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Lithium Titanate (LTO) battery bank build.

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11 hours ago, Boominburban said:

Not much .... lol

You're thinking small. You need chargers/monitors, load testers, meters ect.. Drill press, band saws,drills and taps(and jigs, made for every configuration of battery you build, for drilling the holes) OR a CNC mill to make all the connecting bars/bussing in. Strong work benches that are non conductive (or mats for them that are non conductive).And all the power/hand tools required to do the job efficiently.

And 1/4" 6061 is on the small side, I generally use 3/8" and up for connectors, and much larger for bussing. 1-1/2" x 2", 1" x 3", 2" x 2-1/2", ect .... a 72" piece of those is generally $100 and up by itself. And that only makes one set of 36" buss bars. I'm building batteries for systems clamping 20k+, so running 2500+ amps through the buss bars.

And don't use stainless hardware, plain old zinc coated hardware is a better conductor. Make sure to use oxgard on all your connections.

I won't be doing anything soon. World Finals is in two days.

Get on FB, look up the DIY LTO lithium groups. Find Michael McCormick, he has a few cases of the pouch style LTO cells left . And Colin,( from Wolfram Audio) just helped organize a group buy for the same cells hispls is using. The supplier hispls is using has proven to be the best one to go through, as well, for that cell.The only one I would trust with my money

The cells hispls are using are much easier to build with than the pouched cells some of us are using. But, the pouched cells have been around for a decade + and are a proven cell. And we have been using them with great results in car audio for about a year now. People are just starting to test with these new cylinder type cells. Just do your research, and choose whats best for your needs.Build it correctly, don't try and cut corners to save a dime, and you will be very happy with your end product.

Ah thanx, I'll  be contacting Colin from wolfram.  Appreciate the additional info. I think my 1/4 thick bus bar for up to 500amps of current should do fine. Lol. Your running crazy amounts.  

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12 hours ago, L1ttlet said:

Ah thanx, I'll  be contacting Colin from wolfram.  Appreciate the additional info. I think my 1/4 thick bus bar for up to 500amps of current should do fine. Lol. Your running crazy amounts.  

Just keep in mind, It will take a 1-1/2" x 1/2" buss rail to flow 525 amps with no drop. 1-1/2" x 1/4" is only good for half that. Unless you are using 3" wide bars, 1/4" just isn't going to cut it for your main buss bars.


Refs;Bought from: Boomsday, special_k_1999, BAD_MAYEM, C1500Martin, roko, Michaellane

Sold to: sam_b03, Nate121, Smaxor5, Boomsday, unrealii, paulluap,technobass,gmc123

TN State Champion MECA MOD 4 - 2017 + 2018 (158.38db at the headrest on 6500w) 

2nd place World Finals MOD 4 - 2017

#Boominburban - Team OSC - Team FU Audio

Two JS Ult 300 amp alts - Battery delete under hood - 105ah of LTO Lithiums -

80 prs HU - PPI DSP -88R DSP - PPI E.7 EQ for fine tuning

Four PPI p600.2 on front stage - 4 CDT HD-M6's / 2 DS18 6.5 neopros / 2 Dayton Audio RS28 silk dome tweeters

Three Taramps 15k's on 6 FU Audio 1250 - 15's

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13 hours ago, hispls said:

Good luck!

Did a good bit of driving today.   Charging at 14.3-14.4 I haven't seen below 14.1 even after a couple full bass race songs to the point of hot cones.   Batteries recharge to 14.3-14.4 just about in the time it takes for the subs to cool down.  I really can't wait to try a second amp on these jokers.  I also need to get my alternator back to Nathan and get it switched to externally regulate so I can have some options there. 

I'm continuing to be impressed with these.   

Also up in Maine we usually start getting some snow by Halloween so I should be able to report a bit on cold weather performance pretty soon.

Thank you ! I have a good shot at a title, as I'm second loudest in the country in both of my classes.( as long as I can keep my windshield in it) OH, and MECA is doing World Championship rings this year!!

That is awesome!! Once you get them up around 15.2v, I think they will really shine. I know mine love 14.8 - 15.6v area. And let us know if these get stronger after a few cycles. Mine did.

Good luck on the cold weather performance. LTO is the best chemistry for that as well. I know the particular cells I am using are good down to -30deg Celsius, and still have a 15c rating there.


Refs;Bought from: Boomsday, special_k_1999, BAD_MAYEM, C1500Martin, roko, Michaellane

Sold to: sam_b03, Nate121, Smaxor5, Boomsday, unrealii, paulluap,technobass,gmc123

TN State Champion MECA MOD 4 - 2017 + 2018 (158.38db at the headrest on 6500w) 

2nd place World Finals MOD 4 - 2017

#Boominburban - Team OSC - Team FU Audio

Two JS Ult 300 amp alts - Battery delete under hood - 105ah of LTO Lithiums -

80 prs HU - PPI DSP -88R DSP - PPI E.7 EQ for fine tuning

Four PPI p600.2 on front stage - 4 CDT HD-M6's / 2 DS18 6.5 neopros / 2 Dayton Audio RS28 silk dome tweeters

Three Taramps 15k's on 6 FU Audio 1250 - 15's

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7 hours ago, Boominburban said:

Thank you ! I have a good shot at a title, as I'm second loudest in the country in both of my classes.( as long as I can keep my windshield in it) OH, and MECA is doing World Championship rings this year!!

