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Newbie - Need help with box design please

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Hello everyone! First time poster but I've been a lurker long enough.

 

I'm looking for help with designing a box that'll work in the back of a 92 jeep wrangler. I listen mostly to metal but also rock and occasionally some techno or dubstep; whatever people call it now. I want the box to be 28"Lx36"Wx18"H. I'd like the subs to face up. With Ports heading to the front or rear.

 

 

Products:

-Pioneer DEH-6000? Head Unit - I'll replace it at some point

-Rockville db16 4000w RMS Mono Amp - Not replacing I like this cheap POS

x2-Cerwin Vega 12" V122 dual voice coil 2ohm Subwoofers - rated @ 450rms

-3 1000 amp lead acid batteries

-New 90amp Alt. (upgrade later to 200amp)

 

I want atleast two 12" subs but If I have enough space I'd prefer 3 subs.

 

I want a one off box. Something new. Something a little different. I'll pay for good schematics. I have the tools, space, money, and time to build it myself. I just need good measurements to go by.

 

Thank you very much to anyone that's willing to help.

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Here are the T/S numbers

 

I played with it for a bit, but everything I put into WinISD looked peaky.  But I know very little and you wouldn't want my design anyways.

They seem to look best to me in 2 cubes a piece at 32Hz. In the manual the box is 1.25 cubes per sub.

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2 hours ago, mestapho said:

Here are the T/S numbers

 

I played with it for a bit, but everything I put into WinISD looked peaky.  But I know very little and you wouldn't want my design anyways.

They seem to look best to me in 2 cubes a piece at 32Hz. In the manual the box is 1.25 cubes per sub.

yea that is very typical for almost any mainstream 12" sub. Their primary goal is to sell as much as they can so they will say it will work with a 1.25 box but sounds way better, louder, and less peaky in a 2 cube box. I like how image dynamics is up front about it and says they have 3 different box recommendations to choose from and show you the curve with it. http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d53db0_bf2da363da044eed9aafe18ddcc35806.pdf

Also, I think OP should consider going with a higher tune since he primarily listens to metal and rock. 32 hz would work well with almost any sub so it's a very generic place to start. Moving the tune up can help bring alive the music that he's missing. 

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On 7/24/2018 at 4:29 PM, Bangler said:

Hello everyone! First time poster but I've been a lurker long enough.

 

I'm looking for help with designing a box that'll work in the back of a 92 jeep wrangler. I listen mostly to metal but also rock and occasionally some techno or dubstep; whatever people call it now. I want the box to be 28"Lx36"Wx18"H. I'd like the subs to face up. With Ports heading to the front or rear.

 

 

Products:

-Pioneer DEH-6000? Head Unit - I'll replace it at some point

-Rockville db16 4000w RMS Mono Amp - Not replacing I like this cheap POS

x2-Cerwin Vega 12" V122 dual voice coil 2ohm Subwoofers - rated @ 450rms

-3 1000 amp lead acid batteries

-New 90amp Alt. (upgrade later to 200amp)

 

I want atleast two 12" subs but If I have enough space I'd prefer 3 subs.

 

I want a one off box. Something new. Something a little different. I'll pay for good schematics. I have the tools, space, money, and time to build it myself. I just need good measurements to go by.

 

Thank you very much to anyone that's willing to help.

First of all, make sure you carry a fire extinguisher if you plan on keeping that Rockville amp.

Have reasonable expectations if you have a soft-top open top vehicle.   Not sure if you have room for more than 2 woofers and not sure if your amp will be too much for them.  Personally I'd start with some generic box specs like the DD spec boxes then lower tuning as needed by shrinking the port.

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I ran two of the cheap rockville 4 channels to try out once. They were impressive for $99 but did get pretty hot.

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35 minutes ago, Popwarhomie said:

I ran two of the cheap rockville 4 channels to try out once. They were impressive for $99 but did get pretty hot.

 

Read the comments, this guy isn't the only one to have his amps actually catch fire.   Selling shit like that should be illegal and nobody should encourage people to buy products that are known fire hazards to put into their vehicles.

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26 minutes ago, hispls said:

Read the comments, this guy isn't the only one to have his amps actually catch fire.   Selling shit like that should be illegal and nobody should encourage people to buy products that are known fire hazards to put into their vehicles.

Must be a newer batch than I had. Actually my buddy bought 4 of them after I had mine for a cheap stunt wall and never had an issue either.

