Hearing distortion at low levels 6.5"

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kcducttaper

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I just purchased a new-to-me 2008 Chevy Trailblazer. It's the short wheel base version and does not have the Bose option. When I purchased it, the previous owner had already installed some Kenwood 6.5" speakers in all 4 doors. After I purchased it, I found that the stock radio head unit was shot and acting up, so I purchased a Pioneer AVH-X4800BS to replace it. I discovered that the PO didn't even wire up the speakers correctly in terms of polarity, so I straightened the polarity out while I was at it. In short, there seems to be a huge hump in response at 100-200Hz, but anything below 100Hz just falls off a cliff. I've EQ-ed the hump down, so things sound pretty smooth now, but I just can't get any notable bass out of it without distortion setting in. I have the lows boosted ~6dB on the head unit, but it still sounds light on the low end and I can't turn it up past ~80dB without distortion. I've taken my flashlight and checked the cone movement and I don't believe it to be anywhere near xmax. It only looks to be moving about 0.5mm. I guess my question is: what the dilly??? The speakers are rated to 40Hz (not sure if I believe that though) and have a sensitivity of 90dB. If all the specs are correct, my 14 watt rms per channel head unit should give me much more thump than I'm getting once you take into account 4 drivers and cabin gain. Obviously, I'm not building a thump-thump machine, but I'm not joking when I say my '94 minivan had more bass presence and clarity with 4x 7-watt stock drivers. My F-250 with a JVC KD-R970BTS with JBL GX862's absolutely beats the snot out of this setup! Any thoughts on 1) why my bass falls off a cliff after 100Hz and 2) why distortion begins way sooner than it seemingly should?

 
I could spend more time on this but most of the time aftermarket speakers have weak bass because they aren't sealed to the door panel.  This lack of a seal is like asking a speaker to play bass without an enclosure.  The door panel is the speaker enclosure and that seal is VITAL for any bass response.

Look into the speaker grill with a flashlight.  If you see the woofer moving a lot but don't hear a lot of bass - you need to gasket it.  Luckily, that cost is only $4 because it is achieved with closed cell weatherstripping foam you can get at any hardware store.   Just be careful to not put any on the actual surround, but instead around it on the basket.  The thickness you need depends on the gap between the speaker and the door panel - verify/measure this.  And if you put the door panel on then take it off again you should see an indent in the foam - proving you made a tight seal.  

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Are holes sealed up on the inner door skin? Sometimes people will remove the plastic sheeting while working on the window and don’t put it back. I covered mine using banana box cardboard which is stiff and a layer of roadkill mat. Any back wave leaking to the front will kill the sound. Sealing speaker to rear of door panel will channel the sound to the cabin instead of it leaking between the door and door panel. 

 
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kcducttaper

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