Jump to content

BroncosNeverDie

Better Speakers for the money?

Recommended Posts

Hello!

 

I just bought a Ford Bronco that has the following sets of speakers: 2x 6.5" speakers in the front doors and 2x 6x9" speakers for the back seat area. No sub. I now want to sound dampen the car, add good amps and replace all the speakers and ad a 12" subwoofer. I am looking at the Rockford Fosgate Punch series for all 3 types of speakers I need. I listen to mostly metal and I'm wondering if this would give me that chest-pounding "punch" I'm looking for wen listening to Exodus going down the highway!

 

Jokes aside, the 6.5" speaker costs about $60 a piece, the 6x9 cost $65 and the 12" sub costs $147. For a total price for all 5 speakers of almost exactly $400 or so (Amazon prices).

 

I'm wondering if anyone recommends any other speakers for the money. I'm looking to spend up to $2000 for the entire setup (sound deadening, amplifiers, audio sources, digital sound processor etc). Like I said, I am looking for something punchy but at the same time at lower volumes "alive", being able to hear every instrument, having a nice balance of it all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I apologize, I was looking at the '96 Ford Bronco spec sheet. My '94 Bronco has 6x8" speakers on the rear seat not 6x9. I apologize and thanks for the help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These are identical to the alpine type X series a few years ago which were made very well and is highly regarded in the Sound Quality community in DIYMA forums.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-alpine-HIEND-28MM-vifa-XT25-hifi-audio-car-tweeter-speaker-4ohm-50W-/222318486214

 

These are solid performing mids with good midbass punch Thats priced per mid

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/

 

These are midbass monsters but need a lot of amplifier power.

https://www.diysoundgroup.com/anarchy7-4ohm.html

 

Best amp in the budget class, nothing comes close right now on the market. does 120 x 4 at 4 ohms through dyno tests, underrated.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pioneer-Gm-d8604-1-200W-Class-D-4-Channel-Amp/26973204?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227024911795&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42978108752&wl4=pla-81470183672&wl5=9031569&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=26973204&wl13=&veh=sem

 

You will want to spend absolutely nothing on the 6x8s in the back and focus all your power on the front or else you'll end up with weak underpowered sounding speakers that will 100% disappoint because when you play the music louder and your amplifier cannot produce enough clean power, you end up with sh*tty/harsh sounding speakers with distortion and speaker break up not to mention waaay weaker midbass. Midbass drivers need A LOT OF power. Leave the stock 6x8s there on head unit power. The 4 channel amp will have two channels powering the tweeter and two powering the midrange.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where in WA are ya?


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500D & 4.500 amps (New amps coming soon)

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good list!

 

I had forgotten about those Silver Flutes, and I’m looking for something good and inexpensive for the doors of my F150 daily driver WT to get by for now, so I just bought these from Madisound for $81 shipped. Can’t beat that if they are as good as people say they are.

 

Thanks Jeff for posting those.

 

Edit: I just installed/swapped that Pioneer D8604 with the 40 wpc Alpine I had in the Ford Truck. This is an awesome amplifier, and the increase in dynamic range due to the more than 60 wpc increase is noticeable. Sounds every bit as good as all the other amplifiers I have or had.


2014 Sienna 2-way active SQ system. SB Acoustics SB29RDCN Tweeters. Focal PS165V mid woofers. Pioneer D9500F 75 watts RMS x 4. Pioneer BHS 5800 HU. AudioControl EQX. 10” Alpine SWS sub in custom ported box tuned to 35 hz on JBL GTX 500.

2014 F-150 XL WT 2-way active budget SQ system. Tang Band 25-302SH 1" tweeters. Dayton Audio ND140-4 mid woofers. Pioneer D8604. JBL Club 5501. JL Audio Twk 88 DSP & FIX 86. Sundown SD3 10” sub ported/ 33Hz 1 cube.

