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Joel114

Should I get a 5 ch or 4 ch and mono?

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Should I get a 5 channel amp or 4 channel and mono? Also what awg and fuse would you recommend? 0/1 gauge, 100 amp fuse for the 4 ch, and 120 amp fuse for the 5 ch? I Have not decided on the speakers yet but they will be two 6.5 around 100w rms, two 6x9 around 150w rms, and one or two 12" subs between 200w to 500w rms each. My car is a 2005 pontiac sunfire coup (pretty much a chevy cavalier).

Edited by Joel114

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one 12" at 500W you can prob get away with a 5 channel, anything above you'll need more power just for the subs.  it can be hard to find a 5-channel that can push 150 per channel plus 500 for a sub.  If your 6x9s require 150W then you may be better off with two separate amps to get the most out of the speakers.  Better to have more power than less when matching.

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Other than simplicity/convenience I'm not a fan of the 5 ch option.  Just the fact that I can't change amps without changing both sub and speaker would bother me.  Plus, finding a 5 ch with the right amount of power for any speaker/sub combo can be difficult, at times impossible.

1/0 main at 150A, full range amp 4 awg 60A, sub amp 4 awg 100A.

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'04 Chrysler Town & Country (it was cheap and I have a family)

  • HU: Stock - Scosche SLC-4
  • Comps: Lanzar Opti6c w/Opti400x4d
  • Rear fill: Stock
  • Sub: Lanzar Opti1232D 3cf 29hz w/Zed Opti1000.1d

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7 hours ago, Justin Garrett said:

one 12" at 500W you can prob get away with a 5 channel, anything above you'll need more power just for the subs.  it can be hard to find a 5-channel that can push 150 per channel plus 500 for a sub.  If your 6x9s require 150W then you may be better off with two separate amps to get the most out of the speakers.  Better to have more power than less when matching.

 

4 hours ago, n2audio said:

Other than simplicity/convenience I'm not a fan of the 5 ch option.  Just the fact that I can't change amps without changing both sub and speaker would bother me.  Plus, finding a 5 ch with the right amount of power for any speaker/sub combo can be difficult, at times impossible.

1/0 main at 150A, full range amp 4 awg 60A, sub amp 4 awg 100A.

The 5 channel amp I had linked at two ohms deliverers 4x 240w rms and 1x 1000w rms.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SGK6FL

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I'm no expert and I don't know anything at that company.  Just speaking from trying to find a 5 channel that would run my system.  I looked at more mainstream companies and no one seems to make the wattage I need.  I will say the numbers look too good to be true, but what do i know?

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2 minutes ago, Justin Garrett said:

I'm no expert and I don't know anything at that company.  Just speaking from trying to find a 5 channel that would run my system.  I looked at more mainstream companies and no one seems to make the wattage I need.  I will say the numbers look too good to be true, but what do i know?

They might be but on multiple sites have good reviews.

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2 hours ago, Justin Garrett said:

I'm no expert and I don't know anything at that company.  Just speaking from trying to find a 5 channel that would run my system.  I looked at more mainstream companies and no one seems to make the wattage I need.  I will say the numbers look too good to be true, but what do i know?

I found out their CEA ratting at 2 ohms is 4x 120w and 1x 500w

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3 hours ago, Joel114 said:

I found out their CEA ratting at 2 ohms is 4x 120w and 1x 500w

With certain brands you have to be careful about how they rate their amps. I would not trust Rockville's ratings... they're known to be overrated. CEA is only compliant under 4 ohm load. Everything else is BS and for marketing purposes only. If you look at any legit company that are actually honest about their ratings, they don't have a CEA rating. They don't need it. The amp dyno's and real world testing already speaks for itself. Some companies will go as far as underrate them to make them appear like you're getting way more power for your money but in reality it's in par with the other big boys. I am also not a fan of 5 channel for most applications. Too weak. 

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HU: Alpine INA-W910

Processor: Alpine PXA-H800

Amps: B2 Audio Zero.5R - Zapco Z-150.4LX - Zapco Z-150.2LX

Front Stage: New front stage TBA~, JL ZR800's

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6 hours ago, blazian87 said:

With certain brands you have to be careful about how they rate their amps. I would not trust Rockville's ratings... they're known to be overrated. CEA is only compliant under 4 ohm load. Everything else is BS and for marketing purposes only. If you look at any legit company that are actually honest about their ratings, they don't have a CEA rating. They don't need it. The amp dyno's and real world testing already speaks for itself. Some companies will go as far as underrate them to make them appear like you're getting way more power for your money but in reality it's in par with the other big boys. I am also not a fan of 5 channel for most applications. Too weak. 

very well put. i was gonna be far less diplomatic and say something like "aint no way that rockville puts out a 240x4 + 1000x1 5 channel" or something to that effect LoL


2002 Honda Accord sedan V6 (automatic slushbox)

2 Rockford p3 12s (dual 2 ohm)

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

2 PPI PC275's running 1 sub each atm, waiting to put the SQ 2200.1 back in and add the PhoenixGold Elite.4 once my electrical is up to snuff

Front stage:PRV Audio 6MB200 6.5 and Massive Audio CT2 tweeters

Rear speakers: stock

I just added 5 SoundQubed stickers, and despite having no equipment upgrades, it added 76 DB!!!

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Sux that you are stuck with the Rockville site OP... 

That said... I've made a basic 12" Comp sub sound good on as little as 200 watts.

My best advice is DIY your own enclosure and try to make it configured for your vehicle and as efficient as possible (for your power level).

That S/O enclosure won't get even @BOOMINGRANDPA 's approval... no-one else here in my experience will tell ya' what you probably want to hear either. Almost all prefabs are junk, best to DIY your own.

Really be careful with your highs, try to set your levels correctly and dont clip em' to death trying to get louder... sub as well.

If you realize your equipment has limitations, you might be happy and it might last awhile...

In the long run you'll have some time to save a few bux for that day when you decide to upgrade.

 


JVC KD-X350BTS, Sundown Sa-15 33.5hz 3.8ft3 ported, Synergy 3K@ 2 ohm, RF 500s, Polk DB comps, Cache Preamp/EQ... or...

JVC KD-X350BTS, Kicker S10L72 1.75ft3 ported, Synergy 3K @ 1 ohm, RF 500s, Polk DB comps, Cache Preamp/EQ...

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5 minutes ago, shredder2 said:

Sux that you are stuck with the Rockville site OP... 

That said... I've made a basic 12" Comp sub sound good on as little as 200 watts.

My best advice is DIY your own enclosure and try to make it configured for your vehicle and as efficient as possible (for your power level).

That S/O enclosure won't get even @BOOMINGRANDPA 's approval... no-one else here in my experience will tell ya' what you probably want to hear either. Almost all prefabs are junk, best to DIY your own.

Really be careful with your highs, try to set your levels correctly and dont clip em' to death trying to get louder... sub as well.

If you realize your equipment has limitations, you might be happy and it might last awhile...

In the long run you'll have some time to save a few bux for that day when you decide to upgrade.

 

Wrong thread... oops... sorry

I really feel stoopid now


JVC KD-X350BTS, Sundown Sa-15 33.5hz 3.8ft3 ported, Synergy 3K@ 2 ohm, RF 500s, Polk DB comps, Cache Preamp/EQ... or...

JVC KD-X350BTS, Kicker S10L72 1.75ft3 ported, Synergy 3K @ 1 ohm, RF 500s, Polk DB comps, Cache Preamp/EQ...

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