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Hi, this is my first post on this forum and was hoping to get some help in designing my first ported sub enclosure. I have built boxes for subs before but I usually just followed the manufacturers suggested design, this time around I am in a tighter space so I have been stuck with the task of designing my own. The sub is going to go in the trunk of my 2013 WRX which has an unusual 2 level trunk(pictured below) that I am trying to save as much room as possible in. Sub will need to go on the upper level to the left of that little white box you can just barely see. I plan to make a false bottom that follows the angle down so that I can make the enclosure deeper. Dimensions available are about 24 inches wide 12.5 inches tall and 14 inches deep. I was hoping to be able to fit a sundown sa 12 but from what I read it would probably be better to go with 10" at this size of box if I want to stay ported(I do). I plan to power the sub initially with a polk d1000.1, because I have one laying around and should power the D2 version well at 1 ohm. I have been playing around with RE's box calculator and wanted to know what you guys thought of the design I have so far. I think I have the math right to where after displacements should net me about 1.25 cu ft @ ~33 hz. My real confusion lies with the more technical stuff like port length and size. I mostly listen to rap/hip-hop with some rock and folk mixed in.
I hope I have given enough information so that you guys can help me out :) Thanks ahead of time!
So I have a 2010 Mazda 3 and my panel quit working. I hit the buttons and no CD, no volume change, no Aux... nada
I'm going to try and switch out a plug or two and see if it helps, but most likely am going to need a new stereo. Mazda dealer said it would be around $700... so I'm looking to get something online or from Best Buy and have it installed for much cheaper.
Long story short, I know there are kits to fit stereos into cars so they , well, fit well.... But as far as finding a stereo, what limits do I have? Meaning, if I see a good one online or on Ebay, etc that is a good price, how will I know if it will work with my car and if the kit would fit, etc? Basically looking for any feedback from anyone about replacing the factory with something for a lot cheaper than $700:)
For example- I found this one that looks nice. How do I know what a kit will cost that fits it, if it will fit, and if Best Buy or someone will install it?
I'd like to upgrade my stereo in a 2011 Toyota Land cruiser Prado 150.
I have a factory audio system with the amplifier under the passenger seat.
The only requirements are 2xUSB, Apple carplay and the ability to connect a reversing camera.
The Pioneer SPH-Da120 looks as though it would be suitable.
Could anyone tell me if this will connect easily to the factory speakers on my Prado. I would like all the speakers to work and be connected correctly, but I'm not at all familiar with these things.
So if anyone has done this on their Prado or has any advice it would be greatly appreciated.
My amp and sub setup in my trunk works well except that the amp overheats regularly. It's a 4-channel amp, so I have two options for wiring the sub: bridged and unbridged. When it's unbridged, it's weak but it doesn't overheat as much. When it's bridged it sounds awesome but overheats after a few minutes, depending on the temperature outside. At first I thought that the ground wasn't good enough, so I moved it to the one of the bolts on the rear strut tower and sanded down every surface until shiny metal. I also cut the ground wire down to 18" or less. It still overheats. Maybe I need a higher gauge wire? I went to this audio shop and this guy told me to try switching the sub from channels 1 and 2 bridged to channels 3 and 4 bridged. So I did. Not sure what it did. I also might need to tune the setup more accurately, but I don't know that that has much to do with overheating issues.
My car (95 Civic if you're wondering) came wired by the previous owner for a subwoofer. 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the trunk, 4 gauge ground, and a remote wire and RCA cables from the radio to the trunk. Power and ground are both OFC. Back in April, I got a used amp and a sub and put it in my trunk. I don't know much about audio/electrical, but I'll list what I know about my setup below:
The amp I got is a PlanetAudio 4-channel amp (I know it's meant for speakers, but it at least works for the sub and I got it for $50). Here it is.
The sub is a Pioneer. Don't know the model number, but the reading on the multimeter at the terminals tells me it's a 4-ohm sub. It's a single voice-coil subwoofer.
What I don't understand is what bridging does to the impedance of the circuit. From my understanding, you want to match the impedance as close as you possibly can. So, if my amp is 4 ohms, I want a 4 ohm speaker to match it. Does bridging channels 1 and 2 put the impedance at 2 ohms and make it unstable? Or does running the sub on 1 channel put it at 8 ohms and make it more stable? I don't quite understand.
Another quick few things. I have no money, but I still appreciate advice like "get a new amp" or "get a fan to blow air on it" even though I won't be able to follow through with it until I pay for college. Advice concerning the wiring will be much more valuable to me.
Thanks for the help, guys.