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On 8/2/2018 at 6:33 AM, hispls said:

 

Read the comments, this guy isn't the only one to have his amps actually catch fire.   Selling shit like that should be illegal and nobody should encourage people to buy products that are known fire hazards to put into their vehicles.

Those are an older line up. Then newer dB series seem to be fine. I have the dB45 hooked up to two 12s. Not a problem.

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8 hours ago, SilentObserver said:

Those are an older line up. Then newer dB series seem to be fine. I have the dB45 hooked up to two 12s. Not a problem.

Yeah, I'm sure their quality has come up leaps and bounds.....

 it never ceases to amaze me the brand loyalty these companies can get by selling products that could actually kill or maim people and burn your car to the ground if they have a low enough dollar per watt ratio.

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Posted (edited)
On 8/1/2018 at 9:57 PM, blazian87 said:

yea that is very typical for almost any mainstream 12" sub. Their primary goal is to sell as much as they can so they will say it will work with a 1.25 box but sounds way better, louder, and less peaky in a 2 cube box. I like how image dynamics is up front about it and says they have 3 different box recommendations to choose from and show you the curve with it. http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d53db0_bf2da363da044eed9aafe18ddcc35806.pdf

Also, I think OP should consider going with a higher tune since he primarily listens to metal and rock. 32 hz would work well with almost any sub so it's a very generic place to start. Moving the tune up can help bring alive the music that he's missing. 

I agree about the sub being mainstream and lower level... for his music tastes as well a higher tune probably would work out best.

I put the T/s specs into Winisd and used this enclosure and it looked pretty good to me... Imagine that... lol

XxNKp9.jpg

Edited by shredder2
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19 hours ago, hispls said:

Yeah, I'm sure their quality has come up leaps and bounds.....

 it never ceases to amaze me the brand loyalty these companies can get by selling products that could actually kill or maim people and burn your car to the ground if they have a low enough dollar per watt ratio.

🙄 Whatever you say.

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Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, SilentObserver said:

🙄 Whatever you say.

Not like Samsung didn't have an issue with exploding phones, or Apple with their exploding iPods. Can't believe the brand loyalty these companies get by selling products that could actually kill or maim people...

At the end of the day, you're basing your opinion of a brand on a single video, and a bunch of comments on said video. Not really a scientific analysis there.

Edited by SilentObserver

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13 hours ago, SilentObserver said:

Not like Samsung didn't have an issue with exploding phones, or Apple with their exploding iPods. Can't believe the brand loyalty these companies get by selling products that could actually kill or maim people...

At the end of the day, you're basing your opinion of a brand on a single video, and a bunch of comments on said video. Not really a scientific analysis there.

Their products are all around flea market garbage, the fact that they're catching on fire is just the icing on the cake.  The difference with Samsung is that they had a hundred really great products before they had one that was a fire hazard and had a complete recall of every device that could be a problem and completely discontinued that line. 


Suit yourself though.  Pay now or pay later.

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On ‎8‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 10:39 PM, mestapho said:

Here are the T/S numbers

 

I played with it for a bit, but everything I put into WinISD looked peaky.  But I know very little and you wouldn't want my design anyways.

They seem to look best to me in 2 cubes a piece at 32Hz. In the manual the box is 1.25 cubes per sub.

On ‎8‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 12:57 AM, blazian87 said:

yea that is very typical for almost any mainstream 12" sub. Their primary goal is to sell as much as they can so they will say it will work with a 1.25 box but sounds way better, louder, and less peaky in a 2 cube box. I like how image dynamics is up front about it and says they have 3 different box recommendations to choose from and show you the curve with it. http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d53db0_bf2da363da044eed9aafe18ddcc35806.pdf

Also, I think OP should consider going with a higher tune since he primarily listens to metal and rock. 32 hz would work well with almost any sub so it's a very generic place to start. Moving the tune up can help bring alive the music that he's missing. 

Apologies it has taken me so long to reply! Thanks to everyone for taking time to help.

 

The manual does say 1.25cubes as a minimum so I bought a box about that size and it sounds terrible. It lacks punch.  Up to 50% power isn't bad but after that, it becomes incredible "boomey" - If that's a good word for it. I'm a noob, don't know terms yet.  lol. 

 

Right now I'm powering a single V122 12" 2ohm sub with a  Rockville DB14 2000watt RMS amp in a 1.25cube box. My math works my current box out closer to 1.1cubes though. Its bad.

