mentioning that my wishlisted amp is rated for 50w rms/channel@4ohms where my speakers are rated at 100w rms/channel@4ohms. Just goofing around with home audio stuff, I would think 50w rms would easily max out the excursion on more or less any 6.5" that's not a dedicated sub. Is that correct in the car audio world or should I up my amp to match?

Cheers!
at least you could have done worse while inebriated lol are you gonna deck power the comps until you get the 4 channel? youre not gonna over power those comps with that amp, but it should sounds pretty nice. Get some sound deadener for your door panels while youve got them apart for the speaker install anyways. Noico 80 mil is a great inexpensive one to at least consider. Youll see folks swear by other brands, but Noico is probably the best bang for your buck for that. Deaden the sheet metal behind the driver, the panel the driver is going into and some on the plastic panel itself. also put some on the metal between the speaker and where the driver is mounted. Run new wires into the doors as well

 
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kcducttaper

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