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BigSteve757

Question about Pro Audio Components vs Normal Component Speakers

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So i bought a pair of Pro audio speakers (CT Sounds STRATO PA (PRO AUDIO) 6.5 Components)

to replace my factory front door speakers and now i see that alot of people say they wont sound good without some type of equalizer and a bunch of tuning...Is this true??? if so should i send them back and get normal component speakers???

 

Just for your info...

 

I have a set of CT Sounds 5x7 Meso Coaxials for my rear doors

A Soundstream ST4.1000D for the door speakers

A single Skar ZVX 12 paired with a Skar Skv2-1500.1

A 3.0cuft box tuned to 32hz

A 320 amp Apex Alternator

A Pioneer MVH-2300NEX

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So i bought a pair of Pro audio speakers (CT Sounds STRATO PA (PRO AUDIO) 6.5 Components)

to replace my factory front door speakers and now i see that alot of people say they wont sound good without some type of equalizer and a bunch of tuning...Is this true??? if so should i send them back and get normal component speakers???

 

Just for your info...

 

I have a set of CT Sounds 5x7 Meso Coaxials for my rear doors

A Soundstream ST4.1000D for the door speakers

A single Skar ZVX 12 paired with a Skar Skv2-1500.1

A 3.0cuft box tuned to 32hz

A 320 amp Apex Alternator

A Pioneer MVH-2300NEX

They will sound fine. Just no midbass. All the PA style 6.5s have no midbass. You should eq no matter what speaker you get.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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They will sound fine. Just no midbass. All the PA style 6.5s have no midbass. You should eq no matter what speaker you get.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Do you think the rear coaxials would be enough to make up for the mid bass?

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So i bought a pair of Pro audio speakers (CT Sounds STRATO PA (PRO AUDIO) 6.5 Components)

to replace my factory front door speakers and now i see that alot of people say they wont sound good without some type of equalizer and a bunch of tuning...Is this true??? if so should i send them back and get normal component speakers???

 

Just for your info...

 

I have a set of CT Sounds 5x7 Meso Coaxials for my rear doors

A Soundstream ST4.1000D for the door speakers

A single Skar ZVX 12 paired with a Skar Skv2-1500.1

A 3.0cuft box tuned to 32hz

A 320 amp Apex Alternator

A Pioneer MVH-2300NEX

 

Your head unit is already way superior than any sub 100 dollar outboard EQ out there. The main important thing is running network mode for active crossovers which your head unit can do if you choose network mode after a factory reset. EQ is no where near important as the crossovers when it comes to pro audio. You want to have the mid and tweeter wired directly to their own channels of the amp, throw away the passive crossover completely and leave your rear speakers on head unit power. Absolutely no attention, money or power should be put into the rears at all, completely useless and degrades overall soundstage and sound quality. After a proper crossover point

and speaker level adjustments tune, then you time align the mids and the tweeters. Then you work on the EQ then you repeat everything over and over again till its perfection.

 

 

They will sound fine. Just no midbass. All the PA style 6.5s have no midbass. You should eq no matter what speaker you get.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Completely and utterly false, it depends on the driver's TS specs and overall frequency response and your overall install/door acoustics. I heard some cheap @ss skar FSX 6.5s thump down to 80hz hard in the right setup. No it wont play lower midbass to subsonic range aka 50-80hz that well but it more than gets the job done paired with a sub.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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