Whoops, a newbie blew his sub!

Spooney said:

Can you tell us a little about your setup? What size box and what’s the tuning? What amp/ohm load or how much power are you running? Gain settings,bass boost (hopefully none) , etc.    Too many variables we don’t know for anyone to be real helpful. My best guess though is clipping killed your sub. 

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Sorry about that, I should have mentioned the amp is a Rockford R750-1D. The 'Punch EQ' was turned up just slightly, although I'm concerned because the remote is called 'Punch EQ' too, I thought the remote was for gain? Confirmation on this would be great! (EDIT: https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/1510-56888-01/ seems to suggest that the 'Punch' is just part of the name, but it controls the internal gain of the amplifier and has nothing to do with the Punch EQ?)

The ported enclosure I used was this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262891168376 but seeing as it doesn't mention what frequency it is tuned in, I assume it was a bad purchase. Whether it was partly to blame or not for the blowout is beyond me!

I might just stick with an enclosed box now incase I was having subsonic issues with the vented box.

For the effort and price it's going to be to find someone to recone it, I'll probably just have to buy another sub, will be more careful next time!

The provider of the ported box said that it is tuned to 40hz. So does that mean I have to set my amplifier to subsonic 40hz so that it blocks out any frequencies lower than 40hz?

I think to be safe I'll just stick with a sealed box for now, if it happens again at least I know it isn't an issue with the ported box then (or my lack of proper amplifier configuration to ported boxes)

shredder2 said:

Unless you can get a properly designed-lower tuned box, it's gonna be lacking those lows as the SSF should be set around mid-30's where the port unloads. It wont make those lows completely disappear but the SSF slope combined with the ported enclosure's rolloff 6-7hz under tuning will sound like it.

And it might help your next sub last longer.

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I'll be sticking with the sealed box I have until I feel confident enough to use the ported box. Using the maths from this site http://www.decibelcar.com/articles/37-car-audio-electronics/119-subsonic-adjust.html if my box is tuned to 40hz I should mathmatically have my subsonic filter set to 30hz exactly. But anyway, thanks so much! Seriously appreciate everyone's help

Sorry to bump an old post but I just want to keep all the information in one place to save repeats.

I finally got myself a replacement sub and now I need to look into any potential causes of the clipping.

Even with EQs turned off and no bass boosts, the amp still seems to be clipping at high volumes. I truly believe the amp and sub are more than capable of performing at high volume, but I noticed my headlights were dimming on bass notes so I think my amp is clipping due to lack of power, rather than incorrectly set gains.

Car Electronix's video suggests that I get a better car battery for headlights that are dimming: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmJvre00KQ0 Whilst other sources are suggesting a capacitor or a better alternator (although I really didn't think I would need a capacitor or better alternator for a 750W RMS setup).

My current stock/factory battery is 36Ah and 330A, and in accordance to the video's information of matching the wattage with the cranking amps as a rough average, a Stinger SPV44 (44Ah and 550A) should be perfect as a replacement battery, should this be something I need.

Of course I can't expect anyone here to give me a definitive answer, but any theoretical or 'personal experience' answers will truly help me, but my question is, will a battery upgrade stop the headlights dimming and eliminate the clipping? (If lack of power is the issue in the first place - process of elimination is my key here! Plus I love learning )

Any help, suggestions and responses are greatly appreciated!

TL;DR: Does my stock car battery of 36Ah and 330A have the ability to fully power an 750W RMS amp or will I need an upgrade battery?

THATpurpleKUSH said:

What kind of vehicle? What size alt?

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It's a 2010 Renault Clio 1.2 16v. What sizes are you looking for exactly? I'll try fetch them in the morning if you really feel it will help.

hispls said:

That's a very wimpy battery.  I'd think you'd be safe with a good quality 55AH AGM style battery but a stock 35AH lead acid is probably struggling.  That said, that Orion sub you're using is no way in Hell a 750W sub and your Rockford amp is probably capable of closer to 1000W.   Electrical aside you will want a better sub if you want to really utilize the full capabilities of that amp without blowing up subs. 

Any capacitor anybody is trying to sell you is junk, avoid at all costs.  High Output alternator is overkill and a good one will not be cheap.

You might could build yourself a DIY lithium battery if you're handy, but I'm not sure how restricted or heavily taxed you are on imports from China there.

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The sub is 750W RMS https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_92822_Orion-XTR152D.html alongside the amp which is also 720W RMS @ 1ohm https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r750-1d/

Could you recommend a specific AGM battery, or could you let me know if the battery I linked (Stinger SPV44) would be a good match? With its wattage of 1320 it should meet the 750 RMS of my amp and have lots leftover for headlights etc, presuming the alternator isn't the issue.

Many thanks!