i got a new amp...new for me at least

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v_09

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so first of all im new here and a noob so im sorry for my ignorance and thank you all in advance for helping me. So some let me have a  Hifonics H35 3000.1D  and a precision power dcx 300.4 and i was wondering if the hifonics were compatible with my two kicker L7's they 04S12L7 model at 40hm and if so how should i wire them? Also i have an 8 gauge wire runnung to the amp at the moment shoould i upgrade to bigger gauge? Lastly should i do the big 3 upgrade as well? All of this is running in a stock chevy colorado with a optima yelloetop. Thank you all for your time its much appreciated/

 
I recommend the Big 3 on every vehicle to be honest with any after market installed amp. With that much power you will need to get it done /I recommend it.the supply wiring you have isnt going to be large enough to supply both amps draw needs. You may need look at 0ga supply for better results and needs to maintain proper voltage.Specs state/recommend for that the H35 alone of a 200 amp fuse, and that PPI I had one in the past and I believe without doing research atm i used a 60, but i think it needs a 50 by specs?Nice older A/B amp. pretty large but pretty decent amp imo.Subs need some room/ fairly decent sized box.. min of 2.0 cu. ft. ported/tuned  @ approx 32-35 htz per sub.Hopefully you have an X-cab or doing a blow through.But,here is how to wire the subs to that amp to get the most out of what you have to supply them. Will that amp work? yes..Will it be enough to supply them at RMS rating? prob. not.I always say..Run what you have. Wiring diagram for subs DVC 4 Ohm for a pair

https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp?Q=2&I=42

Pin this site. Alot of useful information on there, even enclosures, wiring ect.

 
Thank you for the quick reply. i have the 4 door colorado variant. Would you say all 0 gauge wire is equal or should i pay more for better quality? And you are right the ppi called for 50amp fuse in the maual i found online. now this is the first time ive owned an amp with no onboard fuse let alone 2 and the manual stated that i run i fuse on the cable coming from the battery with all the combined amperage of every amp. so this basically means the fuse i connect next to the battery will suffice as long as i put a 250amp fuse in it or do i need to add a seperate fuse? You say the h35 isnt enough to run these 2 L7's which i find crazy since the car they came out of had 2 15 L7's lol, not saying your wrong just saying that its fuuny that they were underpowring those 2 15's lol. finnaly this is the box that came with the speakers and im assuming its okay, right? Thank you so much for your help and the reading material. Thanks so Much for the welcome Btw =))))

20181009_153543.jpg

 
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Not all 0 ga wire is the same.You want OFC Not CCA .High count in thread is important as well.there have been debates on which brand is BEST ect. reliable also.Sky-High makes good wire,Audio Technix has worked for me just fine.You are going want to use 0ga supply wiring.from battery to an ANL fuse of a min of 250 anl fuse then wiring to a 0ga FUSED distro block with a min of (one 0-4 ga in and tw 0-4 ga out) I recommend a dual ANL or Mini ANL fused block at the amps. You will need 1-200amp fuse for hifonics amp/H35, and 1-50  amp fuse for the PPI.I highly recommend you do the Big3 in 0 ga as well. You may need a second battery depending on your voltage drop.More than likely you may need the extra battery.Shaker boxes are not that bad but will work. Seems too small for a pair of those 12s sealed. You will get better response going ported for them from my experience with L7s(10s,12s, 15s) ive ran over the years and still have installed.Subs up port up do much better in my truck, and that is the way ive last had them installed.(working on a new wall now).Hifonics has gone down hill for me as i am a collector of Hifonics amps/Zed made grade VII,VIII series were some best made in my opinion. newer versions majority have been tested to not do rated of which you may want to do some reading and research for yourself depending on the model.Those subs will serve better in a built ported and well tuned enclosure rather than a store bought enclosure. But what you have will work, but dont expect tohit some serious lows or to sound amazing.

 
Thank you very much for all of your help my guy. im trying to keep the budget on a low since all i paid for was the subs and box which was 60 dollars everything else was donated including speakers, amps, rca's, wires, headunit and equalizer lol but i will keep the ported box in mind if i want to upgrade the sounds. difinitely doing the big three upgrade and thank you for the wire gauge help but last question hopefully lol sorry, is it ok to run the ground wire to the battery or should i just connect to chassis. ive been trying to research it but there seems to be a fifty fifty where some say its ok and others say its real bad. thanks again.