2014 CX5 3-way active SQ system. Pioneer 1330 NIX HU. Dayton AMT tweeters. Celestion AN2775 2-3/4 midrange. NVX XSP65 mid woofers. Pioneer PRS D4200F 75 WPC x 4. Infinity K1000. JL Audio Twk 88 DSP. Sundown SA 12” 2 cube/33Hz.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


  • Similar Content

    • By SherlocksVW
      I have blown one 07CVR102 (10" dual voicecoil @2omh). The system is a Fosgate 401sp to a single comp vr. It was wired, neg to neg, pos to pos, one feed coming from pos and one from neg to amp. This was for about a year, then one day while switching songs it stopped. I got home and pulled sub out of box to discover the wires going to Voice coils were fried. When I Purchased this sub it was Buy One Get One and I have the 2nd still brand new. I want to get the system back up and thumpin, but dont want to blow this one in a year. This amp should not blow this sub, but.......I am stumped. Also is just a pre-fab box from Best-Buy. Any help or suggestions would be great help to getting the system thumpin again. Thanks in advance
    • By maxmar04
      2 12" dc level 3's
      or
      1 12" RF T2D412 (new 2010 model)
       
      looking for a more SPL setup but would like some SQ aswell. dont recommend another sub these r my only options
      i know u will probably say DC bc its more cone area but ive seen vids of these T2's and they look like they slam pretty hard.
    • By MadMax78
      Hello everyone,
       
      I own a Volkswagen T2 bus from 1978 which I mainly use for long overland journeys. In my case space is at a premium, so not room for large woofers etc. I have a pretty decent audio setup running at the moment. It actually sounds nice but I'd like to be able to crank it louder. My current setup is as follows:
       
      Head unit:
      - Pioneer 5100UB
       
      Amp:
      - JBL GT5-A604 (4x 60W rms)
       
      Speakers:
      - Sony XS-HT170SN, component set, 17cm woofer with tweeter. Woofer is mounted low in the front doors, tweeters are on the dash, facing up, to the windshield. Powered by the amp.
      - Sony XS-HT170SN, 6x9 4 way speakers, mounted in a cabinet in the back, facing down. Powered by the head unit.
      - JL Audio 8W3v2 sub, powered by the amp, bridged 160W
       
      Now here is the proposed new setup:
       
      Head unit:
      - Pioneer 5100UB
       
      Amps:
      - JBL GT5-A604 (4x 60W rms)
      - Rockford Fosgate T600-4 (4x 100W rms) with Rockford RFC1 capacitor (already own these components)
       
      Speakers:
      - Rockford Fosgate T1652-S (same mounting positions) 17cm comp set, 100W rms, powered by RF amp
      - Rockford Fosgate T1692 (same mounting positions) 6x9 2 way set, 100W rms, powered by RF amp
      - JL Audio 8W3v2 sub, powered by the JBL amp, bridged 160W
       
       
      Now I have a couple of questions about all this. The first problem we have at the moment is that the 6x9's in the back produce very little low's. I'm not sure what the problem is here, there are mounted in rather small boxes, which are not airtight. Besides that the speakers are angled vertically and actually pump their volume straight into the bed that is below it. If you lay down below the speakers you actually do hear some bass, although it is not nearly as much as the speakers in the front doors put out.
      Can this be fixed by building a proper enclosure for them? Maybe vented? Or is their position just never going to work?
       
      Here is a picture:

       
      Another question I have is about possibly adding a center speaker in the dash. The stock factory radio had a single speaker in the center of the dash, facing up to the windshield. (5.25" mount) I was thinking about mounting a new speaker here and maybe power it from one of the (soon to be) free channels on the JBL amp, this will also allow me to turn it to a low volume since it would only need to fill the center of the soundstage a bit. What do you think about this idea? Worth the effort?
       
      Then I have one last question about the tweeters in the comp set. I have read the best place to position a tweeter is actually as close as possible to the center of the main driver. In the current setup the woofers are low down in the doors and the tweeters are up on the dash.
       

       
      Couldn't find a much better picture, but you can see the windshield there. Now I have also read the winshield can broaden the soundstage so this position might not be completely stupid.
      In the new setup would you keep the tweeters on the dash or move them close to the woofer, on the door? Here is a picture of the current woofer location:
       

      (not actually my own car, but we use the exact same location)
       
      When we mount the tweeter there I'm a bit concerned all the high's will be lost in your legs being very close to them.
       
      Ok, lot's of questions here, I hope you may have some answers and or suggestions for me. Thanks in advance!
×