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johnnyyukon

Is this Enclosure Decent for What I Just Bought?

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This stuff should be here Friday and the enclosure I'm looking at is at the bottom...

-One 12" Kicker CompR 2 ohm (https://www.kicker.com/comp-r-12-2-ohm-subwoofer

-Rockville RXD-M1 Phenom 2000 Watt/1000w RMS Mono Class D 1 Ohm Amp  (1 Ohm: 500 Watts x 1 Channel <1% THD+N )  https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rxd-m1/

And before everyone hates on the amp, here's a video from BigDWiz testing a beefier version of the same amp with passing grade:  

 

 

According to the Kicker site, this sub needs the following dimensions:

MIN VENTED BOX VOL/MAX (cu. ft.)
1.75, 2.25

And here's the Vented box I was looking at, after looking at MANY.  1.8 cu.ft.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1220V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

 

It's 80 bucks, and while I'm open to a custom one, perhaps around town (I haven't really called around) I'm thinking I probably won't find one for that price which IS my budget.  

what you fellers think?

 

Edited by johnnyyukon

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Sux that you are stuck with the Rockville site OP... 

That said... I've made a basic 12" Comp sub sound good on as little as 200 watts.

My best advice is DIY your own enclosure and try to make it configured for your vehicle and as efficient as possible (for your power level).

That S/O enclosure won't get even @BOOMINGRANDPA 's approval... no-one else here in my experience will tell ya' what you probably want to hear either. Almost all prefabs are junk, best to DIY your own.

Really be careful with your highs, try to set your levels correctly and dont clip em' to death trying to get louder... sub as well.

If you realize your equipment has limitations, you might be happy and it might last awhile...

In the long run you'll have some time to save a few bux for that day when you decide to upgrade.


JVC KD-X350BTS, Sundown Sa-15 33.5hz 3.8ft3 ported, Synergy 3K@ 2 ohm, RF 500s, Polk DB comps, Cache Preamp/EQ... or...

JVC KD-X350BTS, Kicker S10L72 1.75ft3 ported, Synergy 3K @ 1 ohm, RF 500s, Polk DB comps, Cache Preamp/EQ...

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2 hours ago, shredder2 said:

Sux that you are stuck with the Rockville site OP... 

That said... I've made a basic 12" Comp sub sound good on as little as 200 watts.

My best advice is DIY your own enclosure and try to make it configured for your vehicle and as efficient as possible (for your power level).

That S/O enclosure won't get even @BOOMINGRANDPA 's approval... no-one else here in my experience will tell ya' what you probably want to hear either. Almost all prefabs are junk, best to DIY your own.

Really be careful with your highs, try to set your levels correctly and dont clip em' to death trying to get louder... sub as well.

If you realize your equipment has limitations, you might be happy and it might last awhile...

In the long run you'll have some time to save a few bux for that day when you decide to upgrade.

 

Thanks, yeah, I've talked to Rockville on a number of occasions, and they're customer service SUCKS.  Miracle I could even get ahold of them as they're Jewish (NOTHING wrong with that) and seem to take EVERY SINGLE Jewish Holiday off, haha.

But yeah, I am confident in the sub I chose, the amp, we'll see.  

I hear you about the prefab enclosures, hell, if it wasn't for this forum I probably would have bought whatever Best Buy had laying around, but although I believe I could build it, I just think, having never done it, it would take a LONG time, and even then would probably be doubting myself.  Who knows, maybe I'll try this box and make an attempt to build one, and if successful, return it.  But man, I just want that bass ASAP, and my gut tells me it will probably be fine.  

We'll see, and I'll try to report back.

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You need to deduct sub displacement from the prefab box or measure it excluding the port and then calculate the port to see what its really tuned at. Then you need to make sure the cutout isn't too large (too small can be enlarged. Maybe this box is better? Its at least 3/4 MDF. 

http://www.brightstarcaraudio.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;path=275_251_256&amp;product_id=1270

 

Kicker should have 3 box designs in the manual just build the middle sized street bass box and see how you like it. 

Edited by 2RZ-FE

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Yeah you can build a box pretty cheap as long as you have the tools to do it. Clamps, table saw or circular hand saw, drill etc. The cost of MDF is pretty cheap. I can build a ported enclosure that size for under $40 + my time. Hell I usually have enough wood in my workshop to build things that pop into my head without even going to the hardware store.

 

I have one of those Kicker CompR 12" 2 ohm subwoofers. Bought it for my other car and never used it until recently i decided to put it in my Lexus only to discover it sucks. Mine came in a kicker vented enclosure and sitting in my trunk hooked up to a Fosgate R1200.1 (gain set by multimeter) and I was so disappointed. I pulled it out later that week and put my SS RL-p 15 in and won't look back.

 

My point is I don't place much faith in Kicker products these days.

Edited by lubetek

Signature out-dated. Still own most of the below equipment though.

Kenwood KDC-X889, Orion 8004, Directed 1500D, SoundSplinter RL-p 15" D2, CDT ES-620 and CDT UP224 upstage kit, BXT RAAMmat (TRUNK) Dynomat Extreme (DOORS & REAR DECK), Stinger 150 Amp Circuit Breaker, Stinger Fused Distribution block, Audiobahn 0 guage power and ground, Audiobahn 4 guage pwr/grnd (amps), 12 guage Rockford Fosgate speaker lines (sub), 15 guage Rockford Fosgate speaker lines (comps), Kicker Interconnects X3 and Optima Yellow Top.

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The kicker comp r subs are not the worst subs in my opinion the suspension feels tight the surround looks and feels sturdy and the cone seems to hold up to some pounding. But no matter what that amp puts out if you wire it correctly you should get enough for that sub though so no problem there. The bad part is that you will hear a difference in sound, specifically quality, if the enclosure is not made as close as possible to the manufacturers specs. Seeing as they have rated it to be a minimum of 1.75 and the box is 1.8 without a speaker I'd say you'll have a good amount of output from that box but without it being matched up better, air space wise, the quality will suffer.

Like someone said before me try to find a box that is within the middle of the requirements and try to find at least 3/4 inch mdf. No absolute necessity to make your own, man.

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18 hours ago, 2RZ-FE said:

You need to deduct sub displacement from the prefab box or measure it excluding the port and then calculate the port to see what its really tuned at. Then you need to make sure the cutout isn't too large (too small can be enlarged. Maybe this box is better? Its at least 3/4 MDF. 

http://www.brightstarcaraudio.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;path=275_251_256&amp;product_id=1270

 

Kicker should have 3 box designs in the manual just build the middle sized street bass box and see how you like it. 

This box actually doesn't look bad for the sub assuming its specs are correct. Comp r subs dont benefit from large amounts of port. They have limited excursion and weak motors. The box above has similar port area to the box you listed but internal volume is larger and port length is noticeably longer yet tuning difference is only 1hz. If i where to guess the crutchfield box has an in accurate description and is actually tuned much higher. Also forget building a box to factory spec. Most large brands kicker alpine etc. suggest slightly small boxes tuned high to make you think your subs are loud by giving a peak around 45 and sacrificing low end. You might not need to play down to 25hz with authority but low 30's should have solid output for most music.


bought from MBROOKY, johnny law.Lulz, subzero, tc3k101

sold to mytrunkslamz , vitveet, cd6551, martiandancer31 (x2), pro-rabbit, whytellyou

Trade with cf2004

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