Enclosure Design ?s for 4 Blau 8" GBW801, ported @ 35hz

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mestapho

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Thanks in advance for any/all advice.

Getting back into this after yrs. and I saw the thread on here about these cheap 8" drivers that are decent considering the price point and thought it'd be a fun project in the coming month or two.

Model GBW801

Fo (Hz) 46

Re (Ohms) 3.2

Qts 0.406

Qes 0.457

Qms 3.638

Cms (u M/N) 149.822

Vas (Ltr) 13.762

Mms (g) 44.7

Mmd (g) 42.4

No (%) 0.51

SPL (dB-1W/1M) 88

BL (TxM) 9.5

Krm (uOhms) 729.1

Erm 1.024

Kxm (mH) 26.7

Frequency Response (Hz) 45Hz~2KHz

Voice Coil (Diameter) 1.5"

Magnet Weight 32.2oz

Power Rating (RMS) 200Watts

Power Rating (Peak) 400Watts

They'll be going in a 2006 Avalon trunk. My HU is a Pioneer MVH-S600BS. I'm going to run them off of a Pioneer 9601 at 1ohm.

Here's what I've come up with from my research so far, please point out where I'm screwing up and let me know what changes I need to make.

From the thread about these subs on here I saw one of the guys say they modeled well in a .75 ported enclosure. So I'm designing around a 3ft^3 slot ported enclosure.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofers/636437-so-i-just-ordered-4-these.html

I have 39" of width, 16" of height and maybe up to 15" of depth. I need to mock up a cardboard replica and test fit. I need to be able to remove the enclosure for family vacations a few times a year.

Using THIS port area calculator I've come up with needing about 51 in^2.

Based off a height of 14.5" (internal height of enclosure) my port width will be 3.5"(51/14.5+3.5).

Then using WinISD with 3 ft^3 @36 Hz I get a port length of 29".

Using 14.5"x3.5"x29" (.85 ft^3) + port material volume (.10 ft^3) + speaker vol (approx. .02x4) I get 1.03 ft^3 of volume.

So I need a gross volume of 4 ft^3. More algebra. Using my two known max size restraints of int. size 37.5x14.5 and needing 6912ft^3 I get a depth of 12.7"

Then I used THIS site to get a cut sheet.

4qikk5.png


At 36 Hz I calculate the SS filter/HPF should be set at 26-27 Hz.

How does that look? Is 36 Hz in the trunk of an Avalon w/these subs OK? I'm looking for good sounding bass not SPL, as much as I can expect from cheap subs. I listen to everything from Acoustic folky stuff to punk to metal to old school rap and bass music. I plan to run them rear facing. I have a ski pass through, should I center the port facing front to fire through the pass through?

This is mostly just to get me started in the hobby again w/the idea of putting in a couple of nice 10's or 12's if they'll fit, in the future.

Again thanks for taking the time to look.

 
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Round your numbers to even fractions or the decimal equivalent, don't use tenths of an inch. Using an aeroport will make things much easier to design around and the box won't need to be as big. What kind of amp will you be using?

 
Round your numbers to even fractions or the decimal equivalent, don't use tenths of an inch. Using an aeroport will make things much easier to design around and the box won't need to be as big. What kind of amp will you be using?
Thanks. Do the numbers I’m using and coming up with seem reasonable?

I’ll be using a Pioneer GMD 9601.

 
I would do .75-1 cube a piece, probably more like .75. These work decently in a t-line too, there's a build of 8 of them that I designed on here somewhere, JLjunkie's build.

 
yeah 35-36 is where port would put u if u really cfad after all bracing (rear port board peeps forget to subtract that sometimes) and sub disp.. i'd think 45 sq in port should be good but check rear port air on wins..

 
I would do .75-1 cube a piece, probably more like .75. These work decently in a t-line too, there's a build of 8 of them that I designed on here somewhere, JLjunkie's build.
Ok. I think I’ll be limited to .75 cubes each. Any opinions on the calculating/design programs I’ve used?

 
yeah 35-36 is where port would put u if u really cfad after all bracing (rear port board peeps forget to subtract that sometimes) and sub disp.. i'd think 45 sq in port should be good but check rear port air on wins..
How do you check rear port air?

Edit: I think you mean port air velocity. I calculated the port length on WinISD using 51 sq in of port area.

 
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How do you check rear port air?
on wins put in subs, box size, port size and tuning and system power (next higher ohm load amp power to account for box rise so if at 1 ohm use 2 ohm amp power) then click rear port air velocity (it's on the same drop down as spl and transfer function) u want rpav to be below 30 mps or 100feet per second so it don't sound like a fog horn or hurt subs.. if using aero port below 40 mps..

 
on wins put in subs, box size, port size and tuning and system power (next higher ohm load amp power to account for box rise so if at 1 ohm use 2 ohm amp power) then click rear port air velocity (it's on the same drop down as spl and transfer function) u want rpav to be below 30 mps or 100feet per second so it don't sound like a fog horn or hurt subs.. if using aero port below 40 mps..
Thank you! I’m home on Tuesday. I’ll check it then. I assumed the WinISD took that into consideration as part of the port length calculation.

Does 36 Hz seem like a good box/port tune for this application/my goals?

 
I have four of these subs in 3cubes tuned to 35hz. Enclosure is 13" tall, 14" front to back and 40" wide. Using an aero port that is 16" long, if I remember correctly. I've pics on another thread here. I am pleased with the outcome and they sound very good. Running 600 watts to them. I did a quick testing in my truck. Didn't do any tuning or anything, just a quick plug and play. I was going to sale the subs and box after testing but I liked them soo much for what they are, I've decided to keep them.

 
I have four of these subs in 3cubes tuned to 35hz. Enclosure is 13" tall, 14" front to back and 40" wide. Using an aero port that is 16" long, if I remember correctly. I've pics on another thread here. I am pleased with the outcome and they sound very good. Running 600 watts to them. I did a quick testing in my truck. Didn't do any tuning or anything, just a quick plug and play. I was going to sale the subs and box after testing but I liked them soo much for what they are, I've decided to keep them.
Thanks for the feedback! What is your port diameter?

I didn’t plan on using an aero port just to save money as I only plan to use this as a learning experience and use them for maybe 6 mos or so and then going with 2-10” or 12”s of higher quality. Maybe I’ll end up liking them enough to run longer. I’ll have to see.

Another question I have is about aiming the port through my pass through hole. An aero port would be easy to line up. Would there be an advantage to that? Rear firing subs with the port firing into the car through the pass through?

 
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