 

On ‎8‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 8:44 AM, hispls said:

First of all, make sure you carry a fire extinguisher if you plan on keeping that Rockville amp.

Have reasonable expectations if you have a soft-top open top vehicle.   Not sure if you have room for more than 2 woofers and not sure if your amp will be too much for them.  Personally I'd start with some generic box specs like the DD spec boxes then lower tuning as needed by shrinking the port.

 

LMAO. If it burns well I'll pull the plates and leave it there... Shit, nah I actually like this jeep   :( 

 

Perhaps a little more back round might help.

Its a hard top that I run without doors so its not a sealed unit. Its a summer ride that I like to cruise in. I thought about a generic box and have looked at a few but I really want to go with a custom box. I've rebuilt this Jeep from the ground up with roughly 200hrs of labor and $8000 in parts alone. She looks rough, but its an incredibly well built Jeep that looks bone stock. Everything is brand new.

 

I'm going for a certain look with this jeep, part of the reason I wanted top firing subs. If there are more reasons to not go this route, then there are for it; Ill have to move this "softcore" build over to my 98 Cherokee that I'm currently building.

 

 

 

 

 

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On ‎8‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 9:33 AM, hispls said:

Read the comments, this guy isn't the only one to have his amps actually catch fire.   Selling shit like that should be illegal and nobody should encourage people to buy products that are known fire hazards to put into their vehicles.

 

I like to live dangerously. 

 

Just messing. Shouldn't be a worry with this setup cause it isn't getting demo'd, I'm not competing, and I only ever drive 10-15 minutes at a time.

 

On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 12:45 AM, SilentObserver said:

Those are an older line up. Then newer dB series seem to be fine. I have the dB45 hooked up to two 12s. Not a problem.

Well... That's good to know!

After a 30 minute jam session, the DB14 unit was barely warm to the touch.. Haven't used a IR temp gun on it yet though so that's subjective.

 

On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 9:34 AM, hispls said:

Yeah, I'm sure their quality has come up leaps and bounds.....

 it never ceases to amaze me the brand loyalty these companies can get by selling products that could actually kill or maim people and burn your car to the ground if they have a low enough dollar per watt ratio.

 

I have no loyalties to Rockville. I saw these on amazon for cheap and decided I wanted to try something new. My personality leads me to over do everything, it was INCREDIBLY hard for me to buy these cheap POS. That's why I don't want to get rid of them. I'm going against everything I do in RL by using these amps. This is good for me.

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On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 2:01 PM, shredder2 said:

I agree about the sub being mainstream and lower level... for his music tastes as well a higher tune probably would work out best.

I put the T/s specs into Winisd and used this enclosure and it looked pretty good to me... Imagine that... lol

XxNKp9.jpg

 

That looks simple enough. Yes the whole setup is low buck mainstream garbage. The next build will be with quality equipment. I want to get my feet wet with this build as I get more comfortable with car audio. Sure I could buy a high quality Cerwin Vega - Stroker Pro with a Crescendo amp but I'm trying to do something a little different here. Its hard for me. lol

 

On ‎8‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 6:28 PM, hispls said:

Their products are all around flea market garbage, the fact that they're catching on fire is just the icing on the cake.  The difference with Samsung is that they had a hundred really great products before they had one that was a fire hazard and had a complete recall of every device that could be a problem and completely discontinued that line. 


Suit yourself though.  Pay now or pay later.

I agree with ya but lets not over exaggerate. This build isn't entering any competitions, demos, or will ever see more then 30 minutes of use at a time. Variables dictate what one can get away with, "pay now or pay later" isn't always the end all be all.

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Posted (edited)

So no chance of having a top firing sub with the amount of space I have?

Lets for a second say I'm dead set on having a top firing enclosure. What Equipment would be recommended to accomplish that? Would a single 15' or single 18' be better?  I don't have a budget. I can spend as much or as little as I want. I just don't want to change amps. No risk, no reward.  :)

Edited by Bangler

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Top firing with rear port?.. hatch/suv style?.. I don't see why not

With 28"Lx36"Wx18"H available you got room to spare for a set of 12's... that was just an enclosure I used to see how it modeled up around 2ft3 net per and illustrate the size... pretty small IMO with that round port. 

