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Stock System Upgrade Recommendation

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Naxin

CarAudio.com Newbie
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Recently purchased a 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer which I'm looking to turn into a bit of a Car Audio project. Apologies for poor terminology in advance as I'm a beginner with most of this stuff.

Going to be doing a bunch of research, possibly going the full mile with sound deadening etc. and I'm looking for some recommendations for some fronts & rears to replace my stock system.

Both front & rear door slots support 6.5" speakers, with a slot for seperate tweeters at the front. I've used Rockford P165-SI 6.5" Components in a previous car and had some issues, although wrong mounting size + cheap head unit + no sound deadening + a multitude of other considerations may have been the problem.

What I already have:

  1. Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Sub
  2. Audison Bit.One DSP
  3. Alpine MRX-M55 550W Sub Amp
  4. Hertz HE-4 4-Channel Amp (70W per channel RMS @ 4-Ohm)
Any criticisms of my current gear welcome, but some suggestions for some models priced up to or around 200 USD per set for front components & rear 6.5" would be most welcome!

Click to read more...
 
Just some considerations I've looked at:

Fronts:

  1. JL Audio C3-650 6.5" Component
  2. Alpine RS65C 6.5" Component
  3. Rockford P165-SI 6.5" Component
Rears:

  1. Rockford Fosgate T1675
  2. Alpine RS-65
 
Naxin said:
Just some considerations I've looked at:

Fronts:

  1. JL Audio C3-650 6.5" Component
  2. Alpine RS65C 6.5" Component
  3. Rockford P165-SI 6.5" Component
Rears:

  1. Rockford Fosgate T1675
  2. Alpine RS-65
Click to expand...
skip the rears and go active up front. proper front staging with good amplification and drivers will sound monumentally better than a pair of comps up front. Im not all that familiar with the bit.one processor, but if im not mistaken, it can take a L/R input and break it down into an active set up and retain the rears so you can run them as well. If thats the case, then definitely go active up front and run your 4 channel for the fronts and get a small 2 channel for your rears. I have 2 of those same subs, and they can definitely hit, but youre gonna want a custom ported box with corner 45s

 
youdoofus said:
skip the rears and go active up front. proper front staging with good amplification and drivers will sound monumentally better than a pair of comps up front. Im not all that familiar with the bit.one processor, but if im not mistaken, it can take a L/R input and break it down into an active set up and retain the rears so you can run them as well. If thats the case, then definitely go active up front and run your 4 channel for the fronts and get a small 2 channel for your rears. I have 2 of those same subs, and they can definitely hit, but youre gonna want a custom ported box with corner 45s
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips dude.

I've got a shitty box that doesn't do my P3 justice. Ported you reckon? How would you describe the sound you get out of that? I only really get the low low end atm.

P.S. What's a corner 45?

 
Update:

I went and listened to the JL's, Infinity 6520CX and Focal PS 165's in shop.

Infinities sound profile was a bit heavy on the mid bass. Focals were bright in comparison and the JL's just sounded flat in response and blooming tight.

TBH the infinities had some clear distortion in some songs, probably the shops setup tho. Pp

Definitely leaning towards the JLs for the fronts. Feel that with the Audison Bit. One I'll be able to do more with them.

Keen to hear anyone's opinions on any of the speakers I've mentioned!

 
Naxin said:
Thanks for the tips dude.

I've got a shitty box that doesn't do my P3 justice. Ported you reckon? How would you describe the sound you get out of that? I only really get the low low end atm.

P.S. What's a corner 45?
Click to expand...
np. mine are in a sealed prefab and it doesnt do my P3s justice either. id say that mine really like around the 40 hz range and fall off significantly above and below that range. Tried several amps and many variants of x-over settings and i just keep coming back to the box, so yes, ported is where id head too. Corner 45s are triangular slats that sit in the corners of the inside of sub enclosures that make the 90 degree corners angled to 45 degrees to enhance the flow of air. It basically makes it to where the air is able to move more smoothly around the bends of the insides of the box instead of hitting a flat wall. 

look at the right side corners

4c22a243_31291310094_large.jpeg


 
Naxin said:
Update:

I went and listened to the JL's, Infinity 6520CX and Focal PS 165's in shop.

Infinities sound profile was a bit heavy on the mid bass. Focals were bright in comparison and the JL's just sounded flat in response and blooming tight.

TBH the infinities had some clear distortion in some songs, probably the shops setup tho. Pp

Definitely leaning towards the JLs for the fronts. Feel that with the Audison Bit. One I'll be able to do more with them.

Keen to hear anyone's opinions on any of the speakers I've mentioned!
Click to expand...


I've always been impressed with JL components in the sound board at shops and in cars.  They're a bit spendy but they're good quality and IMO they sound good.

I have not used Infinity speakers in ages but I've had good results with the JBL lineup... worth an audition if you can find any local.   My experience with Infinity components/coaxials is that they sound nice and get pretty loud off of low power but if you're running bigger power they stop sounding good.

I suspect your sub may be engineered to function best in a ported box.  If it doesn't sound right you may just improve things by playing with the sub's orientation and position in the vehicle.... the difference can be dramatic.  If that fails consider getting a custom designed ported box.