That is awesome!! Once you get them up around 15.2v, I think they will really shine. I know mine love 14.8 - 15.6v area. And let us know if these get stronger after a few cycles. Mine did.

Good luck on the cold weather performance. LTO is the best chemistry for that as well. I know the particular cells I am using are good down to -30deg Celsius, and still have a 15c rating there.

How far away are you from 1st?  

Alternator is internally regulated (I have no idea why Nathan did that).  I've seen 14.8 charging briefly here and there but normally it likes to charge 14.4.  If I externally regulate I'm going to 18 anyway.... why stop at 15?  My big amp makes crap loads of power at 18V and my 6 channel is regulated power supply so if I pull a terminal at 5S it'll still deliver full power. 

I'm so far from actually needing these to be "stronger" though.  Voltage barely moves with just 1 amp and the subs won't last even 30 seconds on 2.   I'll need to find a free week next year to tear down all my 15s build up 8 12s rebuild the baffle to fit those, then get the second amp in there. 

7 hours ago, Boominburban said:

Unless you are using 3" wide bars,

You'll want 4" wide if you plan to have cells side by side.  These round cells are appx 2.5" diameter so 3" wide would be ugly.   Too narrow for 2 cells and too wide to mount cells next to each other without rows shorting.  I think 1.5" for a single row might be cutting it close really, you'll wind up wanting some wiggle room when you line them up most likely.

China sells some connecting hardware.  There's some copper straps that'll buss cell to cell and there's some pieces of inside threaded rod if you want to go end to end but you'll still need something for end caps on either side.  Both were kind of expensive but if you don't have time to cut and drill bar may be worth the extra money.

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So I  checked out those fb pages. Still waiting to be accepted for the diy lto group. So can't  get ahold of anyone there for group buys.  Hit up Colin and he does group buys every couple months.  22$ each cell plus shipping when cells get state side. Is that a good deal? I hit up KOK power limited and was quoted 324$ for 18 cells the (66160 lto cells, they just got in) plus 197$ shipping from China to door here in Texas. Not wanting to pay that kind of shipping. Just needing enough cells or even cells that boominburban has to make a 90ah-120ah battery bank. Y'all  know anybody that I  can group buy from soon?

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11 hours ago, L1ttlet said:

So I  checked out those fb pages. Still waiting to be accepted for the diy lto group. So can't  get ahold of anyone there for group buys.  Hit up Colin and he does group buys every couple months.  22$ each cell plus shipping when cells get state side. Is that a good deal? I hit up KOK power limited and was quoted 324$ for 18 cells the (66160 lto cells, they just got in) plus 197$ shipping from China to door here in Texas. Not wanting to pay that kind of shipping. Just needing enough cells or even cells that boominburban has to make a 90ah-120ah battery bank. Y'all  know anybody that I  can group buy from soon?

Kok power sells the connecting hardware but I shied away from dealing with them because they would not take credit card payments.   I was not going to send money to China with no buyer protection!  And western union or bank transfer adds some fees paid by the buyer.   They're probably legit and they were friendly enough (we even spoke on the phone), but I went with: https://baiguan-battery.en.alibaba.com/?spm=a2700.8443308.0.0.63373e5fROL1Tc

As I said, I'll vouch for those guys.

If you want the hardware might just buy the lot from Kok and report back on how they do when all is said and done.

Looks like that quoted price is 28$ per cell delivered.  This is probably what you'll pay from anybody.  (yes the shipping really is that expensive).   Wolfram will probably need to collect about 3$ per cell to ship from him to you, so what's the difference?  3$ per cell?   Not that much in the grand scheme of this project.  The only real margin for savings is someone organizing a group buy who can pick up the cells right at the port.  As is these were delivered by UPS to me so you are paying twice for shipping after they hit the port in Oakland negating much of the savings you can get per unit by buying quantity.

IF you feel very brave I had one seller trying to offer me an even better price but they wanted to deal outside of Alibaba and western union or bank transfer only. 

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Finally managed to get .3 volts drop this weekend briefly playing hard at idle.  

Also it has been down to 30 degrees at night here over the weekend and there is no noticeable loss of performance with the cells.  I'll keep updating as it gets proper cold but any of you fellas that live down south should have absolutely no worries.

Got the bank almost mounted in my brother's Civic yesterday.    Need to go out and buy some bolts to get it grounded to the frame then a few hours to get the front battery gone and mount and connect the amp. 

 

 

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