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40 minutes ago, shredder2 said:

Top firing with rear port?.. hatch/suv style?.. I don't see why not

With 28"Lx36"Wx18"H available you got room to spare for a set of 12's... that was just an enclosure I used to see how it modeled up around 2ft3 net per and illustrate the size... pretty small IMO with that round port. 

Top firing with 1 or more ports facing the front or rear of the vehicle. I just want the most subwoofer I can get in a enclosure of that size. I'd prefer 3 12's but if that doesn't work. I could do two 15's or one 18.

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Spitballing huh?... once you decide the equipment you'll use I'm sure someone can help you better. 

28"Lx36"Wx18"H = 9.75 gross... there's probably room for 3 12's there... that amp tho... lol...  got clearance to the tailgate with those measurements?

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1 hour ago, shredder2 said:

snip

Yes. 3-4" inches rearward to the gate with 12" available front.

Spitballing could be the word; I'd prefer flexibility. Original goal stands but I have limited experience here. I could throw something together solo but I'd prefer to maximize the available space. I have plenty of money so I could buy different subs, provided there is a reasonable argument but I'd prefer to use 3 of the V122 CW 12" subs that I started with. Amp is easily upgradable, lets not get bogged down on it   :p

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That's a dual 2 sub correct?.. thinking of loading the amp at 1.33ohm using 3?.. .66 seems a bit much for that Rockville.

10 minutes ago, Bangler said:

Yes. 3-4" inches rearward to the gate with 12" available front.

Spitballing could be the word; I'd prefer flexibility. Original goal stands but I have limited experience here. I could throw something together solo but I'd prefer to maximize the available space. I have plenty of money so I could buy different subs, provided there is a reasonable argument but I'd prefer to use 3 of the V122 CW 12" subs that I started with. Amp is easily upgradable, lets not get bogged down on it   😛

...So If I'm understanding this correctly its 28" available front to rear (depth) with 3-4" to the tailgate?

36" wide and 18" tall

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, shredder2 said:

That's a dual 2 sub correct?.. thinking of loading the amp at 1.33ohm using 3?.. .66 seems a bit much for that Rockville.

...So If I'm understanding this correctly its 28" available front to rear (depth) with 3-4" to the tailgate?

36" wide and 18" tall

Total overall length in the rear is 42"  x 36" width x 18" height. My thoughts were to leave enough length for a battery box to the front. If the extra space is needed for the box, the batteries will go else where

12 hours ago, shredder2 said:

Isn't that a 2ohm stable amp?

The amp is rated @ 4000wrms @ 2ohm but I assume a <20% loss netting me closer to 3200wrms. After deliberating with a friend and a few beers. We figured we could run 3 @ 1.33 ohms with this amp for short excursions. Running below 2 ohms should net me some extra power... right? That's what we figured anyways.

 

 If the amp melts I'll upgrade to something different. If it pops the subs, I'm only out $300. Then I'll have an excuse to upgrade.

Edited by Bangler

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6 hours ago, Bangler said:

Total overall length in the rear is 42"  x 36" width x 18" height. My thoughts were to leave enough length for a battery box to the front. If the extra space is needed for the box, the batteries will go else where

The amp is rated @ 4000wrms @ 2ohm but I assume a <20% loss netting me closer to 3200wrms. After deliberating with a friend and a few beers. We figured we could run 3 @ 1.33 ohms with this amp for short excursions. Running below 2 ohms should net me some extra power... right? That's what we figured anyways.

 

 If the amp melts I'll upgrade to something different. If it pops the subs, I'm only out $300. Then I'll have an excuse to upgrade.

Really don't know about Rockville's low impedance capability. 1.33ohm for short excursions... what does that mean anyways? Thinking of re-wiring the subs at 2.7ohm when not at 1.33 ohm?

Unless you're just playing around... I'd stick to 2 subs wired to 2 ohm in a proper enclosure. It just seems like a lot of work for what you're likely to get to me. Unless you're planning to upgrade subs and amp... in that case, build the enclosure for whatever you're going to get eventually and throw those Vegas in there till you switch out to more capable drivers and maybe different amp?.. 3200 wrms?.. Idk about that... maybe in the dark of the moon after sacrificing a goat when pluto and uranus align. I just can't see that amp delivering anywhere near rated... if you pop the subs it'll likely be cause of clipping. And that's if the amp lasts... I'd stick to 2 ohm if it was me with that amp.

Anyone else wanna add anything?

 

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