 
Naxin said:
Update:

I went and listened to the JL's, Infinity 6520CX and Focal PS 165's in shop.

Infinities sound profile was a bit heavy on the mid bass. Focals were bright in comparison and the JL's just sounded flat in response and blooming tight.

TBH the infinities had some clear distortion in some songs, probably the shops setup tho. Pp

Definitely leaning towards the JLs for the fronts. Feel that with the Audison Bit. One I'll be able to do more with them.

Keen to hear anyone's opinions on any of the speakers I've mentioned!
Click to expand...
Forget about components and buy raw drivers.  When you go active, nothing else matters because you have a bit one. All the speakers will sound relatively the same after a proper tune.

 
hispls said:
I've always been impressed with JL components in the sound board at shops and in cars.  They're a bit spendy but they're good quality and IMO they sound good.

I have not used Infinity speakers in ages but I've had good results with the JBL lineup... worth an audition if you can find any local.   My experience with Infinity components/coaxials is that they sound nice and get pretty loud off of low power but if you're running bigger power they stop sounding good.

I suspect your sub may be engineered to function best in a ported box.  If it doesn't sound right you may just improve things by playing with the sub's orientation and position in the vehicle.... the difference can be dramatic.  If that fails consider getting a custom designed ported box.
Click to expand...
all good advice

wheni was selling car audio back in the early 2000s, the infinitys were kinda power hungry, but you had to be careful not to over power them, especially the kappas. I cant tell you how many reference and kappas some back with smoked tweeters from people running them off a rocksofr 400a2 bridged. It was stupid how many of them came back from overpowering or clipping(not sure which as i wasnt able to verify the gain settings in the car)

 
Jeffdachef said:
Forget about components and buy raw drivers.  When you go active, nothing else matters because you have a bit one. All the speakers will sound relatively the same after a proper tune.
Click to expand...
I'm a little confused, youdoofus suggested I run the fronts 'active', as far as my understanding that was purchasing component speakers and running each tweeter active (having a dedicated channel on an amp and the DSP?) instead of passive (connected via a passive crossover from the door woofers)

Is this what you are suggesting also? Or are you suggesting purchasing tweeters and door woofers separately or not purchasing tweeters at all?

 
Naxin said:
I'm a little confused, youdoofus suggested I run the fronts 'active', as far as my understanding that was purchasing component speakers and running each tweeter active (having a dedicated channel on an amp and the DSP?) instead of passive (connected via a passive crossover from the door woofers)

Is this what you are suggesting also? Or are you suggesting purchasing tweeters and door woofers separately or not purchasing tweeters at all?
Click to expand...
No he is saying that it's a waste of money to buy name brand components in the first place if you already know you're going to go fully active with a dsp. You would save a lot of money by buying the parts separately excluding the overpriced passive crossover.

 
blazian87 said:
No he is saying that it's a waste of money to buy name brand components in the first place if you already know you're going to go fully active with a dsp. You would save a lot of money by buying the parts separately excluding the overpriced passive crossover.
Click to expand...
I, as well as many other people have fallen victim to the same thing. I ran some rainbow audio germanium 6.5 sets and ran them passive first, then I bi-amped them passively, then I ended up getting a dsp and ran fully active and that's when I could really manipulate how the drivers sounded. Looking back I would've bought separates and dsp in the first place but it was all a learning experience for me so I enjoyed what I got out of it. 

 
Spend money on quality engineering, acoustical door treatments, power. Dont spend it on name brands that cheap out on engineering and pour all their money on marketing.

Seas prestige, Scanspeak, Fostex, Sb acoustics are the manufacturers that all the mainstream brands you named rely on to make their highest end speakers.  All the cheap stuff from your mainstream brands are chinese made.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
blazian87 said:
No he is saying that it's a waste of money to buy name brand components in the first place if you already know you're going to go fully active with a dsp. You would save a lot of money by buying the parts separately excluding the overpriced passive crossover.
Click to expand...


Jeffdachef said:
Spend money on quality engineering, acoustical door treatments, power. Dont spend it on name brands that cheap out on engineering and pour all their money on marketing.

Seas prestige, Scanspeak, Fostex, Sb acoustics are the manufacturers that all the mainstream brands you named rely on to make their highest end speakers.  All the cheap stuff from your mainstream brands are chinese made.
Click to expand...


Owning a DSP is new to me, so I'm yet to truly test it out and see its benefits with different speakers, this is all news to me. I guess that's why I'm hitting up these forums, to avoid the mistakes people with heaps of experience have already made.

Honestly, I'm not after clear answers on what to buy, but just interested in learning what can be learned to maximize SQ in my car and future car audio projects. I can totally understand what you're saying, thanks for the warning.

What you're suggesting reminds me of Power Supplies in the DIY PC industry. Seasonic vs. Corsair etc. The reason I bring this up is there were other considerations, for example - it was impossible to buy Seasonic (Which Corsair used for their high-end power supply designs) in Australia because it simply isn't distributed easily for off-the-shelf purchase.

Is there similar issues with these companies? Are these drivers still designed for 'car audio' ? I.e. standard brackets for mounting?

Appreciate all the knowledge guys.

 
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