Mono block and 4 channel

which voice coils are you running on the p3 subs

I ended up with 2 pdr-m65s one on each subs and they push 700watts each at 2ohm. I think its actually closer to 750 but I dont remember the birthsheet numbers.

And I went with a pdr-f50 for highs 

Those 3 amps together will prolly br cheaper then the t1500 alone.

Really there are so many options that will work well.

Even the pioneer 9601 I think is the model number. Its rated at 1200w ar 1ohm and actually does a little more. It's super cheap. Not feature laden but cheap

King_Czar said:

Hey guys I'm pretty new to this forum thing and to car audio so here it goes....

I have 2 12 inch Rockford fosgate p3s that according to the RF website they are rated at 600 RMS. I've been researching for about a month and have learned a lot. Whether I did the right kind of research I don't know but I've narrowed it down to 2 amps. Either the Alpine pdx m12 or the rf t1500. They are both about the same price. I'm looking for something that's hits super hard but that's also clean at the same time. I'm also open to other suggestions. For my Door speakers I have the morel tempo ultra 6.5 components and coaxel in the back. They are rated at 120 RMS. For the 4 channel amps I haven't done much research yet but as of right now I was thinking of the Alpine xa70f. Hoping u guys can help.

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i have some P3 12"s as well and the voice coil config is pretty crucial. I ran a SoundQubed SQ2200.1 for over a year and it was only seeing 2 ohms and it hit hard. That amp puts out about 1400 watts at 2 ohms, and the subs never flinched. The alpine amp youre looking at for your subs is rather on the high side of the price range for what it can do and im sure that you were in the same boat that i was a few years ago when i returned to the car audio game and was unaware of who the actual players were. Alpine is (of course) still around and makes decent stuff, but for that dollar range there are tons of other amps that you can get that will be equally as reliable and have much more power on tap which means that you wont be pushing your amp nearly as hard to get the same result on the boom boom

King_Czar said:

What are your thoughts on the RF T1500? My subs are 4 ohm I believe does that change anything.

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It’s the t1500-1bdcp, I assume? and when you say 4 ohm, are you saying that each coil is 4 ohm?

That amp is as good as the alpine, but suffers the same issue regarding cost per watt. For that money you can get into a DC audio, a DD, Crescendo etc etc with far more power and equally as reliable and warranty is taken care of like a champ on most of the newer big dog mfgs. Most of the good amps these days are made in Korea by one of 2 buildhouses (Zenon(not xenon) and S&I). "Brands" will contact one of those 2 and choose from a sheet of specs and features they want to have in their amps and then the buildhouses assemble them and put the brand and model # logos on them. They even have tons of heatsinks for brands to choose from if they dont have one they have as an identifiable shape they already have in mind like the rockford heatsink shape. You can literally make your own brand name up and get a hold of these folks and get your own amps made (minimum order of 600 units tho). The reason i say this is that some brands count on the folks who dont know this yet or dont trust in the other brands that have emerged in the last few years from these buildhouses to buy the old school brand names like rf alpine etc etc. Hell, the pioneer gm8601 puts down some stupid amounts of power for stupid cheap. Bigblank did a dyno on it and got something like 1400 watts out of it and its under $120.

King_Czar said:

Oh that I definitely did not know. So what sre a good bang for the buck amps I should look into then?

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Look you bigblsnk on YouTube, and oldschoolcarstereo both do amp dyno test to show how the amps actually perform

What vehicle is all this in or going in?How is your electrical supply?Size of power wire and grounds/ground wiring?Ported enclosure tuned or sealed?

youdoofus said:

Hell, the pioneer gm8601 puts down some stupid amounts of power for stupid cheap. Bigblank did a dyno on it and got something like 1400 watts out of it and its under $120.

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Easy there...the 8601 didn't go over 1000 (just over) until he tested it below min rated impedance for burst power.

At the generally accepted 1% THD at min impedance it did just over rated power.  

Regardless, it's a solid amp that produces a lot of power for the cost.

The 9601 is 1200+ at 1 ohm.

n2audio said:

Easy there...the 8601 didn't go over 1000 (just over) until he tested it below min rated impedance for burst power.

At the generally accepted 1% THD at min impedance it did just over rated power.  

Regardless, it's a solid amp that produces a lot of power for the cost.

The 9601 is 1200+ at 1 ohm.

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my bad, i put the wrong model number

audiobaun said:

What vehicle is all this in or going in?How is your electrical supply?Size of power wire and grounds/ground wiring?Ported enclosure tuned or sealed?

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^^^ this ^^^

King_Czar said:

Oh that I definitely did not know. So what sre a good bang for the buck amps I should look into then?

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sundown audio, dc audio, DD (digital dynamics), soundqubed (id only get the korean models from these guys, skip the chinese stuff), skar (not a huge fan of these, but people swear by them and have good results), CAB (car audio bargains. and yes, they do pretty well for themselves), Crescendo. Then you have the other side of the coin which is the realm of pure insanity and that is the arena of brazilian made amps. Yes brazil is a big player in the car audio world. If you have power wire as thick as your forearm from your hood to your trunk, you can get a taramps or soundigital

King_Czar said:

Thanks a lot guys. All these amps are half the price of what I looking into and it sounds like the sound quality is about just as good. This will a be going into a 2017 Accord sport. Everything is stock for now. I have a sealed box as I like a solid clean punch instead of all the rumble. Do all these mention brands make a good 4 channel amps as well? Also when it comes to ohms, I hear a lot of people saying that hooking it up with 4 ohms sounds the best compared to 2 or 1. Is this true, or how do the ohms come into play?

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as far as the ohms goes, some amps really start to come alive when their impedance is dropped to 1 for class d mono amps, that being said, do not drop the impedance lower than what the amp is stated to be able to handle in the manual. Youll see folks doing this from time to time, but you a: have to have massive electrical capability to handle the current draw. Same is true for 4 channel amps, some of them operate best at 4, but many do better at 2 ohms. As long as the THD is ok at 2 ohms and the amp is capable of handling that load, you should be ok. Heavy hitter @keep_hope_alive has the same car (if not, maybe a 2016) and he can help you with your vehicle. He is an audio engineer by trade and one helluva nice guy

Thanks for the mention.  I replied to a PM and explained that i'm using the JL Audio VX1000/5i to perform the features of a FIX, TWK, and amplifier in one small chassis.  My car has a better soundstage than ever before and sounds really nice with the new arrangement.