I have a 2018 grand Cherokee that I upgraded the sound in. Had all 4 speakers replaced and had a sub and 5-way pioneer gm-d9605 amp. I kept the factory head. Immediately after the install the left rear channel was silent. I brought it back and the resistor on that channel (required to match OEM resistance) was adjusted. Again it was out quickly and they ultimately replaced the resistor and it work great for 10 days when the front left went out. It was intermittent .. sometimes when I turned the car on it worked sometimes it didn’t. I brought it back again and after testing and replacing that resistor it still would not turn on. They told me that the problem was my head not being compatible but that doesn’t make sense with it working fine for 10 days. They recommend upgrading my head and bezel assembly’s which is now an option. Any suggestions what the problem that it can be
First
MattinMO
Senior VIP Member
What component to you have to get signal to the amp? LOC? DSP? High level input?
- Thread Starter
- #4
I believe it’s just a high level input with a resistor to match what the head unit is expecting to turn that channel on. I personally think there’s a short somewhere getting back to the head and the radio is protecting itself by shutting down that channel. Since they fiddled with it yesterday that channel won’t activate at all and there’s a lag booting up which is kind of acting like a bad signal is getting back to the head and its trying to figure it out
MattinMO
Senior VIP Member
Yeah...with really really new cars you pretty much have to get a dsp or you’re gonna have issues like this.
- Thread Starter
- #6
That’s good for sound quality but would that solve the back resistance issue?
winkychevelle 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
The issue I see here is that the speakers are being driven by an amp not the headunit. This leads me to believe the the headunit is not going into protect because of a short at the speaker. Reason being is that the amp would protect first and shut off.
This guides us to looking at the signal feed.
The connections at the line out converter need to be solid. Loose wires ****.
Then we need to look at the rca wires running from the loc to the amp.
A short here could be the problem
Easiest is to make sure the RCA are tight on the amp and the lock. I recently had an rca pull off of an amp due to a bad bump. It cause similar issues.
You can check the amp and door speakers simply by moving the rca cables around 1 at a time on the amp.
Finally make sure everything is grounded nice and tight. It's crazy what a bad ground can do sometimes
This guides us to looking at the signal feed.
The connections at the line out converter need to be solid. Loose wires ****.
Then we need to look at the rca wires running from the loc to the amp.
A short here could be the problem
Easiest is to make sure the RCA are tight on the amp and the lock. I recently had an rca pull off of an amp due to a bad bump. It cause similar issues.
You can check the amp and door speakers simply by moving the rca cables around 1 at a time on the amp.
Finally make sure everything is grounded nice and tight. It's crazy what a bad ground can do sometimes
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