 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-ft-OFC-1-0-Gauge-Oversized-BLUE-Power-Ground-Wire-Sky-High-Car-Audio/292713335209?hash=item44271309a9:g:rp8AAOSw-jhUE5l6

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Flex-1-0-Gauge-Blue-OFC-Power-Ground-Battery-Wire-Copper/380637457675?epid=2254486767&hash=item589fc2ad0b:g:S0wAAOSwxehXPdQd:sc:USPSPriority!75189!US!-1

Under hood at the main battery what i use

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SPD5204-1-0-GAUGE-AWG-NICKEL-INLINE-ANL-WAFER-FUSE-HOLDER-0G-POWER-WIRE/390710975906?hash=item5af8305da2:g:93kAAOxypNtSlDJv:sc:USPSFirstClass!75189!US!-1

Under hood Fuse. I generally use stinger or these. these work fine

https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Install-Bay-ANL250-High-Quality-Nickel-Plated-250-Amp-250A-Fuse-2-pack/161911156718?epid=1239081004&hash=item25b2a82fee:g:vM4AAOSwoAVbah9m:sc:USPSFirstClass!75189!US!-1

Power wire to Fused distro block i use several these

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STINGER-SHD822-HPM-DUAL-MIDI-MINI-ANL-INLINE-POWER-FUSE-HOLDER-0-4-GAUGE/390710958226?epid=2256109093&hash=item5af8301892:g:rGQAAMXQUmFSlCgW:sc:USPSFirstClass!75189!US!-1

These are actually made by Stinger

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-pcs-200-Amp-MINI-ANL-Fuses-for-Car-Fuse-holder-MANL/272444357476?hash=item3f6ef2fb64:g:-vwAAMXQfvlSjXOh

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-pcs-50-Amp-MINI-MIDI-ANL-Fuses-for-Fuse-holder-w-BLUE-LED-Car-Amp-Install/351901766395?hash=item51eefad2fb:g:1LIAAOxyLN9SjWVb

For grounding i use a solid block, great multi block

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-SPD514-PRO-Series-Power-Ground-Distribution-Block-w-ShocKrome-Finish/302113247272?epid=1045471361&hash=item46575a5028:g:2IkAAOSwnbZYCPPx&vxp=mtr

 
Thank you very much for all of your help my guy. im trying to keep the budget on a low since all i paid for was the subs and box which was 60 dollars everything else was donated including speakers, amps, rca's, wires, headunit and equalizer lol but i will keep the ported box in mind if i want to upgrade the sounds. difinitely doing the big three upgrade and thank you for the wire gauge help but last question hopefully lol sorry, is it ok to run the ground wire to the battery or should i just connect to chassis. ive been trying to research it but there seems to be a fifty fifty where some say its ok and others say its real bad. thanks again.
Run to a solid metal area sanded down /cleaned up fresh shiny metal. Like body frame /chasis. Once bolted down, just hit it with like any kind of gloss paint keep rust/corrosion down or like some brake grease. the shorter the ground wire the better. Running all way back to the battery isnt necessary and a real waste of wiring and/$.All the wiring and ground wiring should be in place just fine if you need to add another battery later on.you have the correct sized supply wiring and ground wiring to do so

 
Dont cheap out on the distro blocks. cheap ones melt ect and usually can damage your audio gear and or damage your vehicle.XS-Scorpian is another good brand, made by stinger.. T-spec is another good choice.

 
thanks a lot youve been a great help even went above and beyond my expectations especially with all the links, and if i could buy you some sort of bevarage i would lol.

i was looking into this distro box to cut down on multiples, is it good or no?

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KNF-60-Gauge-Distirbution-Block/dp/B00F6K1256?keywords=knukonceptz+distribution&qid=1539129022&s=Cell+Phones+%26+Accessories&sr=8-2&ref=sr_1_2
Its a great brand.. Usually a bit more expensive than most.I wouldnt buy it myself.You will need the one fuse under the hood to protect the wiring to the amps supply wiring..the fused distro block for the amps.if you need another battery, you can still use what Ive shown without having to buy another fuse.I dont like this concept due to having negative wiring and positive wiring within the same casing, Just a loose strand could possibly touch and create reverse polarity, and you end up with blown power supply/damaged amp.You dont have to buy the Solid distro block for the ground.You can make two contacts on the frame to ground each amp. I use the solid block so I make one connection/ground point and makes it easier to connect to a ground block to change amps ect. or use for grounding other items like fans ect. makes it easier and one main ground point.

 
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v_09

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