Amp/wiring questions

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olif

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First off, I don't know if this is in the right discussion but I'm trying to build a system and can't figure some stuff out.so i want to run 4, 8" midrange drivers in my door but I need tweeters and can't figure out an easy(ish) way to wire them. so I was going to run an active crossover and then to a 4 channel amp for the door woofers, but what would I do for my tweeters? do I need an amp, because I feel like that could make my ears bleed if I don't get it set right. sorry, first time building a system, I'm a pretty fast learner but just can't find any material on a setup like this.

 
I've done some more looking around and am thinking about running 2, 4 channel amps, it seems overkill but I'm trying to push 120w+ to each speaker while having control of the tweeters. could I get a more powerful 4 channel and run them in pairs? or wire each side down to 2 ohms 

 
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olif said:
First off, I don't know if this is in the right discussion but I'm trying to build a system and can't figure some stuff out.so i want to run 4, 8" midrange drivers in my door but I need tweeters and can't figure out an easy(ish) way to wire them. so I was going to run an active crossover and then to a 4 channel amp for the door woofers, but what would I do for my tweeters? do I need an amp, because I feel like that could make my ears bleed if I don't get it set right. sorry, first time building a system, I'm a pretty fast learner but just can't find any material on a setup like this.
What are you actually wanting to do?? You say 4-8" mids in doors.. meaning two 8s in each door with a total of 4 up front only or 4-8" mids in each door ? And how many tweeters in each door, and what Ohm load are the 8" mids? Tweeters 8 ohm, 4 ohm or 2 ohm ?

 
Sorry for confusion, I want to run 1 woofer and 1 tweeter in each door, so 4 woofers and 4 tweeters total. And they are 4ohm.

 
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without a dsp, youre not going to be able to go active for the mids/tweets if youre going to have a separately fade-able F/R/L/R/ setup
Whats a good setup then, because I just started looking around and and am not limited by size because I'm going to have fab a little with pretty much any speaker, wanted to run 8" mid ranges but need tweeters? I mean I could run the front off a 4 channel with a simple build-in crossover but if I just used coaxs in the back what's the best way to power them? Sorry for all the questions 😂

 
Whats a good setup then, because I just started looking around and and am not limited by size because I'm going to have fab a little with pretty much any speaker, wanted to run 8" mid ranges but need tweeters? I mean I could run the front off a 4 channel with a simple build-in crossover but if I just used coaxs in the back what's the best way to power them? Sorry for all the questions 😂
well, youre talking two completely different ends of the spectrums if you were considering active crossovers and 8"s in each door going to some coaxials. are you not planning on using a sub? i ask because an 8 is a tad on the big side for a normal mid

 
well, youre talking two completely different ends of the spectrums if you were considering active crossovers and 8"s in each door going to some coaxials. are you not planning on using a sub? i ask because an 8 is a tad on the big side for a normal mid
Not going to run a sub for a couple months because of budget restrictions, and I was going to run 6.5 mids but I'd have to do some nodding anyways because of my mounting depth, so I figured I'd run 8s to get a little more bass since I won't be running a sub for a little bit. I was going to run a active crossover but then realised if I'm not running a sub I should be able to just use the Amp, but I guess I'd have to run one when I get a sub? 

 
Not going to run a sub for a couple months because of budget restrictions, and I was going to run 6.5 mids but I'd have to do some nodding anyways because of my mounting depth, so I figured I'd run 8s to get a little more bass since I won't be running a sub for a little bit. I was going to run a active crossover but then realised if I'm not running a sub I should be able to just use the Amp, but I guess I'd have to run one when I get a sub? 
so, heres the thing about active crossovers. In the car audio world, its not at all terribly common to use them for front and rear speakers. Matter of fact, for imaging purposes, running just a front stage is ideal, and decks that have active crossovers are built with that purpose in mind. actively crossing over the frequencies is far better for power delivery, but requires more channels of amplification as each driver needs its own channel. You also mentioned 4 ohms for the 8" drivers, while that will work and keep your amps from heating up too much, itll also not get the most out of each channel provided your amps are capable of running at 2 ohms. Running 4 ohm speakers to each channel is just leaving power on the table for most amps. Regarding the lack of sub for the timebeing, with decent drivers and decent tuning, you should be getting a fair amount of mid-bass from some decent 6.5"s to keep you happy until you get your sub, provided youre not as impatient as i am :)

 
so, heres the thing about active crossovers. In the car audio world, its not at all terribly common to use them for front and rear speakers. Matter of fact, for imaging purposes, running just a front stage is ideal, and decks that have active crossovers are built with that purpose in mind. actively crossing over the frequencies is far better for power delivery, but requires more channels of amplification as each driver needs its own channel. You also mentioned 4 ohms for the 8" drivers, while that will work and keep your amps from heating up too much, itll also not get the most out of each channel provided your amps are capable of running at 2 ohms. Running 4 ohm speakers to each channel is just leaving power on the table for most amps. Regarding the lack of sub for the timebeing, with decent drivers and decent tuning, you should be getting a fair amount of mid-bass from some decent 6.5"s to keep you happy until you get your sub, provided youre not as impatient as i am :)
I know this is slowly turning into a wiring thread not a Amp one but how would you wire it with 2 speakers and 2 tweeters? Also I don't mind running just the front because I rarely carry more than 1 person in the vehicle I'm doing the install in I was just concerned about imaging/Soundstage. 

 
I know this is slowly turning into a wiring thread not a Amp one but how would you wire it with 2 speakers and 2 tweeters? Also I don't mind running just the front because I rarely carry more than 1 person in the vehicle I'm doing the install in I was just concerned about imaging/Soundstage. 
get a deck with active network capabilities, 2 ohm drivers and a separate set of tweeters. now your budget will play a HUGE factor in driver selection. You can get some hybrid audio drivers and drop $400 on just the 6.5s and another 150 on the tweets, but thats up to you really. There are many mfg's nowadays that make some really decent drivers for $50 a set, like dayton audio. The alpine radial ring tweeters from the type-x line are cheap and rock your socks. Get a decent 4 channel amp, run 4 rcas to it fromo the deck, set it up with what is often referred to "network crossover" and adjust the frequencies for the drivers properly. From there, you will just need to attenuate the amps gain according to the voltage its seeing from the deck, eq adjust to taste and dampen the doors in line with how much time, money and desired effect you want. Tweeter placement can be tricky too. What kind of car is it?

 
get a deck with active network capabilities, 2 ohm drivers and a separate set of tweeters. now your budget will play a HUGE factor in driver selection. You can get some hybrid audio drivers and drop $400 on just the 6.5s and another 150 on the tweets, but thats up to you really. There are many mfg's nowadays that make some really decent drivers for $50 a set, like dayton audio. The alpine radial ring tweeters from the type-x line are cheap and rock your socks. Get a decent 4 channel amp, run 4 rcas to it fromo the deck, set it up with what is often referred to "network crossover" and adjust the frequencies for the drivers properly. From there, you will just need to attenuate the amps gain according to the voltage its seeing from the deck, eq adjust to taste and dampen the doors in line with how much time, money and desired effect you want. Tweeter placement can be tricky too. What kind of car is it?
1993 ford explorer, not really any place to mount on dash unfortunately 

 
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olif

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