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Help a newb with amp hitting low voltage cutoff

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Let me start with my apologies, because I know these threads are fairly common, but here’s another. I recently had some upgrades installed in my boat.

Kicker KXMA 800.8 running 6 Wetsound 6.5s and a JL IB10”

Kicker KXMA 1200.1 running 2 12W6v3s @ 1 ohm

Battery is a XS XP3000

Each amplifier has its own dedicated Stinger 4 gauge for power and ground. From the battery to the amp it goes battery-perko switch-Stinger 150A fuse-amp

When I just start getting the volume right to where it’s almost max, the 1200.1 is hitting voltage cutoff, so I took some measurements.

Battery at rest is showing 12.9V

With the key off (ie.... no power to amp) voltage at the amplifier is 12.9V

With everything on and the volume high enough to cut the amp off.....

Battery - 12.4-12.5V

Out of the Perko 12.4-12.5V

Out of the 150A fuse 12.4-12.5V

Into the amplifier 11.2-11.4V

I’d estimate between the fuse and the amplifier is 12’-14’ of 4 gauge and no splices. The installer claims the KXMA1200.1 just isn’t enough for the 12W6s, and Kicker tech support says it’s a wiring install issue. Both the installer and Kicker agree that the 1200.1 having a dedicate 4 gauge with the length of the run, is sufficient. There’s never an issue at lower volumes, or if I turn the gain down on the amp a few clicks, so it’s strictly predicated on the draw of the sub amp. So what’s happening between the fuse and amp, that I’m getting over a 1 volt drop? The installer and the manufacturer will just continue to blame each other, so I’d like a 3rd party opinion so maybe I can actually fix it. Thanks in advance.

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yeah if it's good ofc wire 4g is good that short if it's cca wire i guess that could be it.. the amp is strong enough for the subs (more power mo better as we say) don't think that's the problem.. could be bad fuse holder i haven't had that problem but i'm sure someone has.. 1st thing to check is ground., make sure it's not loose and no paint is under where it's screwed or bolted to.. lets see if @bigblank69 knows he has a boat and he test amps on youtube channel..
 
Well I was checking voltage on the actual wire after the fuse holder, just to rule that out and was getting 12.4-12.5V at high volume. As far as the ground, it’s grounded directly to the battery, because it’s in a boat, so there’s no paint. Thanks for the suggestions.

 
Your boats alternator isnt strong enough for the current draw of the amplifiers. The batteries are discharging faster than the alt can charge them back up.

Is it outboard powered or an i/o?

And btw ignore what gramps says cuz its usually wrong and misguiding.

 
Your boats alternator isnt strong enough for the current draw of the amplifiers. The batteries are discharging faster than the alt can charge them back up.
Is it outboard powered or an i/o?

And btw ignore what gramps says cuz its usually wrong and misguiding.
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350MAG

While I do understand what you’re saying, both XS and Kicker say the XP3000 battery should have no issues at all running a 1600 watt system all on its own, and the battery voltage never drops below 12.4 at the battery. You don’t agree?

 
What is the ohm level the sub amp is running. Are the 12w6's dual 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm? If they are dual 2, you could be running the amp in .50 ohm, and that is too much for the amp to take, dual 4 ohm and you are fine as it is running most likely at 1 ohm. Also, I am surprised that they told you only one battery. In my Crownline 202, I had just the stock sony speakers, with one sub and amp, and I made sure to have two batteries for my system. The speaker was a JL Marine 10 mounted IB, and the amplifier was a JL M1700. I didn't need two batteries, as I was only using one amp, but I bought two batteries for extended playing time.

 
As stated in the OP, the sub amp is at 1 ohm. I did forget to mention that I have 2 batteries. I’d never be on the water with a single. But running it on a single battery, or both, makes no difference.

 
350MAG
While I do understand what you’re saying, both XS and Kicker say the XP3000 battery should have no issues at all running a 1600 watt system all on its own, and the battery voltage never drops below 12.4 at the battery. You don’t agree?
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What size alt does it have? If voltage at the battery is dropping below 12v and the amp is shutting off then you have issues with your electrical system. The engine needs to be spinning at least 2k rpm for the alt to properly charge the batteries. I would bet $ the alt is the problem. When you said the problem goes away when you turn the gain down, thats a dead give away.

 
From what I understand, you are not running an engine and alternator while using the amplifier?

You should be able to easily diagnose the source of voltage loss with a “voltage drop test” across the fuse. If you see the 1 volt drop (this is a lot) in that test on either side of the fuse than you have an issue with the fuse. You can check all your connections like this by putting one lead on one side of the connection and the other lead on the other side of the positive battery cable while it’s under an electrical load.

 
What size alt does it have? If voltage at the battery is dropping below 12v and the amp is shutting off then you have issues with your electrical system. The engine needs to be spinning at least 2k rpm for the alt to properly charge the batteries. I would bet $ the alt is the problem. When you said the problem goes away when you turn the gain down, thats a dead give away.
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As stated earlier I’m NOT seeing a voltage drop at the battery. The battery maintains 12.4-12.5V all the time.

From what I understand, you are not running an engine and alternator while using the amplifier?
You should be able to easily diagnose the source of voltage loss with a “voltage drop test” across the fuse. If you see the 1 volt drop (this is a lot) in that test on either side of the fuse than you have an issue with the fuse. You can check all your connections like this by putting one lead on one side of the connection and the other lead on the other side of the positive battery cable while it’s under an electrical load.
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Also, as explained earlier, I’ve done this and explained that the voltage coming out of the fuse is 12.4-12.5V.

 
As stated earlier I’m NOT seeing a voltage drop at the battery. The battery maintains 12.4-12.5V all the time.

Also, as explained earlier, I’ve done this and explained that the voltage coming out of the fuse is 12.4-12.5V.
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Are you sure, that would be almost 100% voltage drop across that fuse. I don’t think you understand. I’m out.

 
Are you sure, that would be almost 100% voltage drop across that fuse. I don’t think you understand. I’m out.
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Maybe I don’t understand so please explain it to me how the voltage going into the fuse is 12.4-12.5. The voltage coming out of the fuse is 12.4-12.5 and that’s a 100% drop???? I hope where you can see how that would be confusing for someone to understand, because that looks like 0 drop in my math classes. In my work, for something to drop it has to go in one number and come out a lesser number. It’s good to see a forum where people are asking for help, and the ones that apparently know are “out” because one doesn’t understand. Obviously, if I had the answers, I wouldn’t be asking the question.

 
As stated earlier I’m NOT seeing a voltage drop at the battery. The battery maintains 12.4-12.5V all the time.

Also, as explained earlier, I’ve done this and explained that the voltage coming out of the fuse is 12.4-12.5V.
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I meant to say at the amp not the battery. You need to measure the voltage at the amp when it shuts off. If it goes below 12v then you have a problem with your charging system and or wiring. First check all of the connections of your wiring, if those are all good then the problem is your charging system- specifically the alternator not keeping the batteries charged because the current draw from all of the electronics in the boat is too much for the alt to handle. Are both batteries starting batteries or deep cycles or a mix of both? And btw you come off as a little hard headed.

 
I meant to say at the amp not the battery. You need to measure the voltage at the amp when it shuts off. If it goes below 12v then you have a problem with your charging system and or wiring. First check all of the connections of your wiring, if those are all good then the problem is your charging system- specifically the alternator not keeping the batteries charged because the current draw from all of the electronics in the boat is too much for the alt to handle. Are your both batteries starting batteries or deep cycles or a mix of both? And btw you come off as a little hard headed.
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Ahhhh yes. Definitely seeing a drop at the amp. The alternator is a 70 amp. I’m familiar with ohms law, and understand that won’t support the ~1600 watt demand, and I have a guy that can get mine to 180 amps, but it’ll technically lose its coast guard certification. But what in my mind, and I can fully accept that I could be wrong about this, if the battery itself (or the charging system) won’t meet the demand of the system, wouldn’t I see the drop at the battery?

I’m not meaning to be Hard headed but all the questions were answered in my first post. Battery voltage at every point of the wiring AND...... lthe battery type. Again They are XS XP3000 group 31 AGM batteries. XS claims they can run a 3000 watt system as a stand alone.....battery power only. They should handle my 1600 just fine